Bamamav's 1947 Lincoln Club Coupe build

[Dr Crankenstein]

Shaft size is larger on the EFI engines, .531 vs .467 on old points distributors.

I think they change things just to change things. (What appreciable difference or "improvement" is there in .064 diameter, anyhow?)

Thanks for the explanation and sorry 'bout the $80.

.

 

[Bamamav]

Found a gear at Jegs for $69. A little cheaper but not much. If you gotta have it, you gotta have it I guess.

Dr C, they also made the shaft 1" longer, but kept the same pump shaft. Engineers I guess just wanted to do something different to look like they were doing their job.

 

[Bamamav]

I thought this stuff was supposed to be fun

I thought this stuff was supposed to be fun. Got my motor mount stands finished today with the exception of a little tack welding on them.



Decided to go ahead and yank the motor and address the trans fitment. When I put it together, it wouldn't pull completely together, so i just stuck it in anyway knowing I would have to pull it to do my finish welding on the mounts. It came out fine, got the transmission pulled off, reclocked the torque converter 3 times to make sure it was fully seated, it seemed to be. Put the unit back together, started snugging the bolts, looking good, nope, still has a gap of about the tip of a screwdriver on the sides, top was fine.




Torque converter looked seated, so I backed off all the bolts, jiggled the trans, started snugging them up a little on each side, looked to be pulling up right. Then this happened---



Case busted, destroying the transmission.

I've had it with this thing.

A friend has a powerglide, I'm thinking about buying it and putting the 350 Chevy back in. I thought it would be simple to change it over to the Ford 302, but this thing has fought me every step of the way. I'm sick of it. I wanted it to be a Ford in a Ford product, but it ain't gonna happen. It will cheaper and easier to just put the Chevy back in, all I will have to do is get a Hurst front style mount from Speedway and everything else will bolt right back up. Oh yeah, I will have to find a power steering pump and bracket for the Chevy, but that should be easy. So, now I have to get some money up for the trans and mounts. Maybe I can get it going before fall.

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

Sorry to see and hear.

You have the worst luck, Bama... look up... is there a black cloud following you everywhere you go?

.

 

[Bamamav]

DR, I know you meant that in fun, but I'm beginning to think there is a black cloud over me lately. Seems like the only luck I have is bad.

 

[Willowbilly3]

When chevy guys work on Fords, frustration is bound to ensue. Us Ford guys learn patience and take it as a challange and are thankful our parts tend to not be as jacked with as the chevy stuff that floats around. All that said, I hope you came away smarter about trying to pull stuff together with the bolts when it's balky. We've all done it, and it usually turns out the same, something broken or messed up. End of scolding, keep the faith, step back away from it for a little and things will get a new momentum.
BTW, I've welded up worse stuff than that bell housing. You wouldn't even have to take it apart, just take it to a welder with the mid-plate to line it up, pretty simple fix.

 

[Bamamav]

That's the funny thing about it WB, I did go back and take it apart, 3-4 times, measured, sandpapered the dowels, made sure all the holes were free and that the bolts didn't bottom out in the blind holes. I have pulled some together that were a lot more stubborn than this one was, I didn't have much pressure on the bolts at all, I had the trans and engine level, the gap was about the same top and sides, I worked all the bolts about the same turns. I did it the same way I've done hundreds of installs, slow and easy. Just for some reason this one wouldn't go together. I still don't know what caused it to bind in that last little bit. Flexplate was on right, was correct size, as a matter of fact, it was the one originally on this engine with an AOD behind it. The converter dropped in, the studs were almost even with the bellhousing face, hub on converter went all the way into crank afaik. And I was using a 6" 3/8" drive ratchet, not a impact wrench, and really wasn't putting out on it.

Going to price some transmissions next week and see what I can find. Might still end up with a Ford in a Ford, but it's more likely to end up with the Chevy back in it. I don't give up easily, but I don't have time to keep fooling around, either. I want this car back on the road before I get stupid and sell it as is. that I would regret I know.

 

[Old Iron]

Just be aware, if you use this style motor mount, the factory mechanical fuel pump won't bolt up and you'll have to run an electric one.
You also should run a mid-plate or bellhousing mounts with it.
The distance from the front mount and the tranny tailshaft mount creates too much pressure on the bellhousing and it could break the tranny housing.

 

[Bamamav]

Electric pump, so no worries there. Don't see how moving the mounting point forward that 4" would make that much difference. I could see it on a SBF where the mount would move about 8".
Side mounts on the drivers side are just about impossible with the steering box in the way. The way it was mounted before, the side mount was only on the front hole of the block engine side mount. They torched off the back part of the mount to clear the original steering box, the power box is even wider. Only way to use a side mount on that side would be to "L" bracket it from in front of the box back to the mount, then I would be afraid it would bend down. Might have to do that though.

 

[Noah Zarq]

BTW, I've welded up worse stuff than that bell housing. You wouldn't even have to take it apart, just take it to a welder with the mid-plate to line it up, pretty simple fix.

+1 for welding it up. I've had manual bellhousings welded up that were in worse shape, and they held up under heavy abuse. I would check all the holes just to make sure everything is jiving properly.

 

[Bamamav]

If so much of the bellhousing wasn't visible, I might try to have it welded up, but finding a welder around here would be hard, not many aluminum welders around.

Looks like something in the first AOD was screwed up, pump, shaft, still not sure. I drug my other AOD out, tried the converter from the first one, it fell right into place at the proper depth. Tried it again on the broken one, it still wouldn't go down far enough. I'm going to pull the pan off the second one, clean the gunk out, change the filter and front seal, and use the torque converter from the broke one. There was no rust on the trans shafts like I thought, only the torque converter hub shaft, and looking into the pan through the dipstick hole, I see some trash, but no water, so I'm hoping it will be OK.

So it looks like the Ford in a Ford product is a go again!

 

[smallfoot]

Got our fingers crossed!

 

[Torchie]

Hang in there Bama.
Don't give up and don't sell it. Every time I walk into my garage I regret that my project (Or any project) is not still there.
Good to hear that the second trans fits the right way.
[P [P [P
Torchie

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

You deserve a break... no pun intended!

.

 

[Bamamav]

Cooler heads have prevailed.

Drug out my other AOD trans, it got some water that leaked into the pan through the dipstick hole, but the pan was only about half full of a gooey water trans fluid mix, internals looked good and shiney, so it got a new filter and seals and the torque converter from the busted trans that went in properly the first try! Tried the TC from this trans on the busted one, it wouldn't seat right either, so I suspect shaft or pump damage I didn't know about.

Put the unit back together and it's now back on it's mounts in the car. [cl
Now have to put the trans mount back on, new yoke on driveshaft, exhaust, shift linkage, plumbing and wiring. Things should start moving a little faster now.

Tired of seeing this

 

[Bamamav]

Got a little windfall profit today, so I ordered my carb and radiator. Got a 600 Summit carb, vacuum secondaries, square base, looks like an old Autolite carb. I have one on the 460 in my motor home, and it works great, so that is what I went with. Also ordered a Champion aluminum 5.0 conversion radiator for a 66 Mustang. From what I've heard and read, the USA made Champion is a good, quality product, it should cool the stock 5.0 just fine. Get those next week, ad I can start buying the smaller things I need to get it all together. Lots of work left still, and the 93*, 95% humidity days limit my working time. I'm a puss in extremely hot weather like this, rode in an Air conditioned truck too many years, done spoiled me......

 

[soltz]

Making good progress, little steps work [cl
I ran a Champion custom made in my Willys with the 5.0 and it worked great and their only 15 miles away.

 

[Torchie]

great to see that you got the motor/trans issue worked out and back into the car.[cl [cl [cl
I'm not much good in the heat anymore either. Hard on my heart. Makes me wonder how I spent all those hot summer nights baking for a living.
keep at it Bama.
Torchie

 

[Bamamav]

Finally, a little progress! It was hot, but I managed to get the new Champion radiator mocked in place. Still need to make the side supports, was just to hot to be cutting steel yesterday. Bottom hose was a pain, had to run it under the sway bar, hope it will last that way. Have a sleeve on it, so maybe it won't rub a hole in it. Was going to set the carb and intake, but found out I was out of silicone....10 minutes after the parts store closed. Oh well, one thing at a time!
Will probably end up building a shroud, know I want a flat cover on top extending back to the fan anyway. See how it cools without a shroud first.

DSCF0823 by Bobby Atkins, on Flickr
DSCF0822 by Bobby Atkins, on Flickr
DSCF0821 by Bobby Atkins, on Flickr
DSCF0820 by Bobby Atkins, on Flickr
DSCF0818 by Bobby Atkins, on Flickr

 

[earthman]

Good to see positive progress Bam.