I-R-POPS
''Rusty Mopar Slacker''
NICE! I think you should get the "I did it my way not the easy way" trophy.
Really NICE!
Stay after it.
Really NICE!
Stay after it.
1955 Ranch Wagon Cruiser
- Thread starter DJ3100
- Start date
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DJ3100
Well-known member
Thanks, Pops. It sure hasn't been easy. I just looked back through all the photos I have and remembered how much fun I was having when I was building up the frame and how good it felt to finish a project. Now I'm not having much fun and nothing seems to finish.
But, I'm in until the end, even if it takes another year.
Got my wheels and tires this morning. Decided it was time to install the front springs. This is what I found on the lower ball joint boot.
So, I went to buy boots for a Mustang II. No one has boots - NAPA, O'Reilly's, etc. It turns out the ball joint is actually for a Chrysler, but the Moog boot that fits the K772 ball joint doesn't fit because the sleeve on the tubular A-arms sticks up too high. Called Energy Suspension and the tech said he knew the problem and they didn't make them. Speedway is the only place I could find them and they are the same ones I have that didn't last 2 years of not being cycled.
The Speedway replacements will be here Friday.
You might find the new ones last fine. I've found sometimes rubber parts fall to bits just from being in an environment where paint is being sprayed around. I'd guess the solvent gets into things as it is evaporating out of the paint.
I destroyed all the rubber parts on my girlfriend's bicycle by having it leaning up in the corner of the shed where I sprayed a rockcrawler chassis a few years back
Old Iron
Well-known member
I get the same thoughts at times too.
Anyone can start a project but very few finish them
Yours is looking great [cl [P
DJ3100
Well-known member
You might find the new ones last fine. I've found sometimes rubber parts fall to bits just from being in an environment where paint is being sprayed around. I'd guess the solvent gets into things as it is evaporating out of the paint.
I destroyed all the rubber parts on my girlfriend's bicycle by having it leaning up in the corner of the shed where I sprayed a rockcrawler chassis a few years back
Good information, thanks. It has been exposed to plenty of paint solvents.
Mine had no grease yet - perhaps the grease somehow keeps the outside of the boot from drying out.
8literbeater
Well-known member
That sucks, and doesn't make sense. Why wouldn't Energy Suspension make a boot for one of the most popular ball joints? Dang it. When you get the new replacements, check them against this chart:
https://www.suspension.com/bjb.htm
I'm thinking the 13009 might be the one. Possibly 13014 or 13025.
I think you should be able to find a poly replacement. What about calling Moog? I've seen some ball joints come with a poly boot now out of the box. Did you try Daystar? They're right here in Phoenix, and they make all the same type of stuff that Energy Suspension makes. http://www.daystarweb.com/content.php?id=5
Rubber boots have been doing fine for the past 70 years or so, since we stopped using leather, but the polyurethane sure is better.
DJ3100
Well-known member
From what I can determine the correct Moog boot won't fit because the sleeve that the ball joint screws into covers the diameter it is supposed to fit over. These are tubular A-Arms from Speedway - maybe someone else does it differently. I think only Speedway makes the boot that fits. Well, they probably have it made in China. So, even though good rubber boots often last for 15 years, these didn't.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Customer service at Speedway sent me some boots that they removed from new A arms at no charge. They fit. So, now I have the driver's side done and hope to get the spring and new boots on the passenger side this morning.
I had an issue with the back wheels not having enough offset. Long story, but basically it might have been better to have bought the $400 custom wheels with the offset I knew would work instead of the less expensive wheels with the offset the might have (but didn't ) worked. I pulled the diff and had it narrowed 1 1/4" on each side.
I put all the wheels and tires on and put it on the ground - everything looks good.
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I had an issue with the back wheels not having enough offset. Long story, but basically it might have been better to have bought the $400 custom wheels with the offset I knew would work instead of the less expensive wheels with the offset the might have (but didn't ) worked. I pulled the diff and had it narrowed 1 1/4" on each side.
I put all the wheels and tires on and put it on the ground - everything looks good.
forbigpicture
Please stand by.......
Looks good is right!!!!
earthman
Fascinated by rolling objects!
Beauty!
I liked the '51 lowered in the back but same thing. Take the shackles apart and jack the body up about a foot and a half to change a tire.
I liked the '51 lowered in the back but same thing. Take the shackles apart and jack the body up about a foot and a half to change a tire.
DJ3100
Well-known member
That's why I decided not to carry a spare. I have AAA and a cell phone.
I guess that's why they used to supply bumper jacks in the '50's.
DJ3100
Well-known member
This morning I got the front suspension together, shocks, springs, brake lines and the proper new ball joint boots. Hopefully the springs will settle at least an inch.
Had some other things I wanted to get done, but at 11:00 the thermometer where the car is was approaching 110 deg. (supposed to be 115 today). Any how, I wimped out.
Had some other things I wanted to get done, but at 11:00 the thermometer where the car is was approaching 110 deg. (supposed to be 115 today). Any how, I wimped out.
DJ3100
Well-known member
kick panels
I watched every You Tube video I could find and ended up deciding to follow the process in this series: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSUHSpMEy-Q
At Home Depot I bought resin, fiberglass mat, 2 " cheap masking tape and heavy duty grilling aluminum foil.
I had bought cardboard kick panels ($15 for the pair) and trimmed them a little the clear the modifications. They were taped in place. A low tack contact adhesive held the foil to the cardboard and the same adhesive held the mat to the foil. With the resin applied I had a three dimensional form.
[/URL][/IMG]
I watched every You Tube video I could find and ended up deciding to follow the process in this series: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSUHSpMEy-Q
At Home Depot I bought resin, fiberglass mat, 2 " cheap masking tape and heavy duty grilling aluminum foil.
I had bought cardboard kick panels ($15 for the pair) and trimmed them a little the clear the modifications. They were taped in place. A low tack contact adhesive held the foil to the cardboard and the same adhesive held the mat to the foil. With the resin applied I had a three dimensional form.
DJ3100
Well-known member
kick panels
I bought speaker rings on Amazon and glued them in place with hot melt glue and pop sickle sticks. Stretchy red fabric got glued over that. I had a lot of wrinkles, so long strand fiberglass filler smoothed them out. Short strand filler filled the low spots. Of course a few hours of sanding followed that.
The kick panel retainers needed to be modified to hold 1/4" thick panels instead of the 1/8" cardboard and the rusted out area at the bottom had to be replaced. With a coat on high build primer and more sanding left to do here's what the passenger side looks like now. (The retainer is not hooked in the pic - it fits tighter to the door, but it's a pain to get in and out).
[/URL][/IMG]
I bought speaker rings on Amazon and glued them in place with hot melt glue and pop sickle sticks. Stretchy red fabric got glued over that. I had a lot of wrinkles, so long strand fiberglass filler smoothed them out. Short strand filler filled the low spots. Of course a few hours of sanding followed that.
The kick panel retainers needed to be modified to hold 1/4" thick panels instead of the 1/8" cardboard and the rusted out area at the bottom had to be replaced. With a coat on high build primer and more sanding left to do here's what the passenger side looks like now. (The retainer is not hooked in the pic - it fits tighter to the door, but it's a pain to get in and out).
smallfoot
He's rockin' the "Nuttin Special"!
That's nice work
sgtpontiac
Older, Wiser and Still Buildin'
Dang.....Nice Job!!
Those should really kick some sound....
Those should really kick some sound....
05snopro440
Well-known member
That's why I don't carry a spare. To remove the rear wheels I have to jack the truck up (by the diff), put jack stands under the fame and drop the axle all the way down. It has to be far enough off the ground to jimmy the wheels out too. Tow truck it is.
