bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Yes, very nice build. You got skills.
My 40 Dodge Truck Build - Maybe a 41 LOL
- Thread starter Couper
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rods Rule:
Thank you Bob....appreciate that!
Old Iron
Well-known member
Yes you can use the spider web gusset in place of the 2x2 tubing and would look way better.
I thanked you for that but wanted to back up here for a minute. I have some skills but this kind of build is new to me. I'm 65 years old and have done a lot of body work, fiberglass work, sheet metal work, some fabrication work and some nice restorations. When stuck I try to find what I need on-line.
Make no mistake.... I couldn't come anywhere near doing this job without the input of you guys and another fellow named Gene who is on the Killbillet forum. I know I ask a lot of stupid questions, and be way overwhelming PIA at times.
I just wanted to back up and thank you guys, and acknowledge the fact that I couldn't do this with out you guys.
Thank you fella's.
Couper (Bob)
Thanks OI!
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
Thank You Couper, for acknowledging the experiences that you see on this forum. We all seem to feed off each other somewhat, and that's what makes this forum so special.
You made me feel good. You're welcome.
You made me feel good. You're welcome.
Old Iron
Well-known member
There is only a few stupid questions. Legitimate questions not only help the one asking but, also the others that don't know the answer.
LOL, you can tell a stupid question, they're the ones that usually go unanswered.
LOL, you can tell a stupid question, they're the ones that usually go unanswered.
Thanks guys! And your welcome Merc!
I just bought these.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/323981479231
Would it matter if I ran them on the 16" kick up pointing down? (short side on the bed rail / long side on the kick-up , like in the ebay pic)
Or should they be short side on the kick up....pointing towards the back?
I'm trying to find the same in 2" x 6" for the cab side of the kick up.
Also I don't know if you remember but I also have internal gussets as in my pic below on all joints.
Thanks!
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Old Iron
Well-known member
Yes, I do remember you having the internal gussets.
You can run them either direction.
I sent you a PM
You can run them either direction.
I sent you a PM
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
I want to add to OI's statement on 'legitimate questions'. Not only does the questioner gain valuable information, the rest of the audience who haven't asked yet also do, and the guy with the answer usually has to think about the answer for a while and analyze it, to see if it is flawed or the best for the situation. So everybody gains by good questions being asked.
Old Iron
Well-known member
^^yepper^^
Cool Beans....win win for everybody.
Old Iron....I have a couple questions on the motor height in the bay in reference to the frame rail location. I included a pic for reference.
The bottom of my frame rail under the cab is 6" to the ground.....my cab corners / rear rockers will be about 1/2" above that to protect the body work.
At the location that my motor mount will be the bottom of the frame rail is 11 1/2" and at the rear of the oil pan it's 9" (right under the "t" of stephs sticker).
Do you have an opinion on if the bottom of the oil pan should be at the 11 1/2" or the 9" Or should I just split the difference?
As far as protecting the oil pan goes the bottom of my i-beam axle is 5 1/2" at the center.
Thanks!
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This is one of those stupid questions 
Looks like I got a little ahead of my self. I adjusted the motor downward 3.5" from where she was and put a 3 degree tilt back on her.
The oil pan is well protected by the frame and I think the engine is low enough to prevent that body roll.
If these dims mean anything it puts the damper bolt 3" above the top of the frame rail and the center of the fan blade 10.5 " above the frame rail
Please let me know what you think.
Thanks!
Couper
Looks like I got a little ahead of my self. I adjusted the motor downward 3.5" from where she was and put a 3 degree tilt back on her.
The oil pan is well protected by the frame and I think the engine is low enough to prevent that body roll.
If these dims mean anything it puts the damper bolt 3" above the top of the frame rail and the center of the fan blade 10.5 " above the frame rail
Please let me know what you think.
Thanks!
Couper
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I mounted the adapter plate & trans loosely assembled today and cut the firewall to fit it. Boy....not a lot of foot well room. Thnk god I have small feet....but don't believe everything you here about small feet!
My son Rob worked with me all day today to confirm that the 700R4 Trans and the weight of the cab wouldn't sag the spring any lower. When we got the motor home we loaded it directly on the front end spring.....took her down 4". I wanted to perform the same test with the trans & cab loaded. With the motor set back against the fire wall & the trans bolted up, and the cab weight.... I'm at the same 4".
I yet have to add a converter, starter, alternator, full radiator and a grill....I should be fine with out the "c" notch. Full day of working for this discovery but well worth it.
The lil guy is my grandson. And some goodies showed up today!
My son Rob worked with me all day today to confirm that the 700R4 Trans and the weight of the cab wouldn't sag the spring any lower. When we got the motor home we loaded it directly on the front end spring.....took her down 4". I wanted to perform the same test with the trans & cab loaded. With the motor set back against the fire wall & the trans bolted up, and the cab weight.... I'm at the same 4".
I yet have to add a converter, starter, alternator, full radiator and a grill....I should be fine with out the "c" notch. Full day of working for this discovery but well worth it.
The lil guy is my grandson. And some goodies showed up today!
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DozerII
Well-known member
Cool build, nice having 3 generations together. [P[P
BillM
Well-known member
Looking good! Love those rear meats.
Old Iron
Well-known member
As long as the bottom of the pan is 2" above the bottom of the lowest frame rail, it's good.
Or 2" above the bottom of the front axle, whichever you want.
With the engine at a 3 degree down in the back, this puts the tranny pan around an 1" above the bottom of the frame rail/front axle.
Either one as long as the oil filter clears the top of the frame rail.
The lower you mount the engine/tranny the smaller the tranny tunnel also the further forward you place the engine the more foot room you get.
If you're going to run a mechanical fan the center of the water pump need to be close to the center of the radiator. If you're going to run an electric fan, then this doesn't enter into the equation.
Or 2" above the bottom of the front axle, whichever you want.
With the engine at a 3 degree down in the back, this puts the tranny pan around an 1" above the bottom of the frame rail/front axle.
Either one as long as the oil filter clears the top of the frame rail.
The lower you mount the engine/tranny the smaller the tranny tunnel also the further forward you place the engine the more foot room you get.
If you're going to run a mechanical fan the center of the water pump need to be close to the center of the radiator. If you're going to run an electric fan, then this doesn't enter into the equation.
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Couper, you've got a the best advisor in Old Iron. Keep up the good work.
