1951 Ford F1

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
DMW; That truck looks great; When you gonna cut that top. I'm about to start the chop on my 50f1. Got the gas tank and the gas lines run this week. Been on vacation all week. Wanted to do the top but thought it would be easier to do the other before the cab was set back on. We need more PICS. (chop that top):D:D

Thanks Rusty,

I'm gonna Chop it as soon as I get the floor back in. I cut it all out this morning to channel it. I will make it so it I will be able to unbolt it to remove the body. Would have done more but ran out of Argon/CO2. Boy, I was looking at the firewall and it has about 100 holes in it. Thats gonna take forever to fill all of those.
 
C'mon DMW56, You can't tell everybody about a channel job and then leave us hanging on the pics :D. Just kidding, can't wait to see it.
 
I have the same problem with my firewall, I bought a 4x4 sheet of 14 gauge to make me a new one but now I think it may be to thin, not sure but I think I should have waited for them to get in some 16 gauge. Have fun with all those holes. I filled about 25 and got tired, still have about 50 more.:mad::mad:
 
Finally got some picture of the floor frame at least what I've done so far.
Sorry, its kind of hard to see because of the added bracing. I'm using 1.25" square tubing and will put some type of webbing on the frame rails to keep it from squeeking. I still need to do the center section for the transmission and drive shaft. I will also add another cross brace between the frame rails with diagonal bracing and drive shaft hoop.

DSC_0001-5.jpg


DSC_0004-5.jpg


DSC_0002-4.jpg


DSC_0003-4.jpg
 
The body sits about 3" lower than the original floor 7" high in the back and 6" in the front. I used a scale we all can understand. It sure was tasty too.

DSC_0006-4.jpg


I used the stock front mounting point. I just made simple bracket and will bolt the body to it. I still need to make a couple for the rear.

DSC_0008-3.jpg


DSC_0011-1.jpg
 
I got some used 235R78X15 tires for free and ground some whitewalls. They are different brands but the price was right. The one on the passenger side was some Chineese tire and the white strip under the black wasn't all that even but it will work for now. The 15 X 8 deep dish Cragar SS wheels I've had for 25+ years and have never used. I stole them....I mean I borrowed them from my ex-brother in law. He probably owed me for something anyway! :rolleyes:

DSC_0007-3.jpg


DSC_0012-1.jpg


I will paint the front wheels orange I haven't done this side front tire yet. You can kinda see the other side.

DSC_0009-1.jpg


Here is the aluminum radiator I got from Northern Radiator. Its 16" wide and 24-25" high. My grill is 17.5" wide and 22" high so it will fit right in after making some brackets and a bottom sill for the radiator to sit on. Cost $320 plus $20 shipping.

DSC_0010-1.jpg
 
It really looks great! So the level in the bottle is where the cab sits? Shouldn't it get lower as the night goes on?

You will be driving it in no time.
 
Did some more work this week on the truck. I finished the floor frame and I was going to start on the sheet metal but the bracing was in the way so I'll wait until after the chop. :cool:

001.jpg


002.jpg
 
I wanted to go with tube shocks over friction type. So I made a bracket to mount the shocks. The lower mount is attached to the spring hanger. It took almost all day to drill the holes! :eek:

005.jpg


006.jpg


008.jpg
 
I also mounted the grille and made a lower brace/core support for the radiator to sit on. I will place it on rubber to protected it from vibrations. I will still need to make some kind of brackets to attach the sides to the grille shell and some support rods from the grille to the firewall.

The radiator is aluminum with 2-1" cores 16" wide and 26" high. Yes, it doesn't have a filler cap yet.

009.jpg


010.jpg
 
I wanted to go rear steer but I couldn't get a rear steer steering arm to work right. The radiator and shocks are in the way. I can't find one low or long enough to clear everything. So I might have to go front steer.

I also wanted to use the wheels and tires I got on my Chevelle. If I go front steer the steering arm will not work, it hits the wheel. I had a set of old 14 X 8 Cragar SS deep dish that I had on the rear of my AMX years ago and tried those on the front. The front steer arms will work with those wheels but I don't know if I like the width...kind of wide. But I don't want to go buy another pair of wheels. But I might have to and then I can use the tires I had on my Chevelle. I'm going to a swap meet tomorrow may be I can find a cheap set that will work.

004.jpg


007.jpg


What do do think? Remember Posi-A-Traction tires? Talk about the 70's
011.jpg


I'm going to put the battery up front on this side since there isn't anything on this side anyway. Nice and close to the starter.
012.jpg
 
Everything looks real nice DMW. The time spent drilling the holes was worth it I think. I see your corner magnet loads up with metal fragmests like mine does. They usually end up stuck in my fingers.
 
I went to a swap meet today and pick up some stuff and sold some stuff. The good part is a sold more than I spent . Yaa :D

I got some stuff for the rat truck. I bought a pair of 14 x6 reverse 5 spoke Rocket wheels (like a Cragar SS) for $5 each for the front, a pair of motorcycle turn signal lights $10, a speedometer $15, an Autometer oil pressure, temp and voltometer gauge for $20. I didn't find a pair of taillights I liked.
 
More progress

Got some more done today. I made up a list of things needed done and got 5 1/2 done. List is still long.

Made some brackets for the headlights and got them mounted with the motorcycle turn signals I got at the swap meet last week.

001-1.jpg


002-1.jpg


I made brackets to bolt the radiator to the grille.

003-1.jpg


Mounted the battery box to the firewall and made some grille support rods out of rebar I had lying around.

004-1.jpg
 
Started on the headers for the 6. I used the flanges off some cheap headers and cut off the pipes and reused them for the bends and straight sections. I got the front half done. If they are too loud I can get some 1 1/2" baffles for motorcycle pipes to put in them or I can add tips like zoomies or something.

006-1.jpg


007-1.jpg


These are the wheels I got at the swap meet. $5 each. They have a reverse offset so they will clear the front steer steering arm. I think they are Rocket wheels they don't say anywhere on them. The spokes have a peak on the face not smooth lke a Cragar.

008-1.jpg


Front rotors should get lots of cool air to them!

009-1.jpg
 

Latest posts

Back
Top