Fiberglass bodies and wood...?

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
For the backrest, I used one solid piece of 1/2 inch plywood, and glassed it into place.

Picture 1 shows the stringers under and around the backrest.

Picture 2 shows the finished job

Picture 3 shows how I shaped each stringer to fit tight against the body.

And that is it. Simple, huh?

If you have to build a tunnel, let me know. I went through fits getting that right, but finally got a system that works.

Hope this helps you out.

Don
 

Attachments

  • t wooding continued 3 001.jpg
    t wooding continued 3 001.jpg
    61.6 KB
  • t wooding continued 3 005.jpg
    t wooding continued 3 005.jpg
    59.3 KB
  • t wooding continued 008.jpg
    t wooding continued 008.jpg
    60.6 KB
Last edited:
Oh, here is a picture of my tunnel. It is huge compared to most, because the car is so low and the engine is so high. I am sharing cockpit space with the tranny, so the tunnel was a real challange.


Don
 

Attachments

  • t tunnel repair done.jpg
    t tunnel repair done.jpg
    60.3 KB
  • t tunnel repair done 2.jpg
    t tunnel repair done 2.jpg
    61.3 KB
WOW..................! Thank you Don, you covered it all.........I'm glade you covered it all, I do have a background in fiberglass, but you taught me much more and I believe everyone else reading this post has learned something. I will keep you and everyone else informed on my progress.........
Thanks again Don.
 
You're very welcome, Tom. I hope I didn't offend you by going into very basic stuff, but I wasn't sure what experience you had. I'm glad you have some working knowledge of the process, that will make your task so much easier.

How about posting some pictures as you go? BTW, how are you going to get that body to rust properly. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :D

Don
 
It just dawned on me that I forgot to add some important details, not for Tom so much, but for anyone else who may have not done this before.

After you finish the topsides, flip the body over and tab in the bottom of the floor to the body, then run at least one layer of mat over the entire top and bottom of the plywood floor to waterproof it.

And finally, before you ever lay the piece of plywood down for the first time, coat the edges of the plywood with resin so that water can't enter it and delaminate it.

There are probably other points I've forgotten, but these are the basics.

Don
 
You're very welcome, Tom. I hope I didn't offend you by going into very basic stuff, but I wasn't sure what experience you had. I'm glad you have some working knowledge of the process, that will make your task so much easier.

How about posting some pictures as you go? BTW, how are you going to get that body to rust properly. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :D

Don


You can't offend me Don!...............;) , This is great information and I'm sure lot's of people are rethinking fiberglass!
I will have to say I plan on using steel box tubing also. Most of the major body companys use steel and wood.............My part of the country, like yours, is big into boat building and that is where my background in fiberglass comes from (limited as it may be). Steel is rarely if ever used.........but I think it has a place in car bodies..........at least mine.
Now I hope I haven't offended you...............By the way, Friday I'm off to Home Depot for some selsct pine.
Thanks
Tom
 
Last edited:
No, in fact, some factory '32 bodies have some steel in them. It just has to be bolted in, not bonded right to the fiberglass. It has been done, but usually will develop stress cracks because the two expand and contract differently.

I wanna see lots of pictures as you go. :D :D

Don
 
No, in fact, some factory '32 bodies have some steel in them.

Don

Correct, my Down’s bodied ’32 had quite a bit of steel tubing for reinforcement, and I believe the wood was oak.
You can see it in the pics if you look closely.

Jeff
 

Attachments

  • Dash-3.JPG
    Dash-3.JPG
    103.2 KB
  • Interior-1.JPG
    Interior-1.JPG
    78.8 KB
  • Trunk-1.JPG
    Trunk-1.JPG
    100.5 KB
It's a Speedway. All of these lower priced buckets are basically a bare shell, and you have to provide the wooding to make them strong. But for the money, Speedway makes a nice body.

Don
 
Question Professor?

Could I cut out my floor and firewall plywood pieces, then take the entire body to a fiberglass shop and have them coat the inside and the bottom of the bugger with a chop gun? Will this add enough strength to for-go the wooden stringers? My buddy is currently building a 23 t bucket and I am trying to learn as much as possible. His build doesn't have any of the strength adding wood in it as your does. Nice trans tunnel BTW. :)
 
Last edited:
Question Professor?
and have them coat the inside and the bottom of the bugger with a cop gun?

A cop gun :eek: . Won't that make some holes instead. Don works with boats. I'm sure he'll be on later to help out with answer. I was just kidding, I know you mean chop/chopper gun.
 
Thanks Hitman.

Well, I don't think so as far as omitting the stringers. Never seen it done that way. What is your opposition to doing the wood routine?


Don
 
Thanks Hitman.

Well, I don't think so as far as omitting the stringers. Never seen it done that way. What is your opposition to doing the wood routine?


Don

i'm pretty sure its the labor invloved. Just trying to think outside the box, which normally lands me in a heap of trouble.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top