Snake Farm
Ol school snake charmer!
Love those Ranch Wagons! Awesome build you have going. [cl
1955 Ranch Wagon Cruiser
- Thread starter DJ3100
- Start date
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klink
Well-known member
Nice build. I've used some Welder's Series stuff too found it to be a good choice. I've had them cut some "custom" parts for me as well, very reasonable and the turn around was quick.
We all know how it will shake out.
Yep... love that color scheme... gonna look nice!!! [ddd[ddd[ddd
BoB
Bamamav
Well-known member
Great job! Looks like it's gonna make a nice cruiser. [cl
DJ3100
Well-known member
Motor
The take out motor came tied (with seat belts) down to a pallet. It included the wiring harness, pcm (power train control module), exhaust manifolds, and accessories - ps, ac, and alternator. It's a 2006, 5.3 Chevy truck motor, designated LM7. Basically, it is a cast iron LS block with aluminum heads.
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It sat on this cart for a while which allowed me to bolt up the trans. Nice having a cast oil pan with a flat bottom to set the thing on.
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With the intake removed and lifting plate installed and a long boom for the forklift, the engine and trans got stuffed in the frame.
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Lifting plate
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It was immediately apparent the exhaust manifolds were going to run into the X member (actually it's a V member). They're ugly any how.
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The oil pan was lower than the cross member. The truck oil pan is almost 9" deep.
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The truck intake is very tall, but I have a lot of room, so I'm pretty sure it will work. The truck intake flows about as well as any that are available for less than $1500.
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The take out motor came tied (with seat belts) down to a pallet. It included the wiring harness, pcm (power train control module), exhaust manifolds, and accessories - ps, ac, and alternator. It's a 2006, 5.3 Chevy truck motor, designated LM7. Basically, it is a cast iron LS block with aluminum heads.
It sat on this cart for a while which allowed me to bolt up the trans. Nice having a cast oil pan with a flat bottom to set the thing on.
With the intake removed and lifting plate installed and a long boom for the forklift, the engine and trans got stuffed in the frame.
Lifting plate
It was immediately apparent the exhaust manifolds were going to run into the X member (actually it's a V member). They're ugly any how.
The oil pan was lower than the cross member. The truck oil pan is almost 9" deep.
The truck intake is very tall, but I have a lot of room, so I'm pretty sure it will work. The truck intake flows about as well as any that are available for less than $1500.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Motor mounts
The original Ford transmission cross member turned out to be in the correct location for the new transmission mount.
I looked at lots of options for motor mounts. The stock LS Camaro mounts are $58 each. Vettes even more and neither would be a straight bolt in. Eventually I decided to go this route. The urethane bushings and sleeves were $18 total.
[URL=http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/DJ3100/media/1955%20Ranch%20Wagon/engine%20mock%20up/motormounts1.jpg.html]
[IMG]http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af211/DJ3100/1955%20Ranch%20Wagon/engine%20mock%20up/motormounts1.jpg[/URL][/IMG]
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I had to run a hand reamer through the tube after I welded it. In case you're wondering, I do have a ton of 1/4" plate.
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Installed
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The original Ford transmission cross member turned out to be in the correct location for the new transmission mount.
I looked at lots of options for motor mounts. The stock LS Camaro mounts are $58 each. Vettes even more and neither would be a straight bolt in. Eventually I decided to go this route. The urethane bushings and sleeves were $18 total.
[URL=http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/DJ3100/media/1955%20Ranch%20Wagon/engine%20mock%20up/motormounts1.jpg.html]
[IMG]http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af211/DJ3100/1955%20Ranch%20Wagon/engine%20mock%20up/motormounts1.jpg[/URL][/IMG]
I had to run a hand reamer through the tube after I welded it. In case you're wondering, I do have a ton of 1/4" plate.
Installed
skull
''SARCASM: just one of his many talents.''
motor
nice mounts.
Later
nice mounts.
Later
Dirtyrat
Got Fins?
I'm digging this build, I like the modern power plants in the older stuff.
Tuned in: [P[P[P
Tuned in: [P[P[P
DJ3100
Well-known member
DR, So far I'm impressed with the LM7. The engine is light and very strong. While it was on the stand I cleaned it up and painted it (black). It was the cleanest engine I have ever worked on.
Mostly I like the serpentine belt system - everything is strong and bullet proof. I spent $1500 on a major brand serpentine belt system for the 3100's 350, had major issues getting it in and it is marginal when it's done.
I did have to work on the ac bracket to get it to clear the power rack only to find out from Vintage Air that the Denso compressor would not be as efficient as the Sandon that they designed their system around.
I ended up getting a Vintage Air LS compressor mount and a Sandon compressor. The VA mount came with the tensioner and belt. It keeps the compressor in the same location, which worked great in this application. The welding on the bracket was beautiful. I still had to modify it to clear the rack
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Mostly I like the serpentine belt system - everything is strong and bullet proof. I spent $1500 on a major brand serpentine belt system for the 3100's 350, had major issues getting it in and it is marginal when it's done.
I did have to work on the ac bracket to get it to clear the power rack only to find out from Vintage Air that the Denso compressor would not be as efficient as the Sandon that they designed their system around.
I ended up getting a Vintage Air LS compressor mount and a Sandon compressor. The VA mount came with the tensioner and belt. It keeps the compressor in the same location, which worked great in this application. The welding on the bracket was beautiful. I still had to modify it to clear the rack
DJ3100
Well-known member
Oil pan
The truck oil pan hung below the cross member and would have been the lowest part on the vehicle. I ordered a GM 2000 Camaro oil pan kit. It came with gasket, bolts, windage tray, pick-up tube, dipstick tube, and dipstick for about $300.
The oil pan is cast and was obviously cast after the dies were well worn. I spent a couple hours deburring it so I wouldn't get cut every time I got near it.
It fits in the frame like it was designed to go there.
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Mechanical fans came on some trucks in '06, so there is a threaded boss on the water pump pulley. I got the clutch at O'Reilly's and the AC Delco fan from Amazon.
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It still leaves over 5" to the radiator support.
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The truck oil pan hung below the cross member and would have been the lowest part on the vehicle. I ordered a GM 2000 Camaro oil pan kit. It came with gasket, bolts, windage tray, pick-up tube, dipstick tube, and dipstick for about $300.
The oil pan is cast and was obviously cast after the dies were well worn. I spent a couple hours deburring it so I wouldn't get cut every time I got near it.
It fits in the frame like it was designed to go there.
Mechanical fans came on some trucks in '06, so there is a threaded boss on the water pump pulley. I got the clutch at O'Reilly's and the AC Delco fan from Amazon.
It still leaves over 5" to the radiator support.
DJ3100
Well-known member
I was able to use the Ford trans cross member. Some one had butchered it with a torch, so it required some repair. The trans x member ties in at an angle and is not actually straight. It's a bear to get the bolts in.
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DJ3100
Well-known member
Headers
I looked hard at all the possibilities for headers. I kept obsessing over long tube headers even though they probably won't add much power or torque, I just kept thinking they'd be cool.
All of the aftermarket long tube headers and even the mid tube were going to need modification because of the V shaped frame braces.
I bought a universal header kit (it turned out to be designed for SBC's) and flanges from Jegs. The flanges are 3/8" and really nice. The tubes are 16 ga.
Didn't get many pics along the way.
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Someone suggested that brazing the inside of the tube to flange joint would dissipate the heat. So I used silicon bronze rod with the TIG to lay in the beads. The photo shows before they were smoothed and polished.
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I'm happy with the result.
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The collectors had to be angled to clear the frame.
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I looked hard at all the possibilities for headers. I kept obsessing over long tube headers even though they probably won't add much power or torque, I just kept thinking they'd be cool.
All of the aftermarket long tube headers and even the mid tube were going to need modification because of the V shaped frame braces.
I bought a universal header kit (it turned out to be designed for SBC's) and flanges from Jegs. The flanges are 3/8" and really nice. The tubes are 16 ga.
Didn't get many pics along the way.
Someone suggested that brazing the inside of the tube to flange joint would dissipate the heat. So I used silicon bronze rod with the TIG to lay in the beads. The photo shows before they were smoothed and polished.
I'm happy with the result.
The collectors had to be angled to clear the frame.
skull
''SARCASM: just one of his many talents.''
W0W
this build just keeps gettin' better[P
Later
this build just keeps gettin' better[P
Later
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soltz
The Rat Captain
What Skull said, looking good. I like the way you think [cl
BlueNorther
Well-known member
the flange welding I was taught from a header builder, was to weld the inside of the flange opening to the tube using steel or stainless rod (matching header material). and then to braze the outside of the joint with acetylene and bronze rod.
their idea was this would be like adding an O-ring seal to the gasket face, helping sealing, and the bronze would form a fillet to the other side, reinforcing the joint against vibration.
their idea was this would be like adding an O-ring seal to the gasket face, helping sealing, and the bronze would form a fillet to the other side, reinforcing the joint against vibration.
forbigpicture
Please stand by.......
my, my , my........can't wait to see what's next
DJ3100
Well-known member
I can see the reasoning there. Thanks for the input.
I guess I did the opposite. I welded the outside and brazed the inside. I was concerned I would have trouble welding the end of the 16 ga tube to the 3/8" thick flange without the 16ga burning away before I worked up a puddle in the flange. And I liked the theory that brass is a better heat conductor than steel, even though I don't really think it matters.
I don't acetylene braze anymore. TIGing silicon bronze is clean and doesn't care if the base metal melts or not - you can use it like a welding rod or like a brazing rod. No flux is required.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Quarter panel Nightmare
When I first got the car, there were some obvious issues around the wheel wells. Easy patch panels or so I thought.
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The metal behind the wheel opening is mostly chicken wire and bondo. The lower 3" of the inner panels is missing - rusted out
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While working on the rockers I found that the inner rockers went all the way to the wheel tub and they were mostly gone as was the outer metal in front of the wheel. I needed access to the floor and the body mount, so....
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When I first got the car, there were some obvious issues around the wheel wells. Easy patch panels or so I thought.
The metal behind the wheel opening is mostly chicken wire and bondo. The lower 3" of the inner panels is missing - rusted out
While working on the rockers I found that the inner rockers went all the way to the wheel tub and they were mostly gone as was the outer metal in front of the wheel. I needed access to the floor and the body mount, so....
DJ3100
Well-known member
Contour gauges
At this point the need for new quarters is obvious. They only make the quarters from the beltline down and have a front (door jamb to center of fender) and rear. These are for '55 and '56 years, all models. I got them from EMS and they were really nice.
The quarters came with a flange at the top so all you have to do is make the cut, punch some weld through holes, screw the panel in place and weld it up. But I wanted to do it the "right " way and cut the flange off so I could do a butt joint - a choice I have spent moths regretting.
Did I mention how bad I am at body work?
Before I cut any more I decided to map the territory. These photos were taken later, but here's what I did. The side was straight to the center of the wheel opening, then tapered in. I made reference lines on both sides and made contour gauges for each line plus one for the front section.
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At this point the need for new quarters is obvious. They only make the quarters from the beltline down and have a front (door jamb to center of fender) and rear. These are for '55 and '56 years, all models. I got them from EMS and they were really nice.
The quarters came with a flange at the top so all you have to do is make the cut, punch some weld through holes, screw the panel in place and weld it up. But I wanted to do it the "right " way and cut the flange off so I could do a butt joint - a choice I have spent moths regretting.
Did I mention how bad I am at body work?
Before I cut any more I decided to map the territory. These photos were taken later, but here's what I did. The side was straight to the center of the wheel opening, then tapered in. I made reference lines on both sides and made contour gauges for each line plus one for the front section.
Flipper_1938
He recycles the right way
Even though Ford outsold Chevy during that period, there is a reason there are more Chevies still around. The Fords had really bad rust issues (most got scrapped shortly after they were paid off according to my dad). I'm glad you are doing what it takes to same this one. It is going to be a really neat car!!!
