model A coupe

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worked on the torque arm today since it is running an open drive shaft with split bones. used an old wishbone that was bent, heated and bent it to the desired shape.

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front mount of the torque arm, tie rod end, mount has the 7* taper reamed into it

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rear mount was drilled and sleeved with 1.5 od tube and polly bushing installed, .125 plate mounting brackets on the rear end

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also clamped up a different cowl top since the front edge was cut off the old one, still need to do the sides

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front mount of the torque arm, tie rod end, mount has the 7* taper reamed into it
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Just an idea. you might want to flip the front mount to the outside so you can drop the trans and crossmember out without unbolting the torque tube. Just my $.02

It all looks killer though![cl
 
cant move the mount, it will either block the nuts and bolts or move the torque arm to where it wont be parallel. if you need to drop the tranny, whats one more nut, or you can swing it down out of the way.
 
I was just wondering if you were going to add a second mount on the bottom side of the axle for your torque arm? With it only being attached at the top of the axle won't it still allow the axle to twist? I'm in no way putting down your work (which is awesome by the way!) it was just something I noticed and wondered if it was something you had considered.
 
jon, yea i will be at road rockets.

there are lower arms. they are the original wishbones that have been split. when running them with an open drive shaft you need something to help take some of the torque off the bones, as they tend to crack at the forging. you can see the lower bones in some of the side pics
 
I was just wondering if you were going to add a second mount on the bottom side of the axle for your torque arm? With it only being attached at the top of the axle won't it still allow the axle to twist?

He basically made a longer version of a 3 link set up. It should be very effective at controlling axle wind up. If he didn't have the upper link then the lower bones would bend under power. The closed driveshaft acted like the 3rd link in the original set up.
 
Did you bend the rear brackets when you split them to move them outward? I am using our rear '36 arms in a modified setup as well.
 
have not updated this thread in a while either, working on the floor skeleton among other things. the 3x1 tube behind the tail shaft will be cut out in the center for the drive shaft

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more work on the floor skeleton

making some cardboard templates for the new subrail section that will attach the body to the tube skeleton

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transferred the pattern onto steel, passenger side all tacked in

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driver side all tacked up

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cut the center section out for the drive shaft, and made a piece to go above it

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started welding up some of the floor skeleton

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started some work on the floor. added some raised areas on the floor pans for strength and some design. on the trans tunnel i added another raised area in the center and some louvers. still more to come over the next few days

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do I have to say it.....wow what a sweet looking floor you sir do a very nice job it is almost a shame to have to cover some of that work up with seats the tunnel looks awesome[dr
 

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