F-2 Stang

Z.Z.Rat said:

Good looking dash. Boy the orange looks just like Fords Grabber Orange on the 70' Mustangs. I love that color!

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Ford Grabber Orange, I like that. I was worrying that folks would think it was Chevy Orange.

There are a lot of clear coated, aluminum panels and the frame is black. I think the body will end up gray primer or maybe red oxide or possibly just like it is now. Anyhow I think it needed some color - the orange is sure colorful - and I have a gallon of it (minus the 10 oz or so I sprayed already).

I think your dash turned out great. It's a little tough for me to picture how it would look next to the the rest of the interior, but like jfg455 said, I think it would contrast very well next to the grey interior pieces. [cl [cl

Quick question, where did the pedal assembly come from?

Now you have done it. You know that is my favorite color. I hear you talking about not painting the cab, but looking at that dash starts me to wonder how good it might..... with the cab.....?????

Got another month to spend on body work and paint?

truckster said:

Now you have done it. You know that is my favorite color. I hear you talking about not painting the cab, but looking at that dash starts me to wonder how good it might..... with the cab.....?????

Got another month to spend on body work and paint?

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Actually that's why I have it. I was going to paint your Mercstang orange - just for you. Besides, orange is my favorite color also.

I keep trying to decide if I want to spend a month on body work to get a result that will be marginal at best. There is always going to be a lot of rust buried under the filler and paint. I don't think, so.

Motorhead said:

I think your dash turned out great. It's a little tough for me to picture how it would look next to the the rest of the interior, but like jfg455 said, I think it would contrast very well next to the grey interior pieces. [cl [cl

Quick question, where did the pedal assembly come from?

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Thanks on the dash. I think the black and orange will probably look good at the end of October and a bit weird the rest of the time. But ...

Page 4, post 32 shows the complete pedal assembly. I used photos of Kugal's 90 degree master cylinder bracket for inspiration and designed my own around the Mustang booster. A model of the linkage helped achieve the straightest movement possible. I also made the clutch master bracket to fit the Wilwood master. The tapers in the brake and clutch arms were forged. Oilite bronze bushings and a sperical ball bearing keep the brake action smooth with relatively low friction. The pins are all stainless.

I now have working wipers. well I don't know how well they will wipe - I'll need a windshield to get the spring tension.

I used the Mustange link arms - cut them up and added adjustment, a rod end on the Newport Engineering motor, and machined a new tower (at least that what the Bob Drake Catalog calls them) using the Mustang splined shaft.

The Mustang arms were modifired to accept the only 10" blades I could find at A Zone.

The task, was made much easier by not having a firewall in the way. I hope I remember that on any future projects.

Dude! I just spent most of my morning reading through this build, time well spent.

Very much looking forward to the finished product.

AWESOME WORK [cl

SugarRay8 said:

Dude! I just spent most of my morning reading through this build, time well spent.

Very much looking forward to the finished product.

AWESOME WORK [cl

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Thanks, It's getting to be a never ending story.

Me, too. I keep thinking it is almost finshed then I look at what's left and I'm starting to think it never will be!

Now you can drive your truck all year round, even on those 4 days that it rains here.

All jokes aside, it looks really nice. Making a windshield wiper assembly out of pretty much scratch is a big deal. What may seem easy on paper is really difficult to execute. Well done my friend! [cl

Motorhead said:

Now you can drive your truck all year round, even on those 4 days that it rains here.

All jokes aside, it looks really nice. Making a windshield wiper assembly out of pretty much scratch is a big deal. What may seem easy on paper is really difficult to execute. Well done my friend! [cl

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Thanks Motorhead. It was more difficult than I had imagined. The paper part was kind of mind boggling for me, but getting the last few degrees of rotation (so the wiper didn't stop right in the middle of the driver's windshield) was a matter of trimming the links and dash braces a little at a time until nothing hit- about 2 days worth.

Of course, the fact that they will never get used didn't help my attitude either.

Paint

Here's an update.

I used Zero Rust, which is a direct to metal, rust converting paint. I had mechanically stripped most of the paint and rust and treated the surfaces with PickelX 20. Zero Rust recommends light coats and using different colors so the coverage will be evident. The first coat was black, 2nd red oxide, followed by gray. I have another coat of gray to shoot tomorrow a.m.

ZR is a solvent evaporation cure so it has helped having the thermometer hover around 110 degrees. (AZ is one of the few places where the work days get shorter in the summer, usually by 3 pm I've had it -today it was 10:30 when it hit 110).

The electric forklift makes a great paint rack - the adjustable height is handy. The tree works well also. The ladders - ok

All your sheet metal looks great. I can't imagine working in that heat. It hit 85 here today and I was roasting!

Now that's what I call hangin' the laundry, or as my neighbor calls it when I'm painting parts in the driveway - " the redneck clothesline ".
Lookin' gooood !!

Looks great! What will be the final color?

It's been getting really hot lately. It was 117 ºF yesterday. I haven't been able to do much work. The heat kills all my motivation and energy the moment I step in the garage.

It does look like a red neck clothes line.

The cab and doors look pretty good - I spent a lot of time working on the roof and around the rear window. I left the rest with the dents and dings and rust pock marks. The bed sides and tail gate I left alone they're pretty wrinkly.

Gray is the final color - I think.

I find it usually helps to start about 5 am. Today, though it was almost 90 at 5:30 plus about 30 % humidity - so much for the dry heat.

DJ your metal work is amazing.

Theres a paint which has Iron oxide in it ,it gose on black then spray on the activator and you get instant Rust

http://www.ugp.com.au/UGP_Rust Paint.html

hooligan said:

DJ your metal work is amazing.

Theres a paint which has Iron oxide in it ,it gose on black then spray on the activator and you get instant Rust

http://www.ugp.com.au/UGP_Rust Paint.html

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Thanks,

That's interesting stuff, I haven't seen it before. I'm considering airbrushing on some rust patina - on the other hand it will probably show up on its own in a few months.

haha! You guys in the south and west crack me up! Faux rust and patina. I have an 03 silverado in my bay right now with 86K miles on it. It needs all of the brake lines relaced because they rotted out! All we do up here is fix rust on our daily drivers. it is just weird to me to try and add fake rust to anything. even our nice stuff that is in storage we are always fighting corrosion issues every year! [S

The rust here is terrible. My rear roll pan has been sitting around for over 6 months - for the last month it's been outside. The sucker still isn't rusted. (What looks like rust was deposited by some talented birds). If you want rust you gotta paint it on! (LOL) The Scotchbrite was used to take the gloss off the dash.

I wired the gauges yesterday and installed them. Made templates for the glass and delivered them to the glass guys today. Maybe next week it will be a driver.