Klink's 1930 Chevy
- Thread starter klink
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Help Support Rat Rods Rule:
patina
Well-known member
I have a soft spot for phaetons... and for highboys. Keep up the awesome work man.
Need any inspiration? I have this in a magizine but googled the picture Even though yours is not a ford there still cool
Need any inspiration? I have this in a magizine but googled the picture Even though yours is not a ford there still cool
klink
Well-known member
The cross member is from Cruisn Products in Redford Mi. It's thier standard '32 Ford kit.
klink
Well-known member
Thanks for the kind words... I too like Phaetons. Hopefully mine will have a folding top as well.
klink
Well-known member
Rear end is mounted... well, tacked in
Made a little progress. The rear end is tacked into place. A lot of planning was done to get to this point. Last weekend I trimmed some wood out of the body so I could get it on the frame, then I spent countless hours moving the rearend and frame around to get the right position. This weekend I got the center section mount built. It's only tacked together for now. The yellow plates on the center mount are there to hold the mocked up bushings together, a short piece of emt, two fender washers and some plastic washer for compression. I won't put the actual bushings in until all the welding is done. I have a front end coming this week from speedway, 4" dropped i beam, split wish bones, early ford spindles, steering/brake kit, vega steering box and hardware. I'll be modifying the original front cross member, just trying to use a few original frame parts.
Made a little progress. The rear end is tacked into place. A lot of planning was done to get to this point. Last weekend I trimmed some wood out of the body so I could get it on the frame, then I spent countless hours moving the rearend and frame around to get the right position. This weekend I got the center section mount built. It's only tacked together for now. The yellow plates on the center mount are there to hold the mocked up bushings together, a short piece of emt, two fender washers and some plastic washer for compression. I won't put the actual bushings in until all the welding is done. I have a front end coming this week from speedway, 4" dropped i beam, split wish bones, early ford spindles, steering/brake kit, vega steering box and hardware. I'll be modifying the original front cross member, just trying to use a few original frame parts.
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klink
Well-known member
sitting on 3 tires...
Made some more progress. All the work so far has been getting the chassis done. It's still tacked together, but that should change soon. I got a complete front end from Speedway and a cross member from Welders Series. I didn't have time to get both front spindles installed so for now it's a 3 wheeler. There's still jack stands under the rear of the frame because I don't have the pinion supports for the rear end built yet. Because the bushings aren't in the center section mount the rear housing rotates a little under it's own weight. The body has been off and on a few times but no pictures, soon though.
Made some more progress. All the work so far has been getting the chassis done. It's still tacked together, but that should change soon. I got a complete front end from Speedway and a cross member from Welders Series. I didn't have time to get both front spindles installed so for now it's a 3 wheeler. There's still jack stands under the rear of the frame because I don't have the pinion supports for the rear end built yet. Because the bushings aren't in the center section mount the rear housing rotates a little under it's own weight. The body has been off and on a few times but no pictures, soon though.
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klink
Well-known member
some lights I got
Last weekend I was helping a friend clean out his barn and I scored some cool lenses. There are two sizes in two colors, red and amber. These lights were wrapped in news paper and the year on the paper is 1943. These are King Bee lights, they're replacement side marker lenses. The cone shaped lenses fit current side marker housings, they measure 2.34" on the small OD and 2.46" for the overall OD. The other lenses are a little bigger at 2.50" for the small OD and 2.72" for the overall OD. These lenses also have King Bee embossed in the glass. Hopefully I can find some housings for the bigger lenses. My buddy has 3 cases of these...
Last weekend I was helping a friend clean out his barn and I scored some cool lenses. There are two sizes in two colors, red and amber. These lights were wrapped in news paper and the year on the paper is 1943. These are King Bee lights, they're replacement side marker lenses. The cone shaped lenses fit current side marker housings, they measure 2.34" on the small OD and 2.46" for the overall OD. The other lenses are a little bigger at 2.50" for the small OD and 2.72" for the overall OD. These lenses also have King Bee embossed in the glass. Hopefully I can find some housings for the bigger lenses. My buddy has 3 cases of these...
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earthman
Fascinated by rolling objects!
Thanks for the updates 
klink
Well-known member
More chassis work...
I got some more work done on the chassis. Here are some shots of the rear center section support struts. I've had a lot of sucees notching tube with my drill press and a hole saw. This drill press goes pretty slow, 240 rpm, but I think 150 rpm would be a little better. As long as the tube doesn't come loose it works. I have a little trick for marking the tubing so I can square it up. I use a heavy duty pipe cutter to mark the tubing and I dress it to that line. This line is pretty easy to see even when everything heats up. Since I don't have a lathe or cut off saw this is how I do it. The pipe cutter won't cut through the DOM tubing. I like to make sure everything is clamped tight when I weld, I'm not a fan of filling gaps with weld, if it doesn't fit well I'll usually re-do it.
I got some more work done on the chassis. Here are some shots of the rear center section support struts. I've had a lot of sucees notching tube with my drill press and a hole saw. This drill press goes pretty slow, 240 rpm, but I think 150 rpm would be a little better. As long as the tube doesn't come loose it works. I have a little trick for marking the tubing so I can square it up. I use a heavy duty pipe cutter to mark the tubing and I dress it to that line. This line is pretty easy to see even when everything heats up. Since I don't have a lathe or cut off saw this is how I do it. The pipe cutter won't cut through the DOM tubing. I like to make sure everything is clamped tight when I weld, I'm not a fan of filling gaps with weld, if it doesn't fit well I'll usually re-do it.
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klink
Well-known member
The rearend is in
The rearend is finally in. Most everything is still only tack welded though. I'll weld it all up as soon as I know exactly where the engine and trans will be. It's taken me awhile to get to this point and it sure feels good. I've supported both sides of the center section because only the back side will be getting coil overs. The shock supports are only set in place at the moment. I made a set of struts to hold the A-arms at ride height (what I think ride height will be) so the shock supports will just set there for the time being.
The rearend is finally in. Most everything is still only tack welded though. I'll weld it all up as soon as I know exactly where the engine and trans will be. It's taken me awhile to get to this point and it sure feels good. I've supported both sides of the center section because only the back side will be getting coil overs. The shock supports are only set in place at the moment. I made a set of struts to hold the A-arms at ride height (what I think ride height will be) so the shock supports will just set there for the time being.
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klink
Well-known member
Looks like a hotrod
I didn't do a whole lot today... on the car. My shop is small, 16X24, so I had a few things (frame table, body & hood) stored in the garage. It started snowing so my wife asked me to clear out so she can park in the garage (my shop is behind the garage). Since I finally have a roller AND I'm ready to start working on the body I went ahead and put the body on the chassis. Well... I got a little excited so I put the doors and hood on. The grill shell needs to be modified before it'll fit so it's missing from the pictures. Is it early to start making engine sounds??? The last shot is with the fuel tank in position, I'm not sure if I want it there or not. It hides the Jag rear... BUT it does make the rear of the car look lower. There's no weight in the car yet so it still sets a little high.
I didn't do a whole lot today... on the car. My shop is small, 16X24, so I had a few things (frame table, body & hood) stored in the garage. It started snowing so my wife asked me to clear out so she can park in the garage (my shop is behind the garage). Since I finally have a roller AND I'm ready to start working on the body I went ahead and put the body on the chassis. Well... I got a little excited so I put the doors and hood on. The grill shell needs to be modified before it'll fit so it's missing from the pictures. Is it early to start making engine sounds??? The last shot is with the fuel tank in position, I'm not sure if I want it there or not. It hides the Jag rear... BUT it does make the rear of the car look lower. There's no weight in the car yet so it still sets a little high.
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tank does make the rear look clunky. Couldn't hide it up in the body? you going to run a rear seat? Moon tank up front maybe? just some ideas in my A.D.D brain...[P
Looks awesome though. Nice proportions though with the frame. [cl
Looks awesome though. Nice proportions though with the frame. [cl
klink
Well-known member
Clunky was my thought too. The rear portion of the frame isn't finished but I don't think it'll matter. I plan on running a rear seat because it's an open car. There's still plenty of room for a tank though. It also hides the Jag rear, I'm thinking it should be at least a little visible.
sgtpontiac
Older, Wiser and Still Buildin'
I think the Jag rear should definately be showing...
Or did you mean the tank....... sorry, got a drunk and I think the fumes are affecting my thought processes.....
Or did you mean the tank....
... sorry, got a drunk and I think the fumes are affecting my thought processes.....
Blue Eyed Devil
Devil's Advocate
I like the tank down there, ala-'32 Ford style, but it needs a little something on the sides. Some sort of frame rail extension or an apron maybe? Just to finish it off a bit. I don't think you should worry about hiding the Jag rear. I don't think that's necessarily a bad thing. I know why you are using it, but it doesn't really suit the rest of the build IMO. Bang-up job on the fab though. It's hard to make top-cut-off cars look good and you are pulling it off well with a traditional flair. Kudos... [ddev
klink
Well-known member
Tank Location???
I might be jumping the gun a little on the tank location. The body still needs A LOT OF WORK. But, I need to have a plan.
I like the look of the Jag rear from behind, but having it visible was never part of the vision. To get the tank tucked up and in a little more will require moving the filler neck. I cleaned and neutralized the tank over 20 yeaars ago so cutting and welding will be no problem. Currently the frame ends under the body; I plan on extending it regardless of the tank location. The original tank was never visible before, it was tucked up in a massive cross member covered by a panel.
I might be jumping the gun a little on the tank location. The body still needs A LOT OF WORK. But, I need to have a plan.
I like the look of the Jag rear from behind, but having it visible was never part of the vision. To get the tank tucked up and in a little more will require moving the filler neck. I cleaned and neutralized the tank over 20 yeaars ago so cutting and welding will be no problem. Currently the frame ends under the body; I plan on extending it regardless of the tank location. The original tank was never visible before, it was tucked up in a massive cross member covered by a panel.
earthman
Fascinated by rolling objects!
I love to see to watch the axles and joints rotating from behind on a Jag rearend myself. I'm thinking maybe a couple of tanks inside the rails ahead of the rearend.
I'm thinking maybe a couple of tanks inside the rails ahead of the rearend.
klink
Well-known member
Removed the rest of the wood.
All the wood is out. The previous owner installed some new wood from Fiberglass and Wood located in Ga. LONG before I bought the car 20 something years ago (1989). So some of the sins weren't committed by me. BUT, I did do a few things that weren't exactly well thought out, so now I'm going to be redoing a few things, but mostly I'll be doing all the things that have been waiting to be done. The bottoms of the rockers are pretty much gone and the rockers overall are pretty thin. The photos don't really show this.
All the wood is out. The previous owner installed some new wood from Fiberglass and Wood located in Ga. LONG before I bought the car 20 something years ago (1989). So some of the sins weren't committed by me. BUT, I did do a few things that weren't exactly well thought out, so now I'm going to be redoing a few things, but mostly I'll be doing all the things that have been waiting to be done. The bottoms of the rockers are pretty much gone and the rockers overall are pretty thin. The photos don't really show this.
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goose-em
Well-known member
Nice workmanship! I will be watching this one
