1955 Ranch Wagon Cruiser

[Old Iron]

Just a question.
Does the bell housing have the correct diameter hole for the tranny input shaft housing to fit tight in it?
There's two different size holes and the bigger one will absolutely not work without a reduce.

 

[DJ3100]

Old Iron,

That's a good question. The bell housing is a Quicktime that adapts a Ford trans to a Chevy engine. The flywheel and pressure plate are 2012 Camaro, the clutch plate is 11" with Ford splines. The hydraulic release bearing is for a Ford T5.

I remember mocking up the trans, indicating in the bell housing, and doing all the measurements to properly shim the release bearing. I remember the trans fitting tightly on the bell housing and it didn't need the shim. However, I didn't take any photos of anything or if I did, I haven't found them. So at this point, I have no idea where I screwed up.

Actually, I'm not even sure I remember all those things I said I remember.

 

[bruno]

I had to get a reducer for a chevy truck bellhousing for a Saginaw 4speed. If you need one Novak has them.

 

[DJ3100]

Had a hot rodder who works in a transmission shop come by and eyeball the clutch. He showed me that the problem is over travel. All I need is the re-adjust the clutch pedal and put a stop in it! Fired it up and pushed the pedal part way and it seemed to work as it is supposed to. Duh...

But when it was running, the brake pedal went to the floor.

And the pool pump croaked, so that's tomorrow's job. Interestingly, the PVC glue does not work above 110 degrees ? ? ? The manager at Ace said they have been having issues with customers not being able to get it to set up. I guess I better start early.

 

[Old Iron]

Good to hear the clutch is OK.
Brake pedal going to the floor on start up is the second time this week I've heard of one doing this. When you figure it out be sure and post the fix.

 

[DJ3100]

Good to hear the clutch is OK.
Brake pedal going to the floor on start up is the second time this week I've heard of one doing this. When you figure it out be sure and post the fix.

I'll do that.

The booster didn't work the first time I fired it. I thought it was a leaking vacuum line. I made an elbow to give the line a straight shot and added clamps. But maybe the booster is bad. More than likely it's those rear calipers. Spent the day working on the pool, so I didn't have a chance to investigate the brakes.

 

[DJ3100]

Brakes

So the brakes work Thursday just fine (engine not running), but Friday (engine running) there is no pedal. Here's my thought process, ideas or corrections would be appreciated.

The booster is probably not the culprit. There is a mechanical link whether the booster is working or not. However, boosters cause the pedal to drop a bit. Not sure why.

If it's is the rear calipers, then the fronts should still be working and should cause some pedal resistance. Is that correct? So does that mean I'm getting air into both the front and rear circuits?

I plugged all the ports on the master was unable to push the piston. I think that should rule out the master. I can't imagine any kind of intermittent seal failure, but maybe it's possible?

I'm using a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. The fronts pass through, the rears are adjustable with a needle valve that's all the way open. I believe the two circuits are isolated inside this valve.

I checked the booster/baster linkage clearance and it was at the recommended less than 1/8".

I have checked all the fittings for leaks several times. The master doesn't seem to be loosing fluid.

The only idea I have is to take the rear calipers off and make sure everything is working with them. After that I'm out of ideas.

 

[DJ3100]

Clutch

Photo 1 is one of the hydraulic release bearing fittings. Tried to get it off through the bell housing window, but couldn't. So I pulled the transmission away from the engine. Found the real problem.

In a nutshell, the 2012 Camaro pressure plate has fingers that are recessed .5" below the pressure plate housing. (photo 2) That means that there is no way this release bearing will work with this pressure plate. There is only .75 from the face of the bearing to the fittings and .200 of that is free play clearance.

So, I either need a clutch fork, an extra long throw out bearing and a slave cylinder or a new pressure plate. Or ?

 

[jfg455]

swap to a 98-02 camaro pressure plate if you have a flat flywheel. It is more like a standard pressure plate.

 

[DJ3100]

Thanks for the info JFG, but I have the stepped flywheel. I got part numbers from Mike at Ram Clutches. A new flywheel and pressure plate is the way.














I

 

[jfg455]

Thanks for the info JFG, but I have the stepped flywheel. I got part numbers from Mike at Ram Clutches. A new flywheel and pressure plate is the way.

I have the same GM performance stepped flywheel at the house. Didn't work in the de-stroked 334ci LS2 I just built. Went back to a stock flat unit and it was all good. Not sure what the stepped unit even fits originally. [P

 

[DJ3100]

I have the same GM performance stepped flywheel at the house. Didn't work in the de-stroked 334ci LS2 I just built. Went back to a stock flat unit and it was all good. Not sure what the stepped unit even fits originally. [P

This one came of a 2012 Camaro with 12 miles on it. They pulled the motor and trans put a race motor in it. At least that was the story. I think the secret is having the correct GM hydraulic release bearing (GM calls it an internal slave cylinder) and knowing how to set up the self adjusting fingers.

Ordered the flat flywheel from Summit Thursday got it Friday. Maybe the pressure plate will be here today.

 

[DJ3100]

Radiator cover

Still sorting out all the clutch stuff. The disc showed up today, so maybe I'll be able to get it together tomorrow.

In the meantime I decided to make the radiator cover.
Photo 1: Hammer form made from some composite decking, the pattern, and the blank.

Photo 2,3 and 4: Checking the fit, after some forming and welding.

I also got a bunch of stuff painted (and re-painted) including the Radiator cover, the ecm cover and the surge tank.

 

[DozerII]

Very nice job on the rad cover. Did you just beat it into shape gently?

 

[DJ3100]

Very nice job on the rad cover. Did you just beat it into shape gently?

Yes. The holes in the blank and form allow bolts to locate and clamp the 2 pieces of wood together with the blank in between. The top piece is 1/4" smaller than the bottom. The bottom has the radius. The blank is 1/2" bigger than the form all the way around. The edge is just hammered down slowly and evenly.

 

[DozerII]

Awesome thanks for the info.[cl

 

[forbigpicture]

Very nice work as usual DJ...

I give it 2 thumbs up

 

[DJ3100]

Update

An acquaintance who worked in a transmission shop doing take outs and installs, gave me a hand with the transmission. He quickly decided I didn't have the clutch disc lined up properly (even though the alignment tool fit). He aligned it by feel and the trans just slipped right in.

Haven't have very much time to work on it, but when I did have time, I didn't have a helper to push the pedal to get the hydraulic clutch bled. So, I scrounged my ancient pile of air stuff and came up with an air powered pedal actuator. I also made an adjustable stop for the pedal so I can keep the throw out bearing from over traveling.

The second photo shows what I think is the problem - there is air at the top of the U. My fix for tomorrow is to get a tee and fittings to I can add a bleed screw at the top. That will allow me to pull a vacuum there and get all the air out - I hope.

 

[earthman]

Oh good grief A pneumatic pedal actuator!

 

[bruno]

Oh good grief A pneumatic pedal actuator!

I guess it will be a self driving car when it's all said and done