International L122 B Binder Rat Build

[jmlcolorado]

I'm guessing the aluminum tube you were bending was the fuel lines?
I have always used steel 3/8 brake line - bought a roll several years ago and just used it up. Bends and flares pretty easily. The aluminum stuff is off my radar.

Easy to see why the pros use the braided flexible line - way cheaper than the labor to install the rigid stuff.

That new yoke is incredible - don't think I have ever seen a machined yoke before.

Probably should stick to steel lines. If these cause any problems, I'm ripping them out and putting in steel. Aluminum was hard to work with. Couldn't get a foot 180* bend without crushing it to save my life, and really didn't want to fill with sand.

I thought the same thing about the yolk!
My question earlier about proper crush sleeve torque is even more relevant now. This yolk has different dimensions than the old one so my whiteness marks I made I doubt are accurate now.
When I'm rebuilding the rear brakes, I think I'll pull the rear cover and see if I can remove the snap rings from the axles and let them loose from the fear and see if I can't torque it properly.

I hope the title works out for you. I went through not having a title or vin on my car and I know the feeling. Here in California the don't make it easy to do it the right way so you pretty much have to cheat the system

I hope it works out too!
I got a chasers check Saturday morning. I'll mail out tomorrow. Cross your fingers. I'll let you know what comes of it as soon as I hear back from them I guess.

 

[jmlcolorado]

I spent the day cleaning shop and once it was clean, it felt too weird, so had to make a mess to feel better about myself.
Decided to give mounting the ride height sensors a try.

I have to redo the rear c-notch because I moved the trailing arm crossmember forward an inch to center the rear wheels in the wheel wells. Of course, I notched the frame before I did this, so now the axle hits the front of the notch. Which keels the rear from dropping the last 1/2" or so.
I ordered a heavy duty notch kit since I liked that it adds much needed reinforcement. It's made of 3/8 plate and is supposed to match the contoures of the frame.
I'm waiting for that to arrive, so I'm not messing with the rear sensors.

In order to cycle the suspension through its full travel, I need 180 psi of air.
Shop compressor doesn't go that high, so the next best thing is the actuall tank and compressors on the truck.
So I rigged up the two compressors to the tank, installed a gauge and waited to see what happens.

Success!
http://youtu.be/sb9ugpoUpqY

It's quite slow in the rear when airing out. That will speed up once I add the weight of the body. The front is quick. Almost too quick. I might add some speed controls to the fronts if I can to slow it down a bit.
Raising is pretty on both front and rear.

Compressors pump to 200 psi. I think they'll go higher, but I'm too afraid to try.
I'm using DOT 3/8" air brake line. The connections are simply 1/2" NPT to 3/8" push connects. Now that I realize how much does sure this is, I don't trust the push connects very much. I know a lot of air guys run them, but I can't afford to loose a corner at speed. So I ordered 3/8" air brake compression fittings. Kinda pricey at $8 a piece, but it's worth peace of mind.

Front sensors installed.


It took a little finagling. These require no greater than 2.75" travel, so it took a little moving, marking, measuring, repeat to get then just right.

Once the rear sensors are mounted, I'll program all the heights for the system.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Got the heavy duty c-notches today. I opted for the heavy towing versions since I plan to haul motorcycles and buiodijg materials in the truck. I hope to actually use it as a truck. I won't ever hook a hitch to it.

These things are seriously built!
Look at the root weld on the right one.







Now, with these how they mount, I have to modify the bottoms to accommodate the 1/2" npt to 3/8" 90* fitting. That was a giant PITA before. Because it's a 90, you can't get a socket on to tighten it up, and it's surrounded on 2 sides. Plus recessed into the factory spring crossmember and the head on the fittings are only a quarter inch thick. Now I'm adding 3/8" to that. The fittings will be buried.
Suppose I'll have to install the fitting in the bag first, then install the bag.

I think that's the only way to do it.
Nice thing is these have bump stops built in with the exact design I was thinking of. One less thing for me to do. [cl
Once these are installed (hopefully tomorrow night) I think I'll be able to get the rear ride sensors installed, then ride heights programmed.

 

[jmlcolorado]

I know the UPS guy personally now. Literally. Helping him build his shop


Delivered a Painless Wiring chassis loom kit. I tried to find a decent amount of loom locally but no luck.
I REALY wish there was a good source locally for hot rod parts. AN fittings, quality loom, real brake line frame mounts, stuff like that.
The "performance" section of the auto parts stores ain't cutting it.

Also ordered a large collection of different size hose mounts to mount brake lines, air lines and wiring.

Ordered a Classic Performance Parts long adjustable trac bar.
The main reason I opted for the C10 chassis is vast availability of aftermarket performance parts for these trucks.
You could get a whole full tubular pro touring chassis and suspension setup if you really wanted to.
This leave it wide open for me to upgrade parts and handling of the truck as I go.

 

[DJ3100]

I have pretty much given up on trying to find parts locally. The braided brake lines I needed a couple months ago were twice as much locally as I got them for line.

I have gotten just about everything I have needed from Amazon including the braided split loom, AN fittings, triangulated 4 link, radiator caps and tires. Usually with free shipping and delivery in one or two days. Sometimes things like the Painless chassis loom kit are cheaper on Amazon than at Painless - sometimes not.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Well the goal tonight WAS to install both c-notches. Figured they were easy. I already had half the fram cut out. Just cut the rest and bolt it up.
Riiiight.

Remember I moved the rear ended forward 1 1/2"?
Well that threw off the shape of the c-notch match I g the frame.
I out it back to factory, but the axle was too far back in the new notch once it was in the right place. For I ended up having to I've it all forward 3/4". Split the difference. Nobody is going to see the axle is 3/4" off center from the wheel well except me.

This isn't exactly an easy task because the crossmember is wedged I side the c frame so it's very hard to transfer the holes and drill square.
Plus drilling the two holes u Dee the frame is a PITA cause your pulling the drill up vs pushing.
Got the crossmember moved and bolted up, then finished bolting up the drivers c-notch. I still have to drill a very large hole for the air fitting on top of the bag. I'll probably just plasma cut that out. I remember trying to drill that one before. Three hours of no fun.


Old, not so good c-notch


New, more better c-notch.






So the question now is, should I stitch weld this thing in place too?
There are a total of 8 grade 8 bolts Nolting it together, but there is also a lot of opportunity to weld it up too.

 

[jmlcolorado]

I refused to drill all these holes from above the frame.
Easiest way to drill.
I'd rather lay on my back and push up anyways.

T's nice working on it up this high. Almost want to wire the chassis while its way up here so I can just stand up to run it all and wrap in loom then secure

 

[jmlcolorado]

Got the other c-notch installed. What a pain! Mostly due to the air bag provisions.
Clearance is tight, but that's what I expected.
Drivers side




Clearance at the diff to shock crossmember is tight too


Passanger side.




Also got the rear ride height sensors installed.



Let the computer roll through calibration. It goes through a number of steps of suspension at different heights and calculates full entension, full drop and ride height automatically.

To my surprise, it out both the front and back at exactly the ride height I was shooting for. I suppose that means I installed everything right, including spring perches.

Here's a quick video showing how the system works


https://youtu.be/DJUs93AssZU

 

[jmlcolorado]

Picked up my Go Stick!!! :metal:
Had it built to support 500 HP using 1 ton u-joints.
Should hold up just fine :lol:

Eventually, I'm going to experiment with compound turbos and heavy fueling on this truck. My buddy built up his 07 Dodge mega cab with compounds, programming, and injectors. He had a stupid expensive built trans to hold all the power. My goal is to match him HP to weight ratio. We're guessing he's at about 600 hp now, with capabilities to hit 750ish. I figure I need to be at 350-400hp to match him. Should be fun.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Received the intercooler and radiator for the truck yesterday.
I've been procrastinating the grill shell/radiator setup for quite awhile. Not sure why, but I've been dreading that work.
I changed routes in the radiator. I had a mustang radiator that I was going to flip sideways, relocate the filler neck and use. But all that work into one I wasn't sure was going to work right (running sideways), I figured I might as well get one designed to run that way to begin with.
This one also has a trans cooler built in, so that's a plus. The external trans cooler I recently bought will now be used for the power steering cooler. Probably a little overkill, bit that's okay.


Tonight we get a rare look up the skirt of the international.


I had a buddy come over who is very interested in building vehicles, and also has a much sharper eye for detail, and a whole bunch more patients that I have to the small details, to help me with the valve body modifications to convert the trans into full manual.

I got a transgo TOFD-3 Kit. Neither of us had ever been in an automatic transmission. Like never even have dropped a pan before. So this was new and exciting for both of us.
This is also not something I would have ventured to tackle 5 years ago when I started the project. Too much fear involved in unfamiliar Territory.
Seems as I've gotten a bit older, I've gotten a little more adventurous. What's the worse that could happen? I screw something up and I gotta fix it. At least a lesson would be learned from the whole thing.

Anyways, between the two of us, took about 4 hours start to finish. Not bad at all and I don't question one thing about the process if I did wrong or not.
Took our sweet time, lots of discussion and I'm confident.

The guy I bought the ram 1500 donor Truck from said the transmission was recently rebuilt. I had my doubts, based off the cracked block cummins he also said was good. But once inside, I was pleasantly surprised at how remarkably clean it was!



The thing was absolutely spotless. No metal in the pan. Nothing. All the pieces we removed from the valve body appeared totally new. No score marks of moving pieces. I'm happy with it. Now we'll see how our efforts pay off once the truck is moving.

I was hoping to stab it back in the truck tonight, but the new filter I got was too deep and wouldn't let the pan install. Also couldn't find the flywheel to torque converter bolts. No big deal though. At least the main goal was accomplished.


Now, question.
The torque converter I had left the fluid in and taped off the nose.
I planned on draining it and refilling with fresh fluid.
How do I go bat doing that?
Just dump out the old and fill up? How much to I fill it up with? Till it starts spilling out when standing verticle?
Or does the transmission fill it up? The end of the output shaft appears hollow. It doesn't pump fluid into the torque converter does it?
I feel like it doesn't.
Let me know your thoughts.

 

[DJ3100]

Nice progress. The new radiator was the correct choice. That intercooler looks huge, I'll be interested to see where you put it.

I would use both coolers on the tranny. When you start ramping up the boost you'll want all the transmission cooling you can get. Probably won't need cooling on the power steering unless you're doing a lot of twisties.

I always put manuals in my stuff can't help on the converter.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Started working on the intercooler and radiator mounting

Here's the mess I left myself when I started building the shell, but never finished. Glad I never finished, otherwise there would be a different radiator in there.


That big round frame crossmember passing throu this thing is a real PITA, but it serves a good purpose, and once the grill is mounted for good, it won't be too bad. I think it adds a lot of character too.

Intercooler will set here.


In/out piping on top. (P.S. I LOVE plasma cutters!)


Radiator behind.


The one thing that REALLY bothers me is the turbo out and intake aren't symmetrical. But I think i can fix that with some creative piping.


I was a little concerned how the intercooler was going to fit, but it fits very well. Just barely hangs below the grill, and no lower than the oil pan.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Interesting. I have two sensors/switches in the water jackets of the head. One at the rear with a short pigtail with 2 leads on it. Another at the thermostat housing with one spade terminal on it.
Wondering which was which, I got out the volt meter and torch to test.
The one at the rear of the head with 2 leads is a Nason TT-D1B-230R/WP110.
The breakdown of this part number is
Temprature switch
1/2" Probe legnth
1/2" NPT
Normally closed
Fixed set point of 210*
Set point direction- rising
Weather pack connector.

Now WHY would they have a normally closed switch on this engine?
This means the circuit is closed, until the truck reaches 210*

This doesn't make sense for a fan, because it would be on all the time, and the engine wouldn't likely ever reach 210*

Doesn't make sense for a warning light, as it too would remain on all the time.

From what I read, this particular port is the best port for fans because it reads hottest.

Wouldn't you want a normally open switch here, and in a temprature range of closer to 185* or so?

 

[DJ3100]

Does that switch control a relay? When the switch is open the relay is closed.

Re the symmetry: things can be symmetrical or totally different. Almost symmetrical looks like a mistake. That leaves a room for a lot of creative plumbing. That intercooler looks like it belongs there. Nice work.

 

[smallfoot]

Really nice work! On the symmetry thing...I like symmetry also but DJ3100 is right, sometimes it might look just "wrong". I'm going back to your first statement, 72 pages ago

:Okay guys, Here goes nothing......................

Here goes nothing?????....MYAZZ.....[cl[P

 

[Old Iron]

Replace the sensor with one these and a relay.

 

[jmlcolorado]

I agree whole heartedly on the symmetry.
I think I can get them symmetrical with a 45* boot to get the turbo outlet over the top of the exhaust then towards the front of the truck. If I can't get them exactly even, I'll pipe that side totally different to avoid it looking like a failed attempt.


I'm sure that switch was a relay control. I will swap out to a normally open switch to a relay. I was just wanting to make sure I was on the right track of mind and not thinking about something backwards.

 

[MercuryMac]

Jml, I had a two prong temperature sender plug from my donor [Ranger] truck and screwed into the appropriate flathead bung. I tried and tried to make that sender run the [Ranger] gauge that I put in my '36 dash. My attitude was deteriorating until I almost raised my voice, until I took the sender to town and asked the partsman to get me another one; one that worked right this time. He looked at it and the picture on his screen and asked if I didn't want a temperature sender instead. My eyes bugged out, and I blurted out, "That is a temperature sender". "Not really", he said. "Not for a gauge, anyhow." It was a temp sender for the computer, more of an off/on switch. The partsman is sometimes right. I needed a gauge sender; and maybe you do too.

I'm into symmetry too, keep at it.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Jml, I had a two prong temperature sender plug from my donor [Ranger] truck and screwed into the appropriate flathead bung. I tried and tried to make that sender run the [Ranger] gauge that I put in my '36 dash. My attitude was deteriorating until I almost raised my voice, until I took the sender to town and asked the partsman to get me another one; one that worked right this time. He looked at it and the picture on his screen and asked if I didn't want a temperature sender instead. My eyes bugged out, and I blurted out, "That is a temperature sender". "Not really", he said. "Not for a gauge, anyhow." It was a temp sender for the computer, more of an off/on switch. The partsman is sometimes right. I needed a gauge sender; and maybe you do too.

I'm into symmetry too, keep at it.

Interesting.
I'm needing one for a gauge (that's not yet purchased) and for fan relay signal. Might have to order the ones I need. Hoping the gauge comes with the one it needs.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Got another box of stuffs today. I'm really starting to like getting boxs of stuffs.




Got the intake piping roughed up. Adding a 45*elbow stright off the turbo really helped bring things in line.







Only thing not symmetrical is the valve covers. They are about 1 1/2" off center of the block. But ain't no changin that, so I'll live with what I have.