SHOTROD 1950ISH 5 window chevy truck

[Dr Crankenstein]

1941 mercury or lincoln
4 door car l drug home in 1996

chevelle l parted out in 1982 and a rusty/crusty oil pan should be good for the tunnel.

No problem with your memory!

.

 

[skull]

No problem with your memory!

.

l remember the chevelle because dad and l raced them and had a buttload in the back yard for parts.


the 4 door car was in the desert, HOT HOT crappy summer working in eastern washington and the parts car was the first thing l towed with the first new truck a was able to ever afford.

yet, last week is a blur

Later

 

[Sam_Fear]

Sooo.... your gonna reverse the motor and trans, run it through a transfer case and back to the rear axle. Are you gonna have to use a front 4x4 axle with an offset punkin to get the driveshaft around the motor?

You could probably move your back wheels farther back still and be ok looks wise.

 

[lowbudget50]

how wide are the slot mags you have sitting in the back of that thing?!!??!

 

[Sam_Fear]

...

 

[skull]

twelve

how wide are the slot mags you have sitting in the back of that thing?!!??!

1O" X 15" with a little more than 12" of tread, need some 7"/ 8" X 14"/ 15" for the front.

still in the planning stage, not sure on rear-end offset or what, my fab helper guy says no problem, he has a idea and a way to make it work, and judging from some of the crap we have had to make work, l figure this will be 0K when were done.[

l get myself in more deeper all the time, l need a meeting BAD

Later

 

[skull]

nice

...

l like it Sam[cl[cl[cl

wheelbase and ideas are already changing and l have not even "started" on her.

using you're idea sam:

we put on the 6 1/2 foot box, put rad up front under the hood(all the holes it should get plent of air), plumb it back to the engine, electric fan or two, move the engine as close as possible to the back of the cab using a short water pump, short shaft tranny, shortie driveline, rear-end moved back and stick the fuel cell up front under the hood.

move the cab as close to the front of the frame as possible and still clear the hood and steer 0K.

this way, no transfer case.

0R a married transfer case just for the heck of it to give me ultra low gear to go 1/8 mile racing.....

no fenders front or rear, that is the only thing for sure

so many possibilities. either way l decide to go, it'll be a fun build.

Later

 

[36Binder]

I like how fast this project is moving along. And I love the COE hood on there.
But I missed the engine option. What are you powering this thing with?

 

[skull]

sbc

small block chevy, aluminum intake, 6OO cfm carb, shortie headers and a auto trans.

l have those already, so that is what l will use.

O1O casting, might be 35O 4 bolt main, a friend, Dennis, has several rental houses, had a guy move out and Dennis was cleaning the garage, this was left abandoned, he called me to come it,

FREE SCORE [cl

thru a flex plate on it, turns over real easy, fingers XXX'ed it'll run 0K.


2 choices(so far) on the headers. chrome flange is flat, other set has a funky angle.


Later

 

[skull]

more mock up

put in a piece of plywood across the back of inside the cab to protect from all the sharp edges,

mocked up the floor/seat/firewall.

road signs 5 bucks at a yard sale, free Kia seats from a guy parting it out.

couple bullet holes in the gas pedal, gonna reuse it as it goes with the them

tomorrow---road trip--

this is turning into a real low buck build--so far--

Later

 

[lowbudget50]

You need five or six lug Wheels? I might have some six lugs that are 8 wide

 

[Bamamav]

Up to building a custom frame Skull? I’d build a cradle to mount the engine, transmission, and rear end solid to. Then your full frame would fit around that and the cradle would be hinged in the front to the main frame and your coil overs mounted to the back to both, the engine and rear would move together, the cradle would act as both suspension and power train mount. It might be better if you had some kind of a ball mount ( think early Ford wishbone) to allow for each side to move up independently of the other. Somebody built a frame like that a while back, escapes me who it was and what it went under.

 

[skull]

l think it was ben modified vw bus thingie.

thought about a custom chassis, friday l am going to get the 'yota frame, when l get it home l will make plans from there.

right now kinda up in the air on all the dissensions on this build,

Later

 

[Burgerman]

Nice score on the small block. Good casting number and a 350. [cl

 

[skull]

decisions NOT dissensions, bloody auto correct.

''right now kinda up in the air on all the dissensions on this build''

gonna try and fire it next week, if it runs 0K then start with the new intake ect ect.

Later

 

[05snopro440]

Up to building a custom frame Skull? I’d build a cradle to mount the engine, transmission, and rear end solid to. Then your full frame would fit around that and the cradle would be hinged in the front to the main frame and your coil overs mounted to the back to both, the engine and rear would move together, the cradle would act as both suspension and power train mount. It might be better if you had some kind of a ball mount ( think early Ford wishbone) to allow for each side to move up independently of the other. Somebody built a frame like that a while back, escapes me who it was and what it went under.

I'm just thinking out loud, but wouldn't making the engine, transmission, and rear end into one cradle that is part of the suspension make the thing ride a bit like a dump truck? The idea of reducing unsprung weight in a lot of modern vehicles is so that the suspension can react quicker, and if you have the engine, trans, and steel cradle that have to move with the wheels too, you're moving a lot of weight and therefore it would be slower to react and harder to get your spring setup in check. Just some thoughts, maybe I'm off.

 

[Bamamav]

I dunno snopro. I was thinking instead of having a extremely short driveshaft with crazy angles, it would stay in a fixed position with motor, tranny, and rearend moving in the same plane. I know nothing about unsprung vs sprung weights. Maybe Ben Modified will chime in since he did his VW this way....

 

[Ben Modified]

I dunno snopro. I was thinking instead of having a extremely short driveshaft with crazy angles, it would stay in a fixed position with motor, tranny, and rearend moving in the same plane. I know nothing about unsprung vs sprung weights. Maybe Ben Modified will chime in since he did his VW this way....

I thought all this was sounding familiar. I am not an engineer...but I tend to think of my arrangement as hybrid sprung weight. The cradle is hinged within the back half of the frame length so depending on where the engine is mounted in the cradle in relation to where the pivot point (hinge) is connecting to the frame you can actually support a large portion of the drivetrain with the frame. I am using the short (no tailhousing) powerglide trans and a cardan joint for a driveshaft to allow for any cradle flex. The trans weighs in around 90 lbs and the engine has aluminum heads etc, so the drivetrain isn't all that heavy. Huge tires with huge sidewalls help soften the ride I am not recommending this setup to anyone....but it has worked fine for me on both the VW and the V8 Daihatsu Hijet.
You could simplify the whole thing and use an independent rear and avoid the cradle all together. I picked up a complete corvette c4 rear with wheels recently for $100. The deals are out there.

 

[skull]

boat

V drive [S,

http://www.casalev-drive.com/OTHERS.html

https://jalopnik.com/slims-wheelie-van-5597585

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2rOlQnvabII

l have a buddy who owns a boat repair shop and he has lots of stuff in the yard.

if l find one it just will take some figuring out all the angles but still put the engine revered in the bed.

home with the frame and the short 27 inch long turbo 4OO.

this frame was gonna be used on a C 0 E so the front horns are trimmed, saves me doing this chore.

may take a while to finish this one, having a blast with it, maybe next summer.

Later

 

[skull]

so, the toyota frame was gone, instead got he 1995 dodge dakota frame,

it'l work fine for what l need, 5 lug 4 1/2 front, 5 lug chevy outta 1985 camaro give me 5 3/4 rear lug, two different patterns.

Later