if you use modern eurothane window sealant it wont matter how wide the flange is. even if you only have a 1/4" on one side of the gless it isn't going anywhere. just have it clean and use the catalyst primer when you do it. My only concern is if there is any cowl shake / twist is it going to crack the glass. those windshield were rubber set and had some give. Looks good though.
48 fire truck roadster
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DJ3100
Well-known member
I am pretty sure there will be a significant amount of cowl shake. My '53 has the stock body mounts and the inside mirror vibrates enough that you really can't see out of it. This body will be bolted to the frame with 1/4" neoprene spacer, but I don't think that will isolate much vibration. The tires are more like rocks (with 90 psi) and currently the engine is mounted with out isolating mounts (I may change that).
So, the next thought would be to rubber mount and set the glass and rubber in silicon. Good idea?
earthman
Fascinated by rolling objects!
"So, the next thought would be to rubber mount and set the glass and rubber in silicon. Good idea?"
Yep....can't go wrong there Dan. Another of my low paying former jobs was at an auto glass shop.
Yep....can't go wrong there Dan. Another of my low paying former jobs was at an auto glass shop.
DJ3100
Well-known member
I didn't know that. Guess who I'm going to call when it comes time to cut down the glass.
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Cowl shake isn't the issue. Cowl distortion would be a problem as the window opening would change shape. The way you build, I can't imagine the cowl will distort.
lol! Never thought about the 7/8" thick floors you put in there! [S silicone is flexible and incredibly strong once it is set. that seems to be a good Idea. [P
DJ3100
Well-known member
Thanks guys, seems like the rubber windshield mount might be the safest and I have about 30" left from the F-2 project. With earthman's help I might be able to get the windshiled done without paying the glass guys - a first.
Looked for the master cylinder yesterday. It seems the parts guys don't list the Workhorse or the GM P-40 chassis as an option. I went to the place Truckster got the axles from and he confirmed the P-40 designation. He had the master brake system from the same bus that the axles came from - including the hydroboost (which I already have), the 90 deg bell crank (which I don't need) and the hoses (too short) and wanted $300. I finally tracked down a possible cylinder and am off to Napa to try and get verification.
My concern with the correct MC is the size of the bores on the single piston calipers - they measure around 3" diameter. The master I'm looking at has a bore of 1.57" or 40mm. Does this ratio make sense?
DJ3100
Well-known member
Truckster pointed out that he had a lot more cleance from the back of the cab to the frame - there was room for the bed front to side in between.
When the cab was narrowed the weld shrunk and left the back of the cab almost flat. I hammered and worked the weld to get the shape back. I even rolled some 3/4 box tube to stabilize the oil can effect I had going. I think I'll be able to move the cab forward another 1/8", but it probably doesn't matter anyhow.
When the cab was narrowed the weld shrunk and left the back of the cab almost flat. I hammered and worked the weld to get the shape back. I even rolled some 3/4 box tube to stabilize the oil can effect I had going. I think I'll be able to move the cab forward another 1/8", but it probably doesn't matter anyhow.
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truckster
Well-known member
$300? For the MC? I didn't pay much more for both axles and all the hardware.
I don't know about the bore on the MC, but I don't think you can go wrong duplicating the factory application.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Yeah, if I only knew what the factory application is. Noone lists '91 P-40 Chassis in any of their parts catalogs
A workhorse P40 chassis in 91 used mostly all GM parts. the rear axle is a 2 ton unit. You could use a 3500HD hyrdoboost system from a 93-02 chevy or GMC and it will probably be big enough to do what you want. Remember you have the large brakes but you are stopping about 1/4 of the weight so you won't need all the extra power. Most of workhorse parts are made by other manufacturers and relabeled or reboxed in workhorse boxes. Or you could get a ford F550 unit as that should be in the same size range. [P
DJ3100
Well-known member
Thanks, that pretty much confirms what I did. The MC I got is a 3500 HD unit (among other applications). There was a Raybestos unit in Phoenix at a wholesale jobber - only $70. It is huge.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Here's the master and hydroboost sitting in the aproximate forward to aft location. The side view shows how tall the assembly is. When it is flush with the bottom of the frame it will stick up out of the floor about 2". That's why it's so far back -it will be under the seat. At least that's the plan unless I find somewhere else for it live.
The aluminum block between the hydroboost and MC is an alignment adaptor that I made. I have no idea what the HB is from but it had an ID of 1.625". The MC had an OD of 1.921. The adaptor adds 1.00" to the length.
The problem is that I don't know if the HB works, if the HB and cylinder work together, or if the whole package will work with the brake calipers. The only way I know to find out is to complete and plumb the systems and see what happens - by then I'm pretty much committed. But, if you don't commit you never do anything.
The aluminum block between the hydroboost and MC is an alignment adaptor that I made. I have no idea what the HB is from but it had an ID of 1.625". The MC had an OD of 1.921. The adaptor adds 1.00" to the length.
The problem is that I don't know if the HB works, if the HB and cylinder work together, or if the whole package will work with the brake calipers. The only way I know to find out is to complete and plumb the systems and see what happens - by then I'm pretty much committed. But, if you don't commit you never do anything.
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earthman
Fascinated by rolling objects!
"but, if you don't commit you never do anything."
........ or no commitment no alimony i always say
Seems the high temps have warmed your bones up Dan. You are posting more and making more progress
........ or no commitment no alimony i always say
Seems the high temps have warmed your bones up Dan. You are posting more and making more progress
truckster
Well-known member
Still checking up on you....from beeutiful downtown Ozona, Tx tonight. Making good progress. You, not me.
DJ3100
Well-known member
earthman;225967Seems the high temps have warmed your bones up Dan. You are posting more and making more progress [IMG said:
Three + months working on the body with very little progress that shows. Now, I actually feel like I'm getting something done that folks might be interested in. The hotter it gets the earlier I start, so I probably am getting more done. The humidity will slow me down and it looks like we can expect it this week.
Truckster - Ozona TX? - check back tomorrow evening. I think I'll have a working brake pedal linked to the Hydroboost and MC.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Well it was very optomistic to think I would get the pedal made today, but there was progress.
I machined the mounting plate yesterday and TIG welded in the key. The next photo shows the assembly upside down on the bench.
The mounting box (with jack shaft) is temporarily clamped in place. The jack shaft was necessary to move the link rod closer to the frame. I used bronze bushings and a stainless steel shaft.
The problem I ran into is that there isn't enough room inside the frame for the brake pedal and a gas pedal. I decided to mount the brake pedal on the outside of the frame and use a jackshaft that goes through the frame. It will have a welded in housing with bronze bushings, and a 1" diameter, stainless, keyed shaft. I didn't have the bushings and I need to take the cab off the frame to drill the hole.
I machined the mounting plate yesterday and TIG welded in the key. The next photo shows the assembly upside down on the bench.
The mounting box (with jack shaft) is temporarily clamped in place. The jack shaft was necessary to move the link rod closer to the frame. I used bronze bushings and a stainless steel shaft.
The problem I ran into is that there isn't enough room inside the frame for the brake pedal and a gas pedal. I decided to mount the brake pedal on the outside of the frame and use a jackshaft that goes through the frame. It will have a welded in housing with bronze bushings, and a 1" diameter, stainless, keyed shaft. I didn't have the bushings and I need to take the cab off the frame to drill the hole.
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earthman
Fascinated by rolling objects!
Jeez, that's a pretty piece of work
truckster
Well-known member
x2 x2
you know, if you just widened the cab a little you would have room for the pedal..........
