1949 Ford bobber build

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Those look great.

I gotta learn the whole paint thing yet. And body filler. On my 52 Dodge I used marine grade filler for the first layer. I think it is called Marglass. It had long fibre glass and was water proof. So any pin holes un the steel got sealed. It worked great. Hard as hell, but added structural support.

I might look for it again. My Elgin has pin holes and I want a good seal.
 
I came home today all ready to,Finnish welding my filler strip in. But I got to spend 2 1/2 hors talking to my daughter. Much better:)
 
Todays progress

I got the filler strip all welded in. ground it all down and did a bunch of hammer and dolly work to get it all lined up. I just need to finnish the two relief cuts on the top of the wind shield. A little more welding inside the drip rail area and on the drivers side B-Pillar. then Im onto the doors:)

Its hard to get pictures of the shiny metal
 

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Thanks for all your help Mike. You and Torchie really helped a lot with your build threads and answering all my questions. Not cutting the roof into four makes it a lot easier to put back together and maintain shape.

I took those girders off and will save for next time. They worked pretty well. Next time I might tack the doors shut rather than use bracing across the doors. The back door frame is able to twist or collapse a little and the door would work better. Especially if the rear inside is tacked as well.

Not really looking forward to primer and filler. :( not liking dust. My garage is covered in grinding dust again. I gotta rig a box fan and a furnace filter. Just to clean the air while working.
 
Evenrude??? :D.....those covers do look nice.....almost look too pretty...[cl

1957 Johnson Javelins hoods Sarge..

gold03. I've seen alot of these trucks chopped and your roof has turned out the best. Looks really, really good. Makes me want to get another roof and start over on mine.[;)

I know what you mean about the dust. That is part of the reason I haven't done much with mine. Kinda hard to varnish a boat and paint motors with grinding dust all over them.:eek:

Try using a sureform rasp when you do your bodywork. Use it just as the filler is hardening up and it will cut it like wood. Nice shavings and no dust. Get it close and then sand.
Torchie.
 
You have the touch Gold03, that is dang fine tin bashing. You won't need much body filler, and that little thin layer of mud's a good thing, it will finish the truck even perfecter.
Here's an idea that I used on my body reveal line under the back window. I stuck double thickness of duct tape on the reveal, on an unmolested part and then mixed up a handful of body filler and put it on top over the tape and let it dry. When it was dry, I pried it off the reveal and ripped off the duct tape, and I had a block that was the same shape as my reveal. It worked to apply some new body filler, evenly, to the length of the reveal, then I wiped the block clean of any new body filler. When the body filler on the body was almost dry I stuck some sticky back sand paper in the curves of my shaped block and sanded my brains out.-----I mean sanded the back of my truck.
Keep on tinkering.
 
Goldo, I found my body filler blocks in the shop and took some pictures of them so you wouldn't think of me as a hollow braggart. [What's the opposite of a hollow braggart; a full looking, well rounded braggart?:eek:] Anyhow, on a '36 there are two reveal lines and so I made two blocks. Here they are.
 

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I picked up a used set of spark arrestors that I intend to install int he end of my Laker style headers. I'll post pictures in a day or so. They need cleaning and a little polish.

What is the difference between polish your car, and Polish is a nationality? Same spelling? I'm confused[S
 
Hey Torchie, I'm running a 52 Merc flathead. I'm looking at speedways laker kit. You gotta weld it yourself. But it should be easier to make it fit right where I need it. I want them to fill the void at the boy you front of the cab.

My problem is the shipping to Canada is as much as the headers. My daughter lives in Lincoln NB and I'm hoping she will drive home this year.:)
 
Before I decided to go the way I am I looked at those kits as well. I had some concerns using them on my build. One was the level of the frame rails inconjunction to the exhaust ports and the other was the width of the cab at the fire wall. And then of course there is the ever present steering box location issue.
In my case I decided to go with Reds Headers and run the exhaust under the truck since I am going full fendered.
With your skills and ingenuity you should have no problems making the headers fit.
Take a look at having your daughter get the kits and her shipping them to you. It will most likely be cheaper as all of these company's are charging big bucks to ship these days. She may be able to use USPS which is usually the cheapest way to send stuff.(Disclaimer) Of course who knows about Canada;)
Torchie.
 
The header flange will need the tubing welded on in such a way that it goes up over the frame. I think I can make it work. Because of the suicide axle mount I'm using a Vega box, and cross steer, so the pipe will miss the steering box.

You are right about USPS. Speedway ships UPS, and they double the cost of anything they ship to Canada. It has cost $30.00 for UPS to tell me it's not going to cost me any duty.[S
 
Got a little welding done on the filler strip area of the door frame today. Not to exciting. No pictures.

I did burn a big hole in the side of the truck with the MIG welder.

****.:(
 
How Big!!???

Not sure but got this shot from an anonymous email....
 

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