46 Ford rusty cab, my first build

[rusty46]

Thats actually pretty cool I like what you got going on with the tops of the doors as well. Im thinking about doing the same thing to my dodge doors
as well because of the way the top was chopped we already seen it's gonna
be a major pain in the a.. to get them right. We grabbed the spare door and did a similar setup to what you have there and since the top has been chopped it still looks pretty good It will just have that unfinished rat rod thing going on. We will smooth the cut away part with metal of course. Besides I wanna get it done so I can get it on the road.

Keep up the good work, Im keeping my eye on ya!

 

[Ratcrazy]

Wipe off the cobwebs and here's a update

Started building the two link suspension. Big shout out for Tator

I got all the material cut to size and tacked in place. The front bushing for the two link comes from a 79 Monta Carlo. The coilovers are off of a mid 80's Honda Accord.

Those front wheel drive cars have some good parts on them if you look long enough and cheap too. Freebies, son-in-law works for the local bone yard.

Got the stock brackets all cut out and tacked up tonight. Happy how things are turning out on this suspension.

Oh yeah, Got a rack out of a Dodge Omni for the steering for 25 bucks.

Heres a few photos to bring you up to date.

Larry

 

[Ratcrazy]

Today I got the frame setting on a full suspension for the first time and everything is tacked in place with no binding..

Still need to make the panhard bar and find some 4x4x1/4 angle to make the front support brackets for the trailing arms. sure am happy to get it this far.

Tator if you see this, thanks again.

Larry

 

[rockb1]

The frame is looking great!

 

[Ratcrazy]

Thanks rockb1. Learning alot building this thing.

 

[Ratcrazy]

Got the panhard bar made and mounted this week. Now to weld it all together.

 

[Ratcrazy]

Finally got around to making and installing the trailing arm front supports. I notched the frame so they would lay flush with the top of the frame when welded in. Added a gusset to the front end of the support and then capped it. Oh yeah, all were make from 1/4" angle and flat stock. Plenty of support now and dont look too bad either....... Still got to do a little more touch up welding on the brackets before I am completely satisfied with the results.

Heres a couple of pic's.

 

[Ratcrazy]

It's coming Together

Got around to stooting a little primer on the cab this weekend and the cab back on the frame. Though I would post a couple of pic's of the progress. Where you see the red paint is where the top is going to be cut off and the windshield chopped four inches. Got to do a little more adjusting on the drivers side door, the cowl needs to be lifted a little more and twisted some so the door will line up a touch better. After that I can start the floor frame......finally!!!

Larry

 

[fuzz]

Lookin good brother.

 

[52 fordman]

46 rusty cab

Looks way cool you did a very good job i would say! If you need any help let me know and will be there. its not that far away from here. and i would like to get a beter look.

52 fordman


Rust never sleeps

 

[bob w]

Your truck is coming along nicely. Good work! Do your rear springs feel about right for the weight the truck will end up being? I like the use of the Accord units and might steal your idea for use on some future project.

 

[Ratcrazy]

Looks way cool you did a very good job i would say! If you need any help let me know and will be there. its not that far away from here. and i would like to get a beter look.

52 fordman


Rust never sleeps

Anytime you want to come by Randy just give me a call. I will e-mail you my number. Thanks for your comments. Concord is only like 45 minutes away from me.
Take care and God bless

Larry

 

[Ratcrazy]

Your truck is coming along nicely. Good work! Do your rear springs feel about right for the weight the truck will end up being? I like the use of the Accord units and might steal your idea for use on some future project.

The Accord rear shocks/struts are a little stiff but I believe they will work out ok when the rat is finished. LOL.......whats the worst they can do, make it spring....I can live with that!!!
Thanks for the comments.
As far a stealing any of my ideas, LOL...I thought that was what ratrodding was all about, using other folks ideas when building a rat. My build is nothing but someone elses ideas. I just did it my way with everyone elses ideas.
Take care Bob and God bless

Larry

 

[Ratcrazy]

Building My Floor Frame

I posted this same thread over on KB but also wanted to post it here to get some input from you folks too.

Started building my floor frame today. In the photos you may notice that the drive shaft tunnel seems a little too high to some folks but there's a reason for that. First I want to be sure there's enough clearance for the driveshaft and secondly I want to run my fuel line inside the tunnel so the shutoff valve will be on the console between and to the rear of the seats. I also wanted room for a couple of drink holders in the tunnel console and need about 3 inches for the cup pockets.

Also notice in the photos the speedometer cable inlet on the transmission and where it is in relation to the floor frame rails are, need suggestings and ideas from you folks on how to handle this problem and how much clearance do I really need as to hooking it up the speed-o cable??

I am at a stop here till I figure out how to handle the clearance problem and where to start my bending of the frame rails running along the tranny.
Any suggesting are welcome. Thanks for looking at my build.

Larry

 

[rainman]

I personally would not want my fuel line in the same area as my driveshaft. Sounds like in the right situation it could be dangerous. I suppose you could run it through tubing of some sort and it wouldn't be too bad.

 

[Ratcrazy]

I would agree with what you are saying rainman if it was just going to be the gasline itself but my plans are to run a piece of 3/4 ID pipe the length of the tunnel to the firewall and weld it in to the frame work before skinning the tunnel. This will protect the fuel line.

We use this same concept on our racecars, the only different is the fuel line is ran along the right side of the inside of the car on the floor.

There will be flex line leading to the tunnel from the tank and flex line leading to the fuel pump on the motor from the firewall.

Thanks for your comments and your concern.

Larry

 

[Ratcrazy]

Just an update on my build.

After thinking more about rainmans concerns about the fuel line inside the tunnel I have decided not to do as originally planned. I guess that leaves more room now for a couple of drink holders in the tunnel. The fuel line will be ran along side the right frame rail but still inside some steel tubing for protection.

Been working on the floor frame some more and finally I am seeing the end in sight on that part of the project. Started to make the cardboard templetes this week for the floor pans. You may notice that nothing is welded solid as of yet on the floor frame. The reason why is that all the joints will be welded from the under side of the floor frame once I remove the body from the frame.

Here's a couple of pictures on the progress.

Larry

 

[Ratcrazy]

From cardboard to metal

Finally got the floor pans made. 16 ga steels does the trick here. Had to acid wash it because of surface rust and some kind of glue on it. It was a free sheet so I cant complain. On top of the metal pans I am going to use some pill and stich heat blanket along with some 1/2 marine plywood to level out the fllor and cover it with a rubber mat. I guess the tunnel will be my need victom.

After reading some replies from a few others I have decided to make the panhard bar a little longer so I spent the morning making and relocated the panhard brackets.
Now just got to come across the funds to purchase the material to make the bar. Not a very good picture of the bractets.

Larry

 

[racer135]

I donno how panhard bars are supposed to do anything apart from limiting suspension travel\bending the crap out of chassis rails. Is there a way to put em in to stop them pulling the diff sideways etc etc that I've overlooked somewhere? They just don't seem logical to me!!

 

[rainman]

The more level you can keep the bar at ride height the less movement you get. If you bring the bar off the rearend with an arc and have it level out, or almost level out towards the frame mount you get very little side to side movement. I hope I explained this right.