65 F100 drag truck

[BlueNorther]

love the patina, and the overall concept of the truck.

but if you are going to put some serious HP in it for the strip, you,ll want to get the front lower.

I would z the frame just in front of the firewall about 4", and try to keep as much air as possible from going under the truck.

and build a cover for the bed with a 4-6" high spoiler at the rear, or run a perferated tail gate. the stock tailgate in the up position is like a giant air brake.

also try blocking off some of the air going through the stock grill area, as too much air under the hood is a bad thing.

 

[reaper969x]

Thanx Blue,

This truck is just gonna be a little 10 sec street truck. Small block with a lil spray The frame needs to stay stock, except for the c in the back. The classes that I might run say stock suspension, and frame rails. I think the spoiler and bed cover would take away from the look of the truck, that I want. If this were a max effort drag project I would be building something more "slippery" anyway, LOL.
The whole Idea is the look of suprise, when somebody gets whacked by a "ratty old truck w/cool wheels"

 

[BruceKoukalaka]

Sounds like something I'd be building. A spoiler looks dumb on a pickup in my opinion along with too tall of rims with no rubber to speak of 20s and so on[S I applaud your plan and hope only the best for it [cl[cl[cl That all being said I do agree with a tonneau cover for the bed as it will be just like a parachute open in the back with the tailgate up

 

[reaper969x]

Bruce you sir are right. I got something cookin for the bed and dont really want to cover it up. The tailgate is easliy one of the heaviest peices on the truck, so its going on a diet as well as getting some holes in it. Im just trying to figure it out so it dosent look like it got attacked by a holesaw!

 

[reaper969x]

Ugh, just when I was getting rolling!!!

Ive used this thing a handful of times since I bought it new in Jan. Called 3 times today with no reply from EASTWOOD's tech department. I will see what the resolution is and how long it takes before I start bitchin'

 

[BruceKoukalaka]

Ugh, just when I was getting rolling!!!

Ive used this thing a handful of times since I bought it new in Jan. Called 3 times today with no reply from EASTWOOD's tech department. I will see what the resolution is and how long it takes before I start bitchin'

All I can say is ouch not good

 

[reaper969x]

Well parts for the plasma cutter came today. I guess the "hassle free" warranty means EASTWOOD sends you parts to fix your own **** with out a hassle.
Gotta go hustle a couple jobs so I can buy some parts for this heap. Updates coming soon.
Matt

 

[skull]

[P

Later

 

[reaper969x]

If you expect to get air under the front tires you'll definitely need to beef the frame. Those F100's twist and bow badly without. Cool truck.

LOL! SAM, I have the frame up on the "jig" to start the finish welding and the words were echoing in my head[S. So for for reference I did some frame twist/flex measuring. Mind you I have removed some crossmembers and will be adding more and a cage in the big scheme of things[. It looks like it twists 6.5" plus. I shot some pics Ill upload them this afternoon.
MATT

 

[sawzall]

reaper969x,
What size and make are your front tires?

 

[Sam_Fear]

Guy posted some pics of his 66 getting air with a stock frame - looked like the cab and box were about 20 degrees bent, not to mention the twist. He planned to box the frame after he saw those pics.

Ever seen this one? Factory Experimental - only one, I think it still exists too.

 

[reaper969x]

Ok I lifted one corner of the frame until the other corner started to lift and measured it 6.75 ish. Im gonna repeat this procedure once the frame if welded and ready for the body, and again once the cage gets tied in.

 

[reaper969x]

Got a little done today. Picked up a tubing notcher, and started on the rear, gonna work my way forward.

 

[reaper969x]

Need some advice. I literally have 9.5 lbs of sh@# stuffed in my 5 lbs of garage. Wich means that I now have too roll my unfinished chassis out to bring the cab in to replace the floorboards. I have to to this in order to set the body on the chassis to get some measurements that I didnt get the first time around. I guess I got excited when I set the body on the first time, and got in a hurry.
The question I have is what would be my best option to paint the frame with to protect it while its outside. I know primer is not a sealer, and will absorb moisture. Im not done with the frame and am looking for something that will protect it, prevent rust, provide a good base for future paint, but still be something I can grind off to finish welding and such. Oh and not break the bank. Not asking much huh?

Maybe Im just over thinking this.
Thanx in advance
MATT

 

[cycledog]

I like this stuff. Used it many times with no disappointments.

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/stop-rust-paints.html

I have also used this stuff with good results.

http://www.rustbullet.com/

 

[Neverdone]

Looks like your ties should work well! 6.75" of flex seems like a lot for a soon to be drag truck! What kind of notcher did you get? I have been looking at them myself.

 

[BlueNorther]

any updates???

 

[gold03]

I'm not familiar with the 2003 crowd Vic. Do the front ends bolt in? All aluminium?

Gold03

 

[Tude]

Guy posted some pics of his 66 getting air with a stock frame - looked like the cab and box were about 20 degrees bent, not to mention the twist. He planned to box the frame after he saw those pics.

Ever seen this one? Factory Experimental - only one, I think it still exists too.

As I scrolled through Facebook less than 5 mins ago I spotted something in the background I thought was odd, closed Facebook saw I had replied on here somewhere so I hit the last page..... I found it rather odd

 

[Tude]

I'm not familiar with the 2003 crowd Vic. Do the front ends bolt in? All aluminium?

Gold03

They can be all aluminum or alum cradle with steel lower arms. I'm not sure what came from what however.