My 40 Dodge Truck Build - Maybe a 41 LOL

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Thank you. Your right!

Once in a while I get ****ed off and my youngest son who is an awesome builder fabricator says "come-on Dad.... it's only steel!"

Thanks for your help!
 
Engine mount looks plenty strong. My steering box was right where the mount had to be, so I had to build a cross member under the box, then build a triangular mount off the cross member beside the steering box.
 
Getting closer every night.....
 

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Thanks... I'm thinking about hinging my bed floor so I can prop it up to be seen. Or maybe a 5/8 thick sheet of acrylic sheet.... more showy that hot rod but I would llke to show it off.
 
Pan Hard Bar Install

I fabed up a Pan Hard Bar set-up and thought I'd make sure there's nothing wrong with it.

Everything I read told me parallel at ride height, and frame mounted tab on the same side as the steering box / front pan hard bar.

It will be welded to my axle tube and the thru bolts are only to bolt up my 4 link bar ends. And tab's welded on the driver side frame to maintain level.

I wish when I bought the 4 link bars the had adjustable ends on both side. Now I'd have to remove the bolts, jack the pinion end, adjust and slide back in. To go the other way I'd have to put the jack above the pinion and jack down from the frame. Would have been so much easier for adjusting down the road if I would have thought to get both ends adjustable. I'm kinda disappointed the guy I bought them from didn't tell me that. Hopefully I won't have to adjust.

Speaking of adjusting... I made my trans x-member so I could change out shims which are made out of round DOM.

Any thoughts on the Pan Hard set up?
 

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Got the frame off the rack today. Moved it to the other side of the garage.

I have very low ceilings in my space so built a boom arm for my engine lift to lift my cab onto the frame.

I have an area at the back of my cab where the original fuel tank was that I reinforced with a piece of 1/8 plate and cap it off with a piece of angle iron. I'll include a picture so you can see what I'm talking about. It has to be strong cause it ties my two sills in.

Turns out my drive shaft will fall right on this plate.... yep just like my motor mount and steering box. LOL

So I have to build a c-notch on that plate. I'm thinking I'd build it out of some rectangular tubing 2x6 or so, unless you guys think 1/2" plate would be good. Second question is alot of the frame c notches I see are triangular versus square. Any direction for me on this?

Thanks guys
 

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Coming along nicely! [cl
On the Panhard bar, are you able to mount it to the other side of the 4 link? The longer you can make it, the less deflection you will have as the rear end moves up and down.
The cab is not going to be under near as much stress as a frame so I think box tubing would be just fine for the driveshaft notch. Also you will likely be making a substructure to support the floor sheetmetal, and that can also be tied to the rear of the cab around the C notch, should be plenty strong.
 
I think my shock mount is in the way. I will look at that tomorrow. How much of a problem do you think is is if I can't?

Yes your right, the floor framing will be tied in to that notch and the sills... perfect.

Did you see my question on wether I need additional reinforcement on my frame in the center section on your last build post?

Thanks ZZ
 
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I think my shock mount is in the way. I will look at that tomorrow. How much of a problem do you think is is if I can't?

Yes your right, the floor framing will be tied in to that notch and the sills... perfect.

Did you see my question on wether I need additional reinforcement on my frame in the center section on your last build post?

Thanks ZZ

My opinion on adding more to the center of the frame is yes, but then I also tend to overbuild.... The way I see it is that there is a long stretch between the front crossmember and the rear kickup with nothing to prevent twisting other than the framerails. Of course there are several considerations like the position of the booster, which makes it tough to make reinforcing members symmetrical like with my frame. Also you may need room for exhaust? Or not? In my case, I'll have enough ground clearance that it can run below the frame without hanging too low. Here's a pic of another frame I built for my Black Rat 55 - the exhaust ran out side of the frame on this one.
 

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My opinion on adding more to the center of the frame is yes, but then I also tend to overbuild.... The way I see it is that there is a long stretch between the front crossmember and the rear kickup with nothing to prevent twisting other than the framerails. Of course there are several considerations like the position of the booster, which makes it tough to make reinforcing members symmetrical like with my frame. Also you may need room for exhaust? Or not? In my case, I'll have enough ground clearance that it can run below the frame without hanging too low. Here's a pic of another frame I built for my Black Rat 55 - the exhaust ran out side of the frame on this one.


This frame??????? Black Rat 55
 
I fabbed up a c-notch for the rear of the cab to stop the cab sills from spreading. Little overkill but it'll do the job well.

Just tacked in....tomorrow I'll weld it in.

Next stop cab mounts. I have to order a frame mounted brake booster and then I'll reinforce my frame rails from the Z to the kick-ups because when I grow up I wana be just like ZZ [cl
 

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Here's how I lowered the cab in place using my engine lift. Cab is in place but ride height not correct since all 4 wheels are on skates that are about 3" high
 

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OK....very cool. Sweet Job. I'd like to paint my frame rather than powdercoat.

Was thinking about single staging it. Have you had good luck with the Rustoluem? Spray or Rush.
 

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