My 40 Dodge Truck Build - Maybe a 41 LOL

[zzrodder]

OK....very cool. Sweet Job. I'd like to paint my frame rather than powdercoat.

Was thinking about single staging it. Have you had good luck with the Rustoluem? Spray or Rush.

It really depends on what you expect from a paint job. Rustoleum is cheap and easy to get from your local building supply store. It is basically old style acrylic enamel, it takes forever to dry but that can be fixed by adding hardener to the mix. To spray, I've been using 5 parts Rustoleum, 1 part Acetone and 1/2 part hardener. I've just used whatever hardener I have around, usually some kind of urethane hardener. I've sprayed it directly on bare metal and on primer - I will say that it is harder to sand the Rustoleum primer if you are looking for a super finish, it is still pretty elastic, you'll need to wet sand. Usually I prime with epoxy or urethane primer/surfacer because I'm lazy and don't like wet sanding, so I can do it dry . I used it on my recent 37 Packard build for the dash and interior bits, the Chestnut brown happened to be a great match to the original color.
Do some practice spraying first to get used to it, you may want to tweak the mix with more or less Acetone depending on your gun and skill level, etc.
I am certainly no expert at this and have had my share of screw-ups and runs - it's always an adventure painting stuff in far less than ideal conditions but I stubbornly keep doing it.

 

[Couper]

Hey ZZ.... Thanks for all the info. I was wondering if it was paint or powder coat. Looks great in the pics. I paint and have access to a downdraft booth at my son's job. All of my front end & rear end components on my dakota are powder coated. It's nice cause it last forever....

I'm not sure if I will powder coat or just single stage it.....

Keep you posted....

 

[Bamamav]

Will be easier to change or repair with paint.

 

[Couper]

That's what I'm thinking.... I can shoot it myself here as well. Thanks for your input

 

[Couper]

Frame Reinforcement

Ok so here's my idea.

I go from the kick up at the uprights that are on both sides of my driveshaft loop forward on an angle to the side rails just behing my Z on both sides.

I will fab the piece that runs side by side that will also hold my front drive shaft loop will be flanged and bolt in. I'll weld some nuts into the angle pieces so I just not relying on tappings into 3/16. I have to make sure I have enough room to get my trans out. Any idea how far it has to come back to drop......6" be enough?

I can put an additional out rigger between my rail and the angled piece say in the middle if needed.

As far as the xmember under the motor goes, I can do like the picture frame to frame just behind my motor mounts but jogged down for oil pan clearance should I have to drop it.

Whatda think? And thanks!

 

[Couper]

I woke up with thoughts of mounting my brake booster.....ARG.

I'm going to have to wait for the booster to arrive before I screw up.....it's on the way.

It's supposed to be almost 70 degrees here today...I think I'm gona slow this down and ride today.

 

[Old Iron]

Six inches back from the engine is plenty enough room to clear the tranny for removal.
:d
[p[p[p

 

[Couper]

You read my mind brother! I was just getting ready to call a local trans joint. I don't have a torque converter in there yet so had no idea. I'm messing with the frame reinforcement but have to wait for my brake booster to come. I beleive my frame isn't as wide as ZZ's

Thanks!

 

[zzrodder]

I know re-doing things sucks, but consider moving the tranny mount down to bridge across the new frame members. Bolt it solidly to the new frame members and use a rubber or poly mount between it and the tranny. That way the tranny crossmember becomes a structural piece of the frame.
BTW, my frame is 34" wide.

 

[Old Iron]

You have to unbolt the torque converter from the engine before pulling the tranny then, it comes out with the tranny.

 

[Couper]

I know re-doing things sucks, but consider moving the tranny mount down to bridge across the new frame members. Bolt it solidly to the new frame members and use a rubber or poly mount between it and the tranny. That way the tranny crossmember becomes a structural piece of the frame.
BTW, my frame is 34" wide.

Yes it does...but it's part of building something one off. I appreciate your expertise for sure, even if it makes me rework something. So please don't ever hold back

Your right on the money...I've been working on how I will frame out the floor with some 1" tubing and realized that I will not be able to drop my x-member because the new frame members will be in the way. So I do have to shorten my trans x-member and mount to the new frame rail extensions.

I do have an energy suspension poly mount between the x-member and trans now. The DOM spacers you see at the bolting to the frame are so if I have to mess with the tail shaft angle down the road I have some adjustment room.

I can only go so far to the middle with the new rails to leave room should I have to pull the trans. This means I will have to mount my brake booster further back where I will have a wider space between the 2 rail and use a longer rod to reach the pedal mounts.

I don't want to cut or weld anything in until I get my booster and can mock it up. In the mean time I'm mocking up some floor and tunnel framing. My aim is to make the rectangular center piece and the forward loop bolt in so I can drop it down and pull my trans back. I keep thinking it might be less trouble just to remove the radiator and grill and just pull the motor and trans out the front if I had to.

Think I'm on the right track?
Thanks again.
Couper

 

[Couper]

You have to unbolt the torque converter from the engine before pulling the tranny then, it comes out with the tranny.

Not sure I understand... which option requires less space at the tail shaft / back side of the pan OI?

 

[Old Iron]

"I don't have a torque converter in there yet so had no idea."
Just making sure you knew the torque converter has to be unbolted from the flex plate before removing the transmission from the engine.
At that point the torque converter and trans come out at the same time.

 

[Couper]

Ahhhh got it. Thanks

 

[Couper]

Geeeze I'm tired this morning... was in the garage until 2 am, really didn't get any work done just still messing with how to do the floor and mocking it up with some 2x2 lumber & cardboard. I think I have a line on it now.

Hoping the booster comes soon cause I'm held up.....

ZZ...on the frame stiffeners I really don't want to mess with my trans x member and would like to stop just before it.....not go under it and past it. I hoping that will be ok. I will do some thing near the motor mounts....

 

[Couper]

So after a lot of back and forth in my mind I took ZZ's recomondation to add the frame stiffeners. First one is tacked in....from the kick forward to just behind the Z. While at it I had to fab up a bracket to take my brake booster.

I also have the brake pedal bracketry clamped in place. I have to do a little surgery on the pedal arm to get it over to the left a few inches. I don't have big feet but don't want to be mashing on the gas when I'm supposed to be stepping on the brake

Of course the linkage rod fell right on the frame rail also I had to do a little surgery and weld in a pass thru.

I feel like I'm moving forward again.....

 

[Old Iron]

Good work around and good execution.

 

[Couper]

Thank you sir!

 

[zzrodder]

There ya go, another problem solved [cl Coming together nicely [P[P

 

[Couper]

Thanks ZZ! Are you in AZ?

My wife just cam back from visiting her sister who lives in Peoria AZ.

Kid lives in a house that looks like a damm hotel....12' ceilings, 6 foot wide hallways, 7 or 8 foot high doors. Must be nice!