56 Ford Fairlane hardtop.

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
LB, I've had a wee bit more time to mourn my luck, so pulling the motor is only a grumble session now for me.
Bama, no, no, no, I'm a huge Y-block fan, so a Y-block is the only choice. And I have a 351W sitting in a shed whispering to me.
 
You'll see from the first picture that there is no more vibration in my '56. The second tells what happened. I'm going to knock it down to a short block and take it to town to get checked over professionally. If the crank is wonky, I have a pair of old 312's sitting there waiting to be donors.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3175.jpg
    IMG_3175.jpg
    165.3 KB
  • IMG_3176.jpg
    IMG_3176.jpg
    152.8 KB
Oh Yeah, Y Block or no block! I'm no purist but some things just belong the way they came, (with a few tweaks maybe) :rolleyes:
Is there a neoprene seal cure for the old rope seal on on the crank?
 
Still no news from the machine shop.
ZZ, the 292s weren't such a problem as the 312's but I hope there is a new seal. I remember reading a 'Perfect Circle' ad that was bragging that they had a neoprene 312 seal that was the cat's meow.
 
My machinist phoned to tell me that my Y-block was not a 292 like it was supposed to be, it was a 272, probably with a 292 crankshaft. He says that the 292 crank will fit into a 272, but it is balanced for bigger pistons [heavier], heavier rods, and higher compression so it will not be balanced for the little motor. I don't feel too bad not putting it back in the car. There have been a couple of 312's stored here for a long time, so I took them into the machinist and told him to get to work. That's plan B.
Plan C is, I take a pretty good 1957 292 in to get rebuilt. [I was saving that one for my Model A.]
Anyhow, I made an outside mirror bracket extension today. The passenger side mirror was hidden behind the 'A' pillar, so of no value, so I figured out how to get it functional. I unscrewed the mirror head off of the pedestal and made a 2" extension out of a kitchen sink water pipe. Then put the new gismo back together with the mirror 2 inches further back. It works.
The seat backs on two door Fords get leaning back further and further, so I made a spacer to put under the driver-side back stopper and that brought the seat up nicely.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3189.jpg
    IMG_3189.jpg
    116.4 KB
  • IMG_3190.jpg
    IMG_3190.jpg
    114.6 KB
That's what I'm hoping, Soltz.
I took the extension apart again and primed and painted the 3/4" band that was just iron pipe that held the female threads.
The passenger seat-back is now brought forward and I started adjusting the door windows. On a hardtop the door windows shouldn't go to high or shouldn't lean in or out, so I fiddled around inside the door quite a bit today.
 
Better than drilling more holes in the door to move it back. When I put my swan necks on, I used two of the three holes in the drivers door and put a stainless carriage bolt in the other. The passenger side, I measured the drivers side and marked and drilled. Should have had somebody hold the mirror up while I sat in the drivers seat, it ended up being where it's partially in the wing window and I have to bend over to see that side. One time where trying to look cool didn't work as good.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top