BMW V8 powered T

Rat Rods Rule

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You likely know this already, but just in case...

If the rear tires are actually sitting like they look like they are sitting, the inside treads will wear out long before the outside treads. If I remember my Jag geometry, the axles should be leve at ride height. The stance does look good, though.
 
You likely know this already, but just in case...

If the rear tires are actually sitting like they look like they are sitting, the inside treads will wear out long before the outside treads. If I remember my Jag geometry, the axles should be leve at ride height. The stance does look good, though.

Yes, the rear negative camber is ridiculous. The jag rear end wasn't set up so sit so low. Good news is I can shim the axle from the brake rotors to square up those wheels again.
 
Still working from back to front. Started adding rear anti-roll bars:





I need to modify a few of the anti-roll bar kit parts to fit this build. Also plan to move the mounting under the frame so the bar runs over the top of the diff pinion, need to shorten the heim joint links.

So, parts are on order and I'm on a parts hold. I guess I'll just sit here in the shop enjoying the perspective.

 
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I'll bet you're sitting in it making motor noises. Your roadster is one of the coolist builds I've seen in a long while.
 
This weekends progress:

Finished the rear anti-roll bar. Made fuel tank straps. Lowered the radiator mounting so the supercharger pulley can peek out above the grill and started sectioning the grill for ground clearance.







 
Coming up with a plan for the cowl steering. Using a 70's F100 steering gear.



Needed to reverse the rotation of the steering gear by removing the input shaft & worm gear. Flipping it around so the input is on the other side of the housing. Blocking off the hole for the old input. A seal is on order or the new input location.



I liked the original layout, with the input shaft higher then the output shaft. But there wasn't a way to reverse the roation without moving the input shaft so I'll make it work as is.

Getting an idea of steering rod height, location, gearbox mounting and pitman arm swing to clear the body.



A Sprint Car style pitman arm is on order for the extended length of mounting the gear high in the cab but keeping the steering rod low.
 
Not a whole lot accomplished the last couple weeks, moved the car to my work where it sat on display for a couple weeks while a Tbucket event came through our town.







While it was at work I was able to get going on the fuel system. In tank pump & fuel level sending unit installed, made hard lines and -6an steel braided lines.











I tried to run as much hard line as possible. I'd make a line, kink a bend & start over. Then I began running out of hard line so when a bend would kink I'd cut it there then run the steel braided lines. It's not perfect but it'll work.

Since I'm planning on keeping the tank out in the open, I'll cut the body for the fuel lines so it'll appear the lines are disappearing into the body.
 
Looks good.[cl :D :cool:
What was the reaction from the T-Bucket brigade?
[P [P [P
Torchie

The few that came by were supportive, some liked seeing something different. Others were being nice about it even if they didn't approve or get it.

The engine itself does appear very exotic, despite being mass produced you don't ever see it in this form. So I'm sure even the most traditionalist gearhead can have even some appreciation, otherwise if it had a SBC/TH350 it would be just another mail ordered plastic Tbucket copy.
 
The basic skeleton of the steering gear mounting, still need to gusset, add supports and braces to get rid of as much flex as possible. But so far the .250" wall 2"x2" square tube stock is some stout stuff.





















 

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