48 fire truck roadster

[DJ3100]

Checked out the distributors and the HEI is about 1/4" too big in diameter. The 98 has no advance system.

Talked to AZ4GEMAN, and he has a few small cap distributors. He also has some Holley 1850's and the tranny. So I guess I'll be going shopping at his place next week.

Another issue will be tracking down a dipstick that will clear the headers - I may be boxed into a corner on that one.

Truckster, was there a Power steering pump in the pile from that engine? Seems like I should have 2, can't find either one yet.

 

[truckster]

There wasn't one with the newer 454. The '80 had one, but I think I gave that to Doug along with a steering box he wanted to try to fit up on his COE. You might check with him when you go for the rest of the pieces/parts.

I will take a quick look through my junk....uh, parts inventory, but I don't think I have one left here.

 

[DJ3100]

These aren't the most exciting photos you'll ever see, but you asked for pics.

Found time Saturday to wash the block, coat the inside with WD-40 and paint the outside. Used the leaf blower on the shop and covered the platen and bench with plastic (actually I did this before cleaning the block). I'm keeping the shop doors closed and cooler on low until I finish this.

I checked the piston ring end gaps - they all came in at .024. Plastigaged the mains at .0015 - .002.

The oil galley plugs in the front have a small oil control hole - I don't have them. I think I remember the machine shop giving me a bag with them in it, but they're nowhere to be found. That's today's mission, at least one of them.

I did get the expansion plugs and, I hope, all the other threaded plugs installed. Installed the cam and crank.

I went to O'Reilly's and got a ring compressor on their free tool loaner program. It was junk - spent an hour on one piston and quit for the day. Bought a good Lisle compressor.

 

[truckster]

Pretty exciting for me! Not only are you a fabricator and bodyman (and a blacksmith and machinist and editor and teacher), but an engine builder as well.

 

[DJ3100]

Pretty exciting for me! Not only are you a fabricator and bodyman (and a blacksmith and machinist and editor and teacher), but an engine builder as well.

If only I could do one of those things well.

The engine building has hit a snag, I can't figure out how to get the upper oil control ring in the hole. I have destroyed 2 of them so far. Don't know if a third type of ring compressor would work better or if something else is wrong. I guess I need another trip to the machine shop for some instruction.

I got the 700R4 from Doug, today, but he doesn't have a small cap distributor that he wants to part with. He also had 4 junk Holley 1850's, so now I have 6. Should be able to get 2 good ones from all the parts + the rebuild kits.

 

[zzrodder]

If only I could do one of those things well.

The engine building has hit a snag, I can't figure out how to get the upper oil control ring in the hole. I have destroyed 2 of them so far. Don't know if a third type of ring compressor would work better or if something else is wrong

What style of ring compressor is it ? I've always used a cheapie band type that you tighten with a 3/8" drive ratchet, lots of 30 wt. to lube the piston & rings and they pop right in. I see there's a chamfer on the top of the bore, so that's OK - maybe your ring compressor isn't tightening enough?

 

[DJ3100]

The compressor I have now is a Lisle. The thin oil control ring drops into the chamfer and out of the expander and then just folds over instead of going down into the hole. But only the top ring, not the bottom ring. I have an idea of a solution I'm about to try out before heading down to the machine shop.

 

[Tim...Ok]

What style of ring compressor is it ? I've always used a cheapie band type that you tighten with a 3/8" drive ratchet, lots of 30 wt. to lube the piston & rings and they pop right in. I see there's a chamfer on the top of the bore, so that's OK - maybe your ring compressor isn't tightening enough?

You might try grinding some of the little dimples shorter on the outside of the ring compressor so that when it makes contact with the deck, its actually down in the chamfer instead of sitting on top of the deck..I like to dip the piston/ring assembly in a jug of 30 wt...make sure the compressor is very tight on the piston..tight as you can get it..I slowly bump it down til the rings are just above the deck..then I like one firm hit to get all the rings below the top of deck..only use the wooden handle end of a hammer..rubber hose over the rod bolts so you don't nick the crank..

also, I don't just tighten the band around the piston..tighten til its almost tight, then I like to "wiggle" the compressor band to get the rings to settle in to the grooves..usually band will lossen up a little..then finish tightening all the way..

Tim

 

[8literbeater]

The engine building has hit a snag, I can't figure out how to get the upper oil control ring in the hole. I have destroyed 2 of them so far. Don't know if a third type of ring compressor would work better or if something else is wrong. I guess I need another trip to the machine shop for some instruction.

I realize that I do things a little differently than most, but when I install pistons, I don't use a ring compressor. I just pinch the rings together by hand and slowly feed them down the hole. I file-fitted all the rings on my 489, and didn't use a compressor.
Probably the main reason for this is that when I started with my first few engines, the ring compressor just seemed to hide the rings as they got stuck, and scratched the out of the piston skirts.
I haven't broken a ring yet.

 

[DJ3100]

Thanks for the input guys.

After sleeping on the problem last night, I decided the problem might be surface finish on the chamfer. The rings are only .025 thick any small burr or ridge would hang them up. I plugged the cylinders with lots of towels and laid rags over the rest of the engine and used a Cratex wheel to smooth the chamfer and the transition into the bore. I also smeared a ton of assembly lube on the chamfer (the pistons are dunked in oil per instructions from the machine shop). Problem solved.

Except for the 2 destroyed rings. I'll get the replacements tomorrow.

Somehow I lost the after pic. Can't really tell much from the photos anyway.

 

[jfg455]

Tighten the compressor until it is snug (not tight) set the whole thing on top of the bore. Used a heavy wood handled hammer, handle side down. Tap the piston to set iut square then use a firm thunk, push motion to drive the piston in. You want it to be just fast enough so the ring jumps the little gap with out expanding.

 

[DJ3100]

Got all the pistons and rings in today, plus the timing chain, timing cover and balancer. I'm hoping to button up the rest of the engine tomorrow.

I still don't have a distributor. I'm kind of hung up on whether I need the Melonized gear. The machine shop says that only aftermarket roller cams need them, not stock cams. Any input on that?

 

[DJ3100]

Here's the rest of the engine assembly. Today it's going back in the frame.

 

[DJ3100]

Valve covers

 

[Dirtyrat]

Looks like you are moving right along!

I have a question, only because I have not seen a head gasket like that one before, I thought my eyes were playing tricks on me, is there a reason the sealing surfaces would not be round around the cylinders? [S[S

 

[DJ3100]

I had the same question. When they are on the block the area around the cylinders and that tab up by the intake seems wrong, but on the head they look correct. That is the shape off the combustion chamber. They are the same as the originals that I am replacing. So I guess they must make sense to someone.

 

[bob w]

I never tire of engine assembly pictures. The gasket shape allows a little more room for the air/fuel mixture to get around that side of the valve.

Your roadster should scoot!

 

[DJ3100]

Here's the views I've been waiting for.

I did confirm that the HEI is too big. I decided I need the under header wires with L shaped boots.

GM says Melonized distributor gears are required for the stock cam, although aftermarket manufacturers are saying their steel gears are compatible.

I'm on my way to get a water pump and start to work out the serpentine belt.

 

[truckster]

Awsome! Who did you take the 700r4 to, or is it ready to go? Maybe you already said and I don't remember and can't find it.

And I hate to ask this question, but curiosity is killing me. What is your thinking on not massaging the custom metal work on the oil pan?

 

[DJ3100]

Awsome! Who did you take the 700r4 to, or is it ready to go? Maybe you already said and I don't remember and can't find it.

And I hate to ask this question, but curiosity is killing me. What is your thinking on not massaging the custom metal work on the oil pan?

From the invoice I think the 700R4 may be ready to go, but I'm taking it to Pete's transmission (the place that built it) and see what they recommend.

After looking at the paint and the way the metal was shaped, I decided the "custom" metal work on the oil pan was performed by GM. I considered trying to bump it into a more pleasing shape but, it has a built in windage tray and I think 16 ga material (might even be 14 ga). There was very little access from the inside. I decided the only time it would show would be when you were changing the oil.