Bamamav's 1947 Lincoln Club Coupe build

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Managed to get a little done today between thunderstorms.:eek: Even though I'm working under a roof on a concrete floor, when it starts lightning close by, I get inside!:eek:

Got the pittman arm off the replacement steering box, then took the S10 box off the car. Discovered the shaft was a little more misaligned than I thought, so I'm going to change to a U joint and DD shaft instead of the factory GM shaft and rag joint. The replacement Firebird box is 2.75 turns, lock to lock, so I'm thinking it might steer faster, don't know. The S10 box was fine until you put fluid in it with the pump, then it got a sticking spot at dead center. So hard in fact, it took a bit of effort to get it off center, causing it to jerk. Knew that wouldn't work on the road, so it's getting replaced. Never had one do that, it steered manually just fine, no tight spot. [S

Next, I'm putting the FBird box on, then putting some bracing on the motor mounts, just not quite happy with them yet. They would probably be fine, but I'd rather be a little overbuilt and have no worries.

Nothing picture worthy, yet.
Astro vans have a nice little intermediate shaft with two slightly offset u-joints that were perfect for taking the "bump" out of the steering in my 39. I added a double-d shaft to get the right length, and used a piece of the S10 column for a sleeve. Best of all, they are a lot cheaper than aftermarket u-joints. Pics if you want/need them.
 
Next, I'm putting the FBird box on, then putting some bracing on the motor mounts, just not quite happy with them yet. They would probably be fine, but I'd rather be a little overbuilt and have no worries. Over built is never a bad thing[P[P
 
I know about the Astro van shaft, I missed getting one the day I got the first box. That yard has since closed and the nearest one is about 80 miles away. I found a joint and shaft on ebay for $ 60, cheaper than driving over there to get one.

Was going back through this thread last night, can't believe it's been 5 years since this thing was on the road. I have gotten slow!
 
I know about the Astro van shaft, I missed getting one the day I got the first box. That yard has since closed and the nearest one is about 80 miles away. I found a joint and shaft on ebay for $ 60, cheaper than driving over there to get one.

Was going back through this thread last night, can't believe it's been 5 years since this thing was on the road. I have gotten slow!
That's a good price these days. I guess I'm lucky having a bazillion yards withing a few minutes drive. Always tradeoffs...
 
Don't feel bad, Bama. I've got a project aging in the garage too. Two surprises, You don't have any salvage yards close to you in Alabama and Skip has yards close to him.
 
We used to have several yards around here, but when scrap went so high, a lot of them sold out and closed up, and the others were older guys who died off and the family sold everything. There is one yard about 15 miles from me, but they won't let anybody on it, they pull parts for you, insurance I guess. So, I'm taking a chance on the eBay joint and shaft, at $50, cheaper than I wrote above, I hope it's a good one, looks good in the pic, anyway.

Put the Firebird box on today, pinched the crap outta my palm putting the pitman arm on!:eek: The box feels good, hope it's better than the S10 box was. Also started on the motor mount reinforcement project, got a couple pieces cut ready to weld on hopefully tomorrow. Not bad for a couple of hours work.
 
OK, OK I hear ya! A couple of teasers....
 

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Some days you might as well stay in bed.:rolleyes: Had hopes of getting the engine in today, but it ain't happening.:(

Decided to change the rear seal on the motor before I buttoned it up. Wasn't leaking, but unknown age made me think it wise to just go ahead an do it now instead of it leaking a month down the road. Bought a seal at Oreilly's, FelPro, $25 :eek:. Turned out it had a goofy plastic sleeve installation tool with it, supposed to slip it in seal, then over the crank hub, and bump seal in. Yeah, right. Damn plastic piece cut the lip off the seal somehow. :mad::mad::mad: It was a teflon seal, it said install it dry, so I did. Last time I follow instructions.:rolleyes:

Just ordered one from Rock Auto since I won't get another chance for a few weekends to work on it again, a FelPro rubber seal this time. And it WILL be lubed when I put it in, no matter what the instructions say. $15 for this one, hope it works better.:rolleyes:
 
Got another couple of hours in on the old girl yesterday. I had already mounted the replacement Firebird steering box, but it was just out of alignment enough that a single U joint wasn't going to work. I cut a couple of shims and placed between the box and the frame, and then I took the lower column mount loose. I was able to drop the column about 1/8" to get a better alignment, and with the shimmed box, I was now well in alignment range. I cut the DD shaft to length, slipped it up in the column, and back down into the U joint, perfect. Marked and drilled the DD shaft for the set screws at the joint end, left the top to slide if there was an accident it would collapse into the column. Whole lot of work but only a pic of the completed shaft, lol. Got to take it back apart though, my ******* forgot to route the wiring harness above the shaft. :rolleyes: Maybe next time I will get to the rear seal and reinstalling the motor.
 

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I'm taking notes, Bama. I have a 40 ford axle that will go under something and will need a similar treatment, I believe.
 

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