48 fire truck roadster

[DJ3100]

I think the 4L80 would be the better choice anyway...

So do I, but...

I just compared the 4L80 to the 700R4. In order to make the 4L80 fit, I will need to enlarge the tranny tunnel and move the trans mount back about 7 ". There isn't a lot of room in the cab anyway + the tunnel is formed 1/4" plate. Not going to happen.

So, I'll be sticking with the 700R4. I've got a couple weeks to check to sources and pricing until I get the block back.

 

[DJ3100]

In for a penny....

If a used engine runs and doesn't smoke too much, you just run it and don't care much what the inside looks like. But once you take it apart....

The spalled roller on one lifter was actually a lifter that thought it was a solid lifter - it was filled with solids (coked oil?) and seized up tight. That wore a groove in the cam lobe. I think the added pressure caused the timing chain to stretch (at any rate the timing chain has almost 1/4" of slop). Are the other lifters about to join the solid lifter society? I have the other lifters soaking in the hope that I can feel like they are clean enough to use.

Gen VI BBC's 1996 - 2000 use a unique cam shaft. Of course, it's a roller. Cam and lifters: $480 for Comp, everyone else's are more ($520+). Stock GM cam $175; GM lifters $330. Compare that with earlier flat tappets as cheap as $200 for the set.

Stock GM timing chain set $50 - not too bad.

 

[DJ3100]

Well, I can see why a project comes to a halt when the engine goes out to be machined. I am hoping they will have the results of their inspection today.

In question is whether we re-sleeve the bad cylinder and can save the bad piston or get just one piston. Or do we bore .030 over and get new pistons.

Grind the crank or just polish? Are the valve springs in good enough shape to use? Used cam, new factory stock or aftermarket?

On the other hand, they are going to magnaflux - maybe I don't even have an engine.

 

[Tim...Ok]

Well, I can see why a project comes to a halt when the engine goes out to be machined. I am hoping they will have the results of their inspection today.

In question is whether we re-sleeve the bad cylinder and can save the bad piston or get just one piston. Or do we bore .030 over and get new pistons.

Grind the crank or just polish? Are the valve springs in good enough shape to use? Used cam, new factory stock or aftermarket?

On the other hand, they are going to magnaflux - maybe I don't even have an engine.

Gets rough doesn't it..I've got $4500 in my 454 in my 82 chevy project.. Don't junk that other block just because its .060 over.. I went .100 over with no problems on one years ago..lots of racers go .125 over

 

[DJ3100]

Gets rough doesn't it..I've got $4500 in my 454 in my 82 chevy project.. Don't junk that other block just because its .060 over.. I went .100 over with no problems on one years ago..lots of racers go .125 over

Good to know about the .125 over. Depressing about the $4500. I can see how it can get there very easily.

 

[jfg455]

If you change the cam and lifter then get new springs. Cheap insurance against a dropped valve or floating them. Gen V BBC's are kinda tough to build as they are on thier own for a lot of things. Gen VI you can use Gen IV heads with the right gaskets etc. I would go roller cam even though it doubles the cost. Most everything else will be the same price for the block work. Just my $.02

 

[DJ3100]

If you change the cam and lifter then get new springs. Cheap insurance against a dropped valve or floating them. Gen V BBC's are kinda tough to build as they are on thier own for a lot of things. Gen VI you can use Gen IV heads with the right gaskets etc. I would go roller cam even though it doubles the cost. Most everything else will be the same price for the block work. Just my $.02

I think that's good advise. Comp's roller kit with lifters and springs is $600+ and they say the springs are necessary. I'm not sure about pushrods. I also need a harmonic balancer (externally balanced) $180+, and timing set. The machine shop still hasn't gotten back with me, but they will be at least $1000 - probably $1500.

I really don't feel good about putting that $900 700R4 behind a rebuilt engine. The Hughes 700R4 is $1700 or I can go with a stock 4L80 for $900 plus $700 for the controller.

I'm in the midst of major sticker shock.

 

[jfg455]

I really don't feel good about putting that $900 700R4 behind a rebuilt engine. The Hughes 700R4 is $1700 or I can go with a stock 4L80 for $900 plus $700 for the controller.

a stock 4L80 is a very tough trans. And it is basically a TH400 with a 4th gear added to it. I have run stock junkyard units behind 650hp motors without issues. The last was in a 4400 C1500 that ran 11.9 @121 in the 1/4. They are heavier than a 700R4. 220lbs vs 175lbs. [P

 

[DJ3100]

a stock 4L80 is a very tough trans. And it is basically a TH400 with a 4th gear added to it. I have run stock junkyard units behind 650hp motors without issues. The last was in a 4400 C1500 that ran 11.9 @121 in the 1/4. They are heavier than a 700R4. 220lbs vs 175lbs. [P

The problem I'm having issues with is that the 4L80 is 8 inches longer from face to mount. I can make it fit, but with a lot of effort and with some loss of interior space. Throw in cost of the controller for the 4L80 and the 700R4 looks like a better choice. I'm still looking for the right 700R4, though.

Yesterday I met with the guys at the machine shop and laid out a plan for the engine. It should be done next week. Stock rebuild - bearings, cam, lifters, timing set, oil pump and gasket set. Probably +.030 pistons and bore. They already have the heads done.

 

[DJ3100]

Grille shell

Progress on the grill shell. It still needs another day of metal finishing, but all the parts are in place and the mounting holes are drilled and tapped.

The only problem (that I know about) is that there is no access to the radiator cap without removing the shell.

I'm still undecided on the grille and what is going in those holes on the sides.

 

[Flipper_1938]

The only problem (that I know about) is that there is no access to the radiator cap without removing the shell.

.

Moroso filler that splices into the upper radiator hose?

 

[DJ3100]

Hadn't seen those before. That's a great solution

 

[jfg455]

or use the water neck fill cap unit. It is a little cleaner. http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/spideraccessories_2222_434772905

 

[DJ3100]

or use the water neck fill cap unit. It is a little cleaner. http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/spideraccessories_2222_434772905

I saw that, too. Can't remember how high the water neck is compared to the radiator. There's probably a pic somewhere on this thread.

 

[Flipper_1938]

Hadn't seen those before. That's a great solution

You might also find something similar from the junkyard. My daily driver Toyota Yaris has one...but the hose size is pretty small.

 

[DJ3100]

Got my engine back from the machine shop, today. They bored it .030 over, new pistons, cam, timing set, gasket kit and bearings. Parts cost about $1000, machining $480, tax $80. Maybe I'll be able to get it together next week.

It turns out Doug had a 700R4 built for a project he sold that has the same stuff in it that I was looking for. Not the big torque race version but probably strong enough to work. I should get that next week.

I have the HEI out of the '80 454. The Holleys I have on the manifold are the wrong ones, but I have some 1850's (600 cfm, 4160) and ordered the rebuilt kits and 2.5 power valves.

Got the headers back from ceramic coating. I went to Jet coat, but found they had closed the local processing unit. They package and send them to Oklahoma. the 1300 degree bright finish is $450 + $90 shipping. 2 week turnaround. Did some checking and went to Custom Finishing. They do the 2000 degree ceramic coating. They turned them in 2 days and charged $230. They beautiful! Can't wait to see them on.

 

[truckster]

All of that doesn't sound too bad for $$. Course, I guess that is probably just the beginning?

We are going to need some pictures.

 

[Tim...Ok]

That really doesn't sound bad for what all you had done..Have you tried installing that HEI with your tunnel ram? Out of the 6 or 8 tunnel rams I've owned over the years, I've only had one that would clear an HEI, and I think it was a small block.. I picked up an MSD Pro Billet distributor for this one, no way was an HEI gonna fit..

 

[DJ3100]

That really doesn't sound bad for what all you had done..Have you tried installing that HEI with your tunnel ram? Out of the 6 or 8 tunnel rams I've owned over the years, I've only had one that would clear an HEI, and I think it was a small block.. I picked up an MSD Pro Billet distributor for this one, no way was an HEI gonna fit..

Crap, I forgot about that. I'm pretty sure the HEI doesn't fit. I also have the electronic distributor off the '98, but I have no clue whether it can work without the computer. Haven't even pulled the cap yet. Looks like I will need a small cap distributor.

I was looking at serpentine systems and figured out that the '96 -2000 engine is the only one in later years with a short reverse rotation water pump. The cheapest March system I could find that is short with alt and ps and reverse is $1750. No chance I will be temped the buy one.

 

[DJ3100]

All of that doesn't sound too bad for $$. Course, I guess that is probably just the beginning?

We are going to need some pictures.

I spent $185 at Summit (balancer, oil filter adapter, Holley rebuild kits), $98 at NAPA for assembly lube, sealant, Loc Tite, paint and oil etc.

Still need a distributor and wires, plugs. Might as well replace the water pump and alternator. Starts to sound like $2200 +, if I can get the rebuilt carbs to function.

I haven't figured out how to take photos when I'm up to my elbows in assembly lube. I should have gotten photos of the engine in the back of the truck. Everything went into plastic bags to stay clean until I can start assembly.