48 fire truck roadster

[DJ3100]

They are called "necker knobs".

I think they may have Tractor Supply here. Saw a couple off the interstate coming in. If I can go look for something for you, I would be happy to have a reason to go.

Thanks, Truckster. TSC might be more fun than Galveston if you get the chance -kind of like going to Bass Pro. You could check and see if they have the silver Holley 1850's for less than Summit's price of $235 (that's for carbs refurbished by Holley).

I did throw the '80 I ton truck wheel on the adaptor today, the size fits the cab. It is 15.5" diameter, so that's the size Ill be looking for.

 

[Sam_Fear]

Those knobs are illegal here too, but so is running into stuff. I've had one on my truck for quite awhile, and have to use it to park, but also use it to help around corners - still two handing the wheel mind you. I think most old policemen would understand and most young guys would probably just think it was standard equipment on something old.

Check ebay, there are sometimes some good old ones on there.

 

[earthman]

So kids this reminds me of the '59 Olds wheel(?) i had on a '55 Chevy. If you remember that year Olds steering wheel had a 10"deep V with horn buttons in the short (handles) that connected to the ring. Now the Olds had a short steering column to compensate where the Chevy didn't. So you see with the ring cut completely off i had ape hangers instead of a steering wheel. Back in the early fifties cutting the top half of the wheel off was enough of a fad that they passed a law against it. But that fad was long gone when a cop stopped me and did not know it was illegal. He did comment that it was the most dangerous thing he had ever seen Ok now back to what we are supposed to be talking about.

 

[truckster]

Looks like there are 3 of them within 30 miles. I think we will have time this week to take a run. Not sure which day.

Don't see anything on their website about having carbs though.

 

[DJ3100]

Looks like there are 3 of them within 30 miles. I think we will have time this week to take a run. Not sure which day.

Don't see anything on their website about having carbs though.

Sorry, carbs was the best thing i could come up with. Too early to buy paint.

 

[truckster]

They show two different suicide knobs, one about $10 and one about $15 if I remember correctly.

 

[DJ3100]

I think I'll hold the necker knobs in reserve until I at least have a steering wheel.

Today's project was the gas pedal (actually I started it last week and have been pecking away at it until today).

I worked on having the trottle cable come back through the firewall for a while. But, the idea of drilling holes in the firewall didn't really appeal to me - especially after making the firewall twice.

So this is what I came up with. Again, bronze bushing and stainless shafting. It's a little hard to figure out from the pics. You can see the brake pivot on the lower right.

There's a photo of my throttle return spring. The rod will probably get cut off to about 2' sticking out of the floor.

The geometry was a little difficult, but the pedal moves 1.5" to get 2.5" of cable movement. I also had to bend the rod about 1" away from the tranny so the pedal would be in the proper location next to the tunnel and the cable wouldn't hit on the trans dust cover.

 

[DJ3100]

Here's my transmission cooler. It will probably move to the rear of where the photo shows and of course it will be down in the frame.

The fan I bought was only $10 and worth the gamble, but is way too big. Although when I think about it maybe I could put it at an angle or something -- naah too big.

 

[DJ3100]

Yesterday I lengthened (full penetration TIG weld) the steering box arm and tapped it 3/4-16 for a spherical rod end.

Today I decided to make the link to the front axle. I looked around and found a tie rod with a huge stud. After measuring, I realized that I could ream the steering arm to change the direction (the taper would have accomodated a smaller rod end from the bottom). I got the tapered reamer for the F-2.

Then, the 3/4" rod end looked too small and the 1" OD dom I was using for a link wasn't going to accomodate the 1" thread in the tie rod end. So I reamed the steering box arm. I'll need to cut down the tie rod, but everything looks to scale. Next, I need to bend the steering arm some more. It needs to go up 2 1/2" for the link to be level.

Hey, Truckster, do you remember if this tie rod was off the '80 or the firetruck?

I made a pair of these wedges at Bonehead's suggestion (or was it a demand?) and I today finally got them in.
I also moved the front axle ahead 2 1/2". I like it and there's more room for the radiator and shell.

 

[SugarRay8]

Everything is looking great, you do some awesome work.

Not sure if it’s at all necessary, but I’d radius the edge on the wedges so it doesn’t have a sharp edge for the spring to flex around.

 

[DJ3100]

Everything is looking great, you do some awesome work.

Not sure if it’s at all necessary, but I’d radius the edge on the wedges so it doesn’t have a sharp edge for the spring to flex around.

That's a good idea, thanks. I wish I had thought of that before I welded them to the frame.

 

[SugarRay8]

Sorry about that, guess you could still knock the edge down with a grinder.

I doubt that it’s any big deal if you just leave it.

 

[truckster]

Pretty sure the tie rod is from the fire truck. The P40 tie rod is on the axle, and Doug took the complete frame/suspension for the '80 1 ton.

Can't tell from the picture. You could check with Doug to make sure he got the '80 tie rod.

 

[DJ3100]

Pretty sure the tie rod is from the fire truck. The P40 tie rod is on the axle, and Doug took the complete frame/suspension for the '80 1 ton.

Can't tell from the picture. You could check with Doug to make sure he got the '80 tie rod.

That makes sense. I'd guess that the one on the axle is the P40. I was hoping I could find new rod ends if I need them, but a '48 Chevy Firetruck steering part will be a little obscure. I'll probably need to find them by dimensions. Actually they only have 11,000 miles on them - they're probably not worn that much.

 

[truckster]

After the body patches you found under the bondo, I am seriously questioning that 11,000 miles, but then I never owned anything in the midwest or northeast, especially since 1948.

 

[DJ3100]

After the body patches you found under the bondo, I am seriously questioning that 11,000 miles, but then I never owned anything in the midwest or northeast, especially since 1948.

I suspect they washed it to death. Plus we're not sure how long it sat out side after they retired it from service. They way there were built, it really doesn't take long for them to rust out - they have giant water buckets in both rear corners.

I have been looking around trying to get a value for the speedometer and gauges. There are no original gauges I can find that are even close to as pristine as these.

 

[DJ3100]

I have been feeling like this project is never ending. Today I reviewed the whole post and am amazed at how far it's come. So, I decided to goof with the dash - since I read in the post I that was a high priority in March.

I picked up these rear bumper pieces at a swap meet last year. '5? Pontiac?
The gauge will look ok in the center. These things are 10 ga. (1/8" +) and done in one draw - amazing! One of them has a huge dent and the face isn't round. It will be a bear to fix.

I've been procrastinating about how to cut them down without making a major mess of them. Here's my set-up - just turned the part and they came out pretty even. I've been putting off cutting them for weeks - it took less than 10 minutes.

The last photo is the mock-up. The tach and speedo go in these and there is room for the 4 other gauges to the right - maybe stacked in a diamond. I have 3 glove compartment doors - so maybe I'll keep the glove compartment. The holes below the dash would be for the ignltion switch and lights. Maybe this will all change, but I'm going to leave it for a while and see if I get used to it.

 

[DJ3100]

Steering complete?

I've been goofing with the dash without progress. I decided to finish the steering.

I got the arm on the axle so the link from the steering box is pretty much parallel with the frame when the wheels are straight. It turns lock to lock, so I'm pretty happy with the result.

The last photo shows how I located the holes on the diameter. I found a nut that was just the right size to fit the inside of the tube and stay put. The 1 2 3 blocks and adjustable parallel aligned the flats on the nut. The tube is a piece of the 1 ton exhaust.

 

[earthman]

That is just plain cool Dan.

Very interesting visual effect.

 

[DJ3100]

Thanks Earthman. By the way - You have any extra rust in that bag - I'm running short.