8literbeater
Well-known member
Aha! I knew I must have been missing something. That might be really tough to find.
1955 Ranch Wagon Cruiser
- Thread starter DJ3100
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DJ3100
Well-known member
Here's a couple things I have been working on.
The driver's side corner of the front valance needed to be rebuilt and a new piece made.
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The problem here is that the fender should line up with the style line on the valance. When I bring it out to match the gap in the leading edge of the hood opens.
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The seat belt installation. The coat hook used to be in this location. I riveted a 3/16" thick x 3" square plate with a 1/2" nut behind the double layer sheet metal.
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Finished
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I'll have to open up the top hole and locate the hole for the lower mount in the interior panel.
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The driver's side corner of the front valance needed to be rebuilt and a new piece made.
The problem here is that the fender should line up with the style line on the valance. When I bring it out to match the gap in the leading edge of the hood opens.
The seat belt installation. The coat hook used to be in this location. I riveted a 3/16" thick x 3" square plate with a 1/2" nut behind the double layer sheet metal.
Finished
I'll have to open up the top hole and locate the hole for the lower mount in the interior panel.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Plumber's putty for cars?
This stuff has come in very handy for reassembling the trim. I would like to keep as much water out as possible and this is the recommended stuff. I have never run into it before. It is very similar to duct seal that the electricians use, and plumber's putty. Some people call it dum-dum. It never hardens, but it gets quite sticky aster it has been on for a couple days. Initially, it's pretty easy to get off or move around. I thought the 1950's packaging was strange.
These pics were right side up on my monitor so I turned them over and re-loaded them. Both ways still come out upside down on this post, sorry.
This stuff has come in very handy for reassembling the trim. I would like to keep as much water out as possible and this is the recommended stuff. I have never run into it before. It is very similar to duct seal that the electricians use, and plumber's putty. Some people call it dum-dum. It never hardens, but it gets quite sticky aster it has been on for a couple days. Initially, it's pretty easy to get off or move around. I thought the 1950's packaging was strange.
These pics were right side up on my monitor so I turned them over and re-loaded them. Both ways still come out upside down on this post, sorry.
Attachments
Old Iron
Well-known member
[P
smallfoot
He's rockin' the "Nuttin Special"!
That stuff is good! We had our own version in the phone company to water proof underground cable splices....
forbigpicture
Please stand by.......
Nice work as usual DJ, we used to call it window butyl tape.....good stuff
I-R-POPS
''Rusty Mopar Slacker''
It's amazing how much time all the little crap takes isn't it? Don't weaken brother, you're closing in on it. And it's looking great!!!!
DJ3100
Well-known member
Yes it is. It took me all day yesterday to get the inner panels to fit around the seat belt mounts. And I'm still not done because I didn't have the correct length hardware.
I did spend a while trying to move the lower mount to the floor, but there is just no structure that had access on both sides. Decided I like it mounted just below the window, since that seems to be the only choice.
And then, I still have 20+ feet of stainless trim to straighten and fix. I don't know if amazing would be the word for that - more like PIA.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Polishing glass
Well, after 20 + hours I have fewer scratches in the back glass than I had before. Actually, when the light is just right, it looks pretty good.
The kit I got had course, medium, and fine sanding discs; polish and buffing pads. The course worked really well at removing the deep scratches and the medium worked well removing those scratches. But the fine tended to load up and make more deep scratches. The polish only removes the fine scratches and won't touch anything that was missed.
At any rate, it will work for the rear window, but I would not want it on the windshield.
Well, after 20 + hours I have fewer scratches in the back glass than I had before. Actually, when the light is just right, it looks pretty good.
The kit I got had course, medium, and fine sanding discs; polish and buffing pads. The course worked really well at removing the deep scratches and the medium worked well removing those scratches. But the fine tended to load up and make more deep scratches. The polish only removes the fine scratches and won't touch anything that was missed.
At any rate, it will work for the rear window, but I would not want it on the windshield.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Polishing stainless trim
Went to Goodguys on Friday. I was tuned in to the stainless trim. Most of the pro built, high dollar, check book cars had stainless trim that had not been sanded, straightened or polished. The interesting thing is you really have to look to see that it isn't perfect or even good.
Mine will be better than most.
Went to Goodguys on Friday. I was tuned in to the stainless trim. Most of the pro built, high dollar, check book cars had stainless trim that had not been sanded, straightened or polished. The interesting thing is you really have to look to see that it isn't perfect or even good.
Mine will be better than most.
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Perfectionism: A curse or a blessing???
Fantastic long roof either way you look at it.
Fantastic long roof either way you look at it.
soltz
The Rat Captain
Of course it will [cl
05snopro440
Well-known member
I've found that a lot of the big shops don't pay attention to the stainless. The fact that you have will make your car stand out even more!
DJ3100
Well-known member
Here's couple pics of the stainless piece I have been working on. The area where the red reflection is the worst. Looking at the reflections shows some of the waves and ripples. In some light it looks very obvious; other times it doesn't show at all.
The worst ripples are where the spear was bent the most. Straightening it left extra material that needs to shrink to get back to flat. Any kind of hammer and dolly work just stretches it more. Basically these are mini oil cans.
At any rate, that's how it's going to stay unless anyone has any brilliant ideas to make it better.
The worst ripples are where the spear was bent the most. Straightening it left extra material that needs to shrink to get back to flat. Any kind of hammer and dolly work just stretches it more. Basically these are mini oil cans.
At any rate, that's how it's going to stay unless anyone has any brilliant ideas to make it better.
Attachments
forbigpicture
Please stand by.......
Old Iron
Well-known member
I have no clue how the people that straighten stainless for a living make it look new.
I had one piece on my wife's 56 Chevy that I left and only polished it. It always bugged me but, others didn't pay much attention to it.
I had one piece on my wife's 56 Chevy that I left and only polished it. It always bugged me but, others didn't pay much attention to it.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Something went well yesterday....
Weatherstrip sometimes comes with staples to attach it. I have never used the staples, but decided to give it a try this time.
I measured, then drilled 2 .062" holes in the modified vise grips to make a drill guide. The sample worked great.
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The piece I'm installing is the rear bumper stone guard. I applied weatherstrip adhesive to both sides.
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Taped, measured and drilled the holes through the metal and rubber.
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Clinching the ends with a tiny hammer and a dolly was a little difficult because of the limited space. The same vise grips finished the clinch nicely.
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Weatherstrip sometimes comes with staples to attach it. I have never used the staples, but decided to give it a try this time.
I measured, then drilled 2 .062" holes in the modified vise grips to make a drill guide. The sample worked great.
The piece I'm installing is the rear bumper stone guard. I applied weatherstrip adhesive to both sides.
Taped, measured and drilled the holes through the metal and rubber.
Clinching the ends with a tiny hammer and a dolly was a little difficult because of the limited space. The same vise grips finished the clinch nicely.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Progress
Got the bumper on.
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The hardest part was the exhaust deflectors. The opening was filled by the exhaust tips, so a little belt sanding was required to get them both to fit.
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Got the bumper on.
The hardest part was the exhaust deflectors. The opening was filled by the exhaust tips, so a little belt sanding was required to get them both to fit.
I-R-POPS
''Rusty Mopar Slacker''
SWEEEEEET!!!!! I'm feeling a little paint envious.
Really nice job on the bumper. Carry on.
Really nice job on the bumper. Carry on.
DJ3100
Well-known member
This is the last piece of stainless trim (and the last stainless trim post, I hope). It was in good shape except for this dent. The tools I used for the dents are shown. I used a piece of rubber or hard plastic as a backer. Many of the small dents can be pushed out without a hammer - just push on the tool.
The dent pushed out to as level as possible; then sanded with 150 grit on an aluminum sanding block to get it level. Low spots are pushed some more. 220, 320, and 400 grit wet follow. It takes about 200 strokes to completely eliminate the previous grit's scratches. A 3M EXL light deburring wheel will take out the 400 grit scratches and leave a finish as shown in the second pic. That is followed by a sewn polishing wheel with emery and then a second wheel with the green stainless compound.
I still don't have a good method for straightening a bent piece.
And I still don't know why these pics are upside down.
The dent pushed out to as level as possible; then sanded with 150 grit on an aluminum sanding block to get it level. Low spots are pushed some more. 220, 320, and 400 grit wet follow. It takes about 200 strokes to completely eliminate the previous grit's scratches. A 3M EXL light deburring wheel will take out the 400 grit scratches and leave a finish as shown in the second pic. That is followed by a sewn polishing wheel with emery and then a second wheel with the green stainless compound.
I still don't have a good method for straightening a bent piece.
And I still don't know why these pics are upside down.
