Oh, I'm way past that, Snopro. Even I know when the addiction has beat me.
There are 12 project cars ahead of me and most of them have a parts car besides. That's not counting 7 tractors to do, too.
Back to the present; the '36 has been giving me weird troubles, sometimes, but no weirder than this week when my ignition switch seized up, with no warning. I bought two new switches, one for my '96 pick-up and one for an '87 Ranger. The '96 was getting hard to turn, so it was for practice and it went well. The Ranger one did not. The big thing is you have to turn the switch to the 'run' position and then push a little button up and the barrel of tumblers pulls right out. If the key is seized into the off and remove position the little push button does not go up out of the way, even with heavy persuasion [hammering on the punch]. It can be bored out with a 3/16 drill, though. This is when you learn that there are two reasons to put the key into the 'run' position before attempting to change switches.
...... The electrical switch is turned by a screwdriver head on the end of the tumbler barrel, and that screwdriver head has to go through a slotted plate before it can fit into the electrical switch. The slot in the plate is lined up for the 'run' position only, so I couldn't pull the unit out until I lined the screwdriver head with the slot and I couldn't turn the key, even with Visegrips. About this time my English was getting more colourful, but my initial cautious pullings and pryings were getting more aggressive too, so I eventually, broke the barrel into pieces and pulled the pieces out with a pair of needle-nose Visegrips. That only left the screwdriver head still stuck in the electrical switch behind the slotted plate lined up at 'run'. The needlenose Visegrips could snap on to the little screwdriver shaft and now turn it to the 'run' position, voila, it pulled out easily and the new one went in like a lawyer through a loophole.
I ended up making it to A&W for a lateish supper anyhow.
