Wood is good.

[Torchie]

Some follow up Pics.

Here are some pics that show what has been done to this hull over the years and what needs to be fixed.
Pics. 1-3 shows two different main frames that have been modified or cut away totally to make room for the former engine. These frames are next to each other as well.
Pic 4. Shows the deterioration to the intermediate frames ( That's the narrow one laying on top of the main frame) as well as cracking to the main frame.
Pic 5. A main frame repair that was done for the top side. Typical quick repair for these old hulls.
From the looks of it I will replacing all the main frames as well as all the intermediate frames which will need to be steam bent.
Torchie

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

Is there any part or piece that doesn't need replaced? What is the assembly made of? I mean, is the whole thing made of mahogany or a mixture of woods?

.

 

[Torchie]

Is there any part or piece that doesn't need replaced? What is the assembly made of? I mean, is the whole thing made of mahogany or a mixture of woods?

.

All the framing is done in mahogany Dr.
The bilge stringers were made of fir but some one added sisters to the original and they may be white oak. New wood for frames and bottom will be African Mahogany as it will all get painted and the grain won't show.

The stem, gripe and the stringers look good so far.

Pic 1 .The stem is the straight frame at the very bow of the boat. The gripe is the curved piece that connects the stem to the keel.
Pic 2-3 shows the stringers that run from the transom to almost the bow of the hull. You can see where they added a sister stringer which was good because the weight and torque of that BB ford engine would have destroyed just a single stringer. They did some cutting to make room for that engine but I should bee able to salvage these.
Pic 4 shows the transom end of the keel. This will need to be replaced. I may look at scarfing in a new piece but most likely I will have to replace the whole length of keel. That's about 17"
What you are seeing is typical for a CC of this age that has never been restored. Some of this can be seen with the bottom still on. Some of it cannot which is why it is really hard to pin down a restorer on a price to do one of these.
Plus once you start, just where do you stop.....LOL
If this boat gets finished it will have about 80% new wood.
Torchie

 

[dutch]

wow... respect man... If I would be working on it, the last 20% would probably end up heating my shop also, broom the place and be done with it...

 

[Torchie]

wow... respect man... If I would be working on it, the last 20% would probably end up heating my shop also, broom the place and be done with it...

LOL Thanks dutch.
The Chris Craft factory used to use all their scrap to feed the factory boilers.

In a lot of ways this would be considered a "Grey" boat, which in restorers speak means it is good only for patterns. (Kind of fits right in here with the way most of our builds start out doesn't it? )
I'm saying 80% right now as I don't have the interior wood panels or the seat frames yet to see what can be saved from that.
Since we have lots of snow here I will be having a bonfire out back this weekend to get rid of all the old wood that is not being saved for patterns.
Torchie

 

[forbigpicture]

Much respect for taking on the challenge ...... and that looks to be a
REALLY big challenge.........[P[P

 

[Torchie]

Much respect for taking on the challenge ...... and that looks to be a
REALLY big challenge.........[P[P

Thanks forbigpicture.
This boat had been sitting in my Bro -in-laws garage for about the last 25 years.
I needed a project and his wife wanted the garage back...... [ddd
Torchie

 

[forbigpicture]

Thanks forbigpicture.
This boat had been sitting in my Bro -in-laws garage for about the last 25 years.
I needed a project and his wife wanted the garage back...... [ddd
Torchie

You my friend are a very good bro in law!!!!![P[P

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

Thanks for the photos and explanations, Torchie.

Another question or three: How is the drive configured? In your picture below, it looks to me like a shaft coupler. Is it direct driven? "V-drive" type in-out box?

.

 

[Torchie]

Thanks for the photos and explanations, Torchie.

Another question or three: How is the drive configured? In your picture below, it looks to me like a shaft coupler. Is it direct driven? "V-drive" type in-out box?

.

It is a basic in and out (Or crash) type trans Dr. They really don't have a neutral position as even when the shift lever is straight up the prop still turns very slowly and intermittently.
The object your are pointing to is a thru hull fitting for the propeller shaft. Not a coupler.
This gets packed with grease to keep the water out. The shaft is a solid 1 piece shaft with a flange on the trans end that bolts to a matching flange on the trans and keyed and thread on the prop end.

Pic 1-2 show what the stock factory engine and trans would look like. K series engine of around 100 HP.

Pic 3 shows the factory option KBL "Hot" multiple carbs set up. I think it boosted the HP to 125.

Pic 4 shows how you can tell if the boat is running a 3 carb set up.. The engine hatch has a extra bell cover on it because the 3rd carb sticks up past the top of the engine hatch.

Pic 5 . I had a better then expected visit to my other Doctor, Dr....LOL. So I came home and inventoried my removed screws. 2200 removed so far. 2000 or so for the bottom and the rest for the one side plank that I have removed.
Thanks to all for the comments...
Torchie

 

[smallfoot]

You got a handle on an original motor or are you putting something else in it?

 

[Torchie]

You got a handle on an original motor or are you putting something else in it?

'

Short answer. Not sure yet smallfoot....
Now for the long version....

The CC that my now Bro-in-law was restoring back when I first met him had a 292 Y block in it .
When his garage burnt down, that boat was in it along with all the Y-block marine components. They were aluminum and didn't survive the fire. The block and heads were at a shop being rebuilt so they survived and he has them.
The problem with the Y-block is the same problem as all obsolete engines have. They have become pricey to get parts for . Even more so for a marine set up. A good set of marine Y block exhaust manifolds go for at least $800-$1000 now. Plus the cost of shipping.
If we were dong a 100 point restoration I would go for an og Hercules as I know where there are a few, but that's not where we are headed with this one. At least not yet....
Around here you can pick up a SBC that have been converted to marine use for a reasonable amount. And I have seen some given away if you haul away the boat that it's in.
It's going to have to be his call.
Torchie

 

[dutch]

I see your SBC point ,but man that factory set up looks awesome [dr Won`t going that route not be justified in the final value of the boat...? No clue what most people would do, but if I were in the market for a boat like that, I wouldn`t even come look at it if it was for sale 2 blocks away....
Dont get me wrong my friend, I love the project and in the end all that counts is how much fun you have with it, but still....

 

[Torchie]

I see your SBC point ,but man that factory set up looks awesome [dr Won`t going that route not be justified in the final value of the boat...? No clue what most people would do, but if I were in the market for a boat like that, I wouldn`t even come look at it if it was for sale 2 blocks away....
Dont get me wrong my friend, I love the project and in the end all that counts is how much fun you have with it, but still....

Valid points dutch....
Much like the restore vs hot rod/ modified debate.....
For this boat to be at the top of it's value bracket it would need to be a true "Numbers matching" full on 100 point restoration. I know the serial number of the original engine as I have copies of all the factory paper work on this boat. Including who ordered it. Were it was shipped to as well as what options came with it.

With that original engine gone the next best thing would be a replication of that using a K series engine. Or if I could find one a KBL with the 3 carbs.
But even then it still is not the original engine. Just the same type.

And just as in cars, there are those that prefer the way a stock vintage vehicle or boat performs vs those that want the vintage look but also more current performance abilities.
The type of bottom that I will be putting on this hull points to that as well. It will no longer have to be "Soaked" every time it is used to not leak like the originals had to. But with out that type of no soak bottom even a new stock style replacement bottom reduces the value of a restored boat by $8000-$10,000. So it's all sort of a trade off.

I personally would go with an original engine as just like all vintage engines a marine flat head 6 has a sound all it's own...

My Bro-in-law will be up for Christmas starting today and one of the things that we will talk about is the engine.
No where near ready for it but as usual, when you aren't ready for something . That's when it appears.
Torchie

 

[Old Iron]

[cl
[P

 

[Torchie]

It would be sweet to pop the engine hatch and see this on a 3 carb KBL engine.[cl
Torcie.

 

[Torchie]

I hope every one had a great Christmas.
Just for giggles I wrapped these up and gave them to the Bro-in-law for Christmas.
Around 2200 screws(in round numbers).
Weigh about 12 lbs. Ho.Ho. Ho......
Torchie

 

[soltz]

What a nice guy [cl
You can never have enough screws

 

[Torchie]

Took advantage of a day of above zero temps to get out in the shop and build a frame rack.
This will be taken apart and the reassembled in the up side down hull.
The bilge stringers, which are the two large beams that run fore and aft will rest on top of this rack allowing me to level and square the hull. Then I can start the process of removing the keel and replacing all the bad frames.
Thanks for looking in....
Torchie

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

Lookin' good Torchie!

I'd imagine a few more jigs and patterns before you're through...

.