Torchie
Well-known member
I'll be watching for that. 
[P[P
Was just discussing tire sizes with Mopar Tony for his Plymouth.
Torchie
[P[PWas just discussing tire sizes with Mopar Tony for his Plymouth.
Torchie
51 Cambridge build
- Thread starter Sniper1
- Start date
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Old Iron
Well-known member
[P[P[P
Sniper1
Well-known member
Finally got some quality time in the garage and was able to do my fitment test.
Link to the write up on my page.
A teaser photo added here
Link to the write up on my page.
A teaser photo added here
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Sniper1
Well-known member
It appears my free webpage got overloaded. So I ended up getting my own domain.
It should all be there
www.yourolddad.com
It should all be there
www.yourolddad.com
Sniper1
Well-known member
Got the air cleaner housing write up done
http://www.yourolddad.com/air-filters
As well as the TPS adapter mount.
http://www.yourolddad.com/sensors
Still have to decide where to put the AIT sensor, real estate on the air cleaner base is tight, might put it in the intake. Internet opinions are mixed on which is a better spot.
http://www.yourolddad.com/air-filters
As well as the TPS adapter mount.
http://www.yourolddad.com/sensors
Still have to decide where to put the AIT sensor, real estate on the air cleaner base is tight, might put it in the intake. Internet opinions are mixed on which is a better spot.
Sniper1
Well-known member
Been awhile, sorry about that.
Built a gantry crane to pull the engine out. Once the engine is out I will start the cleanup process, plumb the fueling system for the EFI swap, run the wiring for the EFI swap. Clean and regasket the trans and engine (at a minimum). Lots of work once the engine is out.
Built a gantry crane to pull the engine out. Once the engine is out I will start the cleanup process, plumb the fueling system for the EFI swap, run the wiring for the EFI swap. Clean and regasket the trans and engine (at a minimum). Lots of work once the engine is out.
Attachments
Sniper1
Well-known member
Very nice, other than the intake choice my setup will be real similar.
Sniper1
Well-known member
Got a core 230 today to build up for the Cambridge. Put my gantry crane to work. Hopefully, I'll have some engine pics to put up as I build this one. Going to hot rod it and I figure since my original to the car engine is good I can build this one, swap it in on a weekend with my son while still being able to enjoy driving the car.
Attachments
Sniper1
Well-known member
Old Iron
Well-known member
I love it when a parent takes care of their children like that. It shows them how much they matter.
Sniper1
Well-known member
Spent some time with my son on tearing down the 230, had to drag him away from Band of Brothers to do it though.
Got all the studs but two out of the manifold mounting area, going to leave those two for the machine shop as I already broke off an easy out in each and managed to remove the broken parts, which if you've ever had to remove a broken easy out you know how fun that can be. So my son learned some valuable information with that, first don't break an easy out, second how much fun it can be removing the broken one.
Pulled all the external stuff off of the distributor side, except the oil fill and dipstick tubes. No real issues there. Spent some time discussing what and how the distributor does what it does with my son. He's a real noob with cars, my fault.
Got the plugs out, some of them really did not want to come out, used Kroil on them but even so number three was a bear. All of them had gaps in excess of .045", some well in excess. Wonder how well it ran? Number six looked a bit rich but the rest looked ok colorwise. This kind of thing will tell you how well it ran aforehand.
Pulled the head off, most of the head bolts came out ok, one or two were a bit reluctant but came out. Solid copper head gasket on it, no copper coat or sealant that I could determine, head popped off with no issues whatsoever, one moderate whack with a plastic headed hammer and the head moved. No idea what brand that head gasket was, couldn't see any name on it. Not planning to reuse it so it doesn't matter, might turn it into wall art for the garage. Some of the coolant holes in the deck were a bit goobery. It was interesting to see where, in the chamber, the carbon build up was. Tells a bit about the thermodynamic characteristics.
Cylinder walls barely had a ridge, just enough to barely catch a finger nail. Might have just been carbon build up, haven't looked close at it yet. Might bust out the KaBar to see if I can scrape off the carbon or if it's a ridge. Both the KaBar and I have found other uses for ourselves these days, lol.
In the tappet picture above you can see some of the valves are stuck. I put some penetrating oil in through the ports three or four times since last weekend. Once we got the head off we squirted some more penetrating oil in thru the opening between the deck and the open valve. Then hosed down the valve stems as well. the objective being to loosen up the carbon and rust. I got all but two loose with nothing more than some penetrating oil and a plastic faced hammer. I will work on the other two some more later, they are soaking in penetrating oil right now. NOt in a big hurry to get them out. I saw a "build" video where some one used to vice grips to ripped the stuck valves out, then he reused the valves, after lapping them wiht a 1/2" drill and no new guides, SMH.
More as it happens.
Got all the studs but two out of the manifold mounting area, going to leave those two for the machine shop as I already broke off an easy out in each and managed to remove the broken parts, which if you've ever had to remove a broken easy out you know how fun that can be. So my son learned some valuable information with that, first don't break an easy out, second how much fun it can be removing the broken one.
Pulled all the external stuff off of the distributor side, except the oil fill and dipstick tubes. No real issues there. Spent some time discussing what and how the distributor does what it does with my son. He's a real noob with cars, my fault.
Got the plugs out, some of them really did not want to come out, used Kroil on them but even so number three was a bear. All of them had gaps in excess of .045", some well in excess. Wonder how well it ran? Number six looked a bit rich but the rest looked ok colorwise. This kind of thing will tell you how well it ran aforehand.
Pulled the head off, most of the head bolts came out ok, one or two were a bit reluctant but came out. Solid copper head gasket on it, no copper coat or sealant that I could determine, head popped off with no issues whatsoever, one moderate whack with a plastic headed hammer and the head moved. No idea what brand that head gasket was, couldn't see any name on it. Not planning to reuse it so it doesn't matter, might turn it into wall art for the garage. Some of the coolant holes in the deck were a bit goobery. It was interesting to see where, in the chamber, the carbon build up was. Tells a bit about the thermodynamic characteristics.
Cylinder walls barely had a ridge, just enough to barely catch a finger nail. Might have just been carbon build up, haven't looked close at it yet. Might bust out the KaBar to see if I can scrape off the carbon or if it's a ridge. Both the KaBar and I have found other uses for ourselves these days, lol.
In the tappet picture above you can see some of the valves are stuck. I put some penetrating oil in through the ports three or four times since last weekend. Once we got the head off we squirted some more penetrating oil in thru the opening between the deck and the open valve. Then hosed down the valve stems as well. the objective being to loosen up the carbon and rust. I got all but two loose with nothing more than some penetrating oil and a plastic faced hammer. I will work on the other two some more later, they are soaking in penetrating oil right now. NOt in a big hurry to get them out. I saw a "build" video where some one used to vice grips to ripped the stuck valves out, then he reused the valves, after lapping them wiht a 1/2" drill and no new guides, SMH.
More as it happens.
Sniper1
Well-known member
Got some more progress.
Two weeks ago I had a tire sidewall fail, nothing serious as I was doing 25 and it just sort of went flat and the tread start to separate. So I bought a stock size equivalent radial. That made me start thinking about the tires that I had, they were on the car went I bought it. Decided maybe time to get new tires.
What's a hot rod without fat tires? I ended up doing some math to try to figure out what would work and came up with a reasonable way to verify clearances and such without having to buy the tires first. Info on how I did that in the link
http://www.yourolddad.com/tires
Decided on P255/50R17's. Several factors came int play making that decision. Stocker's were 15's, not much in the way of reasonably priced performance 15's anymore. I can get brand new OEM 17" steelies for a reasonable price. I ended up with 2008 Chrysler 300 steelies, new Dorman brand. Today's funky backspacing actually works good for fat tires in the back since I have way more clearance between the tire and leaf than I do the tire and fender lip.
There is one down side though, the stock hubcaps no longer fit. My choice for a replacement that isn't something "modern" boils down to moon discs.
Two weeks ago I had a tire sidewall fail, nothing serious as I was doing 25 and it just sort of went flat and the tread start to separate. So I bought a stock size equivalent radial. That made me start thinking about the tires that I had, they were on the car went I bought it. Decided maybe time to get new tires.
What's a hot rod without fat tires? I ended up doing some math to try to figure out what would work and came up with a reasonable way to verify clearances and such without having to buy the tires first. Info on how I did that in the link
http://www.yourolddad.com/tires
Decided on P255/50R17's. Several factors came int play making that decision. Stocker's were 15's, not much in the way of reasonably priced performance 15's anymore. I can get brand new OEM 17" steelies for a reasonable price. I ended up with 2008 Chrysler 300 steelies, new Dorman brand. Today's funky backspacing actually works good for fat tires in the back since I have way more clearance between the tire and leaf than I do the tire and fender lip.
There is one down side though, the stock hubcaps no longer fit. My choice for a replacement that isn't something "modern" boils down to moon discs.
Sniper1
Well-known member
Sniper1
Well-known member
Sniper1
Well-known member
Sniper1
Well-known member
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Looks like it worked out good, sniper. Should have plenty of grip.
Torchie
Well-known member
There a lot more room inside those fenders the people realize.
Even with my Dodge lowered and channeled
I’m running wider then stock tires.
Plus they are 29” tall as well.
Yours looks great.
Torchie
Even with my Dodge lowered and channeled
I’m running wider then stock tires.
Plus they are 29” tall as well.
Yours looks great.
Torchie
Old Iron
Well-known member
They always look better with a set of wider tires
