Custom Mopar ????

[smallfoot]

What tranny and motor did you get in the s10?

 

[smallfoot]

If you got a 4.3 motor the tranny could probably work unless it was something you just didn't want. 4.3 same as sbc bolt pattern.

 

[Skip]

A balmy 18 degrees and snow here today and this just showed up in my front yard.
99 S-10. 2 Wheel drive long wheel base. 122.9 inches
The Dodge's Wheel base is 123.5 Inches. So I think I can get it where it needs to be without having to cut the frame.[cl
I"m done flip flopping on the frame for this project. This will be it(Unless a beautiful stock 49-50 Dodge coronet frame falls from the sky. ).
So all you S-10 guys out there clue me in on doing a V-8 swap.
I suspect it will be a SBC as at this point I need to go with what works best.
Are you using the kits that are available or what??? HELP.
Torchie

The kits are for putting a V8 in an S10. Odds are against needing to move the engine in that direction. On my 39, I centered the front fenders, and added the cab, more or less. Then you can sort out where you need to stick the engine. You should have more working room than the S10 engine bay has. I used stock motor mounts with slight modifications. Knowing what I know now, I might have done it a bit differently.

The rear axle can be adjusted with an adapter plate, with a pin on it, that hooks over the stock spring pin, and relocates the axle. These are available for centering the axle on an S10. I am sure you can make one to your specs. You will most likely be softening up the rear springs anyway.

You are lucky to have a pattern for setting up the body mounts on the new frame.

You should be able to get some serious rubber under it now. You may need to tub the rear. Stock S10 rear is good up to around 400HP.

 

[Torchie]

What tranny and motor did you get in the s10?

If you got a 4.3 motor the tranny could probably work unless it was something you just didn't want. 4.3 same as sbc bolt pattern.

Thanks smallfoot.
First S-10 lesson learned. It is supposed to be a 4.3. Claimed to run but missing the radiator and the altenator.
I wast't really concerned in regards to the motor. Just the condition of the frame. But if the Trans will work with a SBC V8. So much the better.
I'm going to try to get out to it tomorrow for a close up look see.
This was another great FB market place find. He sent about 2 dozen pics of the frame and although surface rust. no rot.
For $300 delivered(in 18 degree weather) i think I will be fine.
Of course I will also use the MC brake pedal and parts of the column. I think it has buckets in it so I may be able to peddle those and a few other things to get some money back.
Hopefully some up close pics tomorrow.
Torchie

 

[Torchie]

The kits are for putting a V8 in an S10. Odds are against needing to move the engine in that direction. On my 39, I centered the front fenders, and added the cab, more or less. Then you can sort out where you need to stick the engine. You should have more working room than the S10 engine bay has. I used stock motor mounts with slight modifications. Knowing what I know now, I might have done it a bit differently.

The rear axle can be adjusted with an adapter plate, with a pin on it, that hooks over the stock spring pin, and relocates the axle. These are available for centering the axle on an S10. I am sure you can make one to your specs. You will most likely be softening up the rear springs anyway.

You are lucky to have a pattern for setting up the body mounts on the new frame.

You should be able to get some serious rubber under it now. You may need to tub the rear. Stock S10 rear is good up to around 400HP.

Thanks Skip.
I have heard of the relocating plates for the rear axle. I will be putting a SBC in it. I would have liked all MOPAR but at this point just to get the body down on a running frame would be huge.
I'm sure there will be a need for some ride height adjustment.
Not looking to fill the back wells with tires in fact I'm leaning towards running the stock Dodge steel wheels (As I now have 9 of them) with some period correct wide whites and the 50 Olds wheel covers I have. I will require adapters to go from the GM bolt pattern to the Dodge.
Torchie

 

[DozerII]

Great score Torchie, one less thing to worry about. [P[P

 

[Torchie]

Cold as my heart outside again today but i got out to the donor S-10 with no Torchie's being hurt in the shooting of these pics.
4.3 V6 as told. So it should have the 4L60E trans.
Missing the altenator. radiator and distributor. As told.
Couldn't get my fat hands down in to see if I could turn it over.
Checked for things I could strip off it to resell. Looks like there will be some stuff.
So after spending the morning researching I'm considering just using this V6 in the Dodge. If I get it running.
My reasons.
Cost effective.[cl
Durable engines.
Less work.Thank you very much.
And it would make it different ,yet again ,from the many customs being built out there.
I love a throaty V8 as much as the next person but if I hope to get this thing even rolling in my life time things have to go easier and quicker.
And based on what I've read I can do some fairly reasonable add ons to wake this engine up a bit.
As always. All thoughts and opinions are encouraged. I've already learned a lot this morning which is what helps me to keep the brain cells from decaying.
Torchie

 

[Skip]

Lookin' good. [cl

 

[Bamamav]

I've still got some 4.3 engine parts around here Torchie, think I have a distributor or two, but not sure what model, 88ish maybe. When it gets warm enough to play with it, I can look and see what I have and if you can use it, I can send it your way., for the shipping costs. I know I'll never use it.

 

[bob w]

I drove a S-10 with a 4.3 for years and liked everything about it. It towed my dragster and the Crosley with ease. It will be fine in a custom cruiser.

 

[joedoh]

So after spending the morning researching I'm considering just using this V6 in the Dodge. If I get it running.

judging by the electrical distribution box on the drivers inner fender, its a 98+, and by the small airbag its probably a 2000+.

some tips for you, I use these donors almost exclusively

the 190 hp and 250 tq of the vortec 98+ is only slightly less than a TBI 350 from a decade earlier (210 hp 300 tq).

the engine can be converted to carb easily but the 4l60e trans cant be converted to analog easily. my advice is to use the harness and electronics, including the column, its not easy to adapt a different column.

this generation of truck will have a BCM (body control module) in addition to the PCM (powertrain control module) so its advisable to use ALL the wiring, everything, including the body harness. in a lot of ways it is pretty easy because it gives you everything including lights and interior wiring.

you can also choose to have the PCM programmed by a tuner to make it a "4 wire" (ground, 12v+, 12v+ ign, and start) setup, this is an easy way to keep the efi and electronic trans, and doesnt cost a lot really, usually ~$300 to modify the harness and ~$100 to program the anti theft and BCM out of the computer (which is why you keep the column and BCM when you keep the wiring). $400 sounds high, and really might be because everyone and their mom does this work nowadays. but a "coupon" for hypertuners is $100 per vin so it will be at least that. for perspective, the standalone for the 4l60e trans would be ~$400 by itself, plus carb and intake, so its really six of one half dozen of the other.

if its a 2003 it will be a LU3 engine, slightly more torque and uses real injectors
instead of the spider poppets of the L35. you can find the engine code in the glovebox or on the sticker on the firewall behind the distributor. nothing wrong with L35s, most had the injector upgrade done somewhere in their history.

all 4.3 vortec suffer from intake gasket failure. the factory is nylon, if you need to replace use fel pro or any others that are STEEL BACKED.

when you pull the cab off, the trans cable for the shifter runs through the floor in front of the drivers seat. you will pop the socket at the shifter, there is a steel staple that holds the "wings" on the bracket that you need to take out before compressing the wing tabs. then there is a nylon push connector at the gas pedal.

the gas pedal and mount is nice for reuse, I actualy cut out that part of the firewall, easy to weld in a new firewall.

the brake pedal will not swap over without an interface bracket, let me know if you are going to use it because I have the geometry worked out 100% and can make you a 5 degree weld in firewall plate and a pedal bracket that bolts to it and even lets you use the booster too. you will need to attach it on the dash side but I might be able to help with that too.

your chassis at 123 sounds like an EXT CAB, not a long bed, long beds were 118. the rear axle (on 98+) as a result will have a 4 bolt flange instead of a u joint pinion with saddles. the factory driveshaft has a double cardan joint (again, only on 98+) and is worth a hundred bucks if its in good shape. I have the part number to get the correct flange from a driveshaft shop, neapco N3R-2-8268. you will need a new u joint from spicer, I think a 3R (as in the part number?) but I know its the one that comes stock on the rear of a 98+ std cab 2wd S10.

I usually move the motor back 7-8 inches in the trucks i do, as much as 10 inches in the 41-46 trucks, so that could be a good guideline.

your pattern changing adapters (5 on 4.75 to 5 on 4.5) will take care of the narrower track width.

dont waste money on a rad till you know it will fit your chassis. keep in mind the popular 19x22 rads have an angle on the lower outlet, which is helpful at pointing towards the water pump on a 36" wide rad but points it at the crank pulley on a 22" wide rad. you will need a trans cooler, dont cheap out, a plate B&M or a rad mounted cooler is best. that truck will have an oil cooler in the rad too stock, but you dont need it, and the cooler adapter and lines are easily removed. the lines already likely leak and you are better off without it with modern oil anyway.

if you DO use the harness and column (I do on every truck), you will need EVERYTHING, nothing can be excluded. there is a thing about the headlights, they are ground triggered, not 12v like every other car and truck on the planet, and there are separate bulbs for high and low so you will need to understand the system. I can help if that is what you go for. i love being able to lay the harness in about 2 hrs and start the truck, some people love new harnesses and the hours of stringing and plannning. potato potahto.

these are low trucks stock, and easy to make lower, so get it set up before buying lowering parts, you may not need them.

distributors are cheap, like $60 for a new one with cap and rotor.


any questions just ask! I have done 11 s10 swaps, most with 98+ like your donor. If there exists a problem I have seen it!

 

[joedoh]

oh one more thing.

the reason to keep the column is for the PASSKEY VATS. there is no chip in the key but there is a chip in the column and it requires you to turn the key to use it. if you are cranking and the "security" light on the dash is flashing, you need to do a relearn. i have seen a lot of trucks for sale and get parted with this problem. easy fix.

 

[DozerII]

Joedoh you are one of the reasons this site is the best anywhere.

 

[Torchie]

Joedoh you are one of the reasons this site is the best anywhere. ����������

^^^^Agreed!!^^^^
I was hoping you would weight in Joedoh. Thank you.
Truck is supposedly a 99. (No title).
Yes it's an extended cab. 123" wheel base. Which is why I went for it. My Dodge is 123.5"
I will use as much off of it as is possible including the brake pedal set up and MC booster. So PM about your interface bracket.
The $400 I mentioned was for a complete Mercruiser EFI intake set up. Apparently it works much better then the stock GM. Found out about it on a S-10 site.
I understand about the harness, trans etc. as the only other full frame swap I was ever involved with was on the 50 GMC panel truck that my Brother built and I finished. We used ALL the electronics off of the donor GMC Sierra including the gauges. It was set up so you could roll into any GM dealership and they could still plug it into their computer to trouble shoot it..
I was looking at the out put for this engine and agree that it's not far off(If at all) from what used to be a stock SBC. Which is why I'm considering using it intact.
I don't have a key for it and noticed that the steering wheel turns but doesn't turn the front wheels. It just clicks. So some body put the hurt on that part of it.
I'm not a big fan of wheel adapters/spacers but I know it would save me from either putting in a 4x4 rear end or something else to get the width I need. It has 15" steel wheels on it now but as i said I'd want to run 50 Olds full wheel covers and I know that they fit well on the stock Dodge wheels.
Wether I do the V8 swap will depend on me getting the V6 started and it's condition there after, so all of this may have to wait till spring.
I'm also thinking about perhaps a Firewall exchange from the S-10 into the Dodge. I'll need to do some measurements first though.
No intention of modifying the ride height UNTIL I get the Dodge body on it as It looks lower then the stock Dodge chassis already.
Moving forward.....
Torchie

 

[Old Iron]

[P[P[P

 

[joedoh]

sounds good. if you just want MPI you can buy the injector kit that replaces the spider poppets and turns the original intake into MPI. the advantage of the mercruiser intake is i believe just for forced induction, the ability to change the injectors to a larger size, which you cant do with the MPI upgrade. every truck I have dad with the MPI injectors starts faster and idles smoother. you can get the kit on rock auto for cheap, says 210

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=984643&cc=1353642&jsn=943

if you have time, take off the intake (the tube to the throttle body, not the whole intake!) and hold the throttle plate wide open and look inside with a flashlight. if it hasnt been converted you will just see 6 black tubes. if it has, you will see white tubes (with carbon) and two wires with a connector on each tube.

i will send you a pm on the pedal parts.

 

[Bamamav]

All that info made my head hurt!

Joedoh is for sure the King of S10 knowledge![cl[cl[cl

Reminds me of why I hate electronics so much and always get rid of it. I'm old school, I understand old stuff much better.

 

[Torchie]

All that info made my head hurt!

Joedoh is for sure the King of S10 knowledge![cl[cl[cl

Reminds me of why I hate electronics so much and always get rid of it. I'm old school, I understand old stuff much better.

I'm right there with you Bama. But I still love to learn about new (at least to me) things. Helps to keep my mind engaged and hopefully, sharp.(Don't ask Mrs. T about the sharp part. [ddd)
My one edge on this type of engine is my younger friend John. He's all over this stuff like you and I are with the old stuff Bama. He's the one I'm helping to put a 301 together for. But it's going to be EFI. So a mix of the old and the new. I like that.
Torchie

 

[kenny c]

Joedoh you are one of the reasons this site is the best anywhere.

Yup And everybody else. [cl[cl

 

[forbigpicture]

Joedoh, great info, thanks for sharing.

Keep on keepin' on Torchie !!!!

[cl[cl[cl

[P[P