earthman
Fascinated by rolling objects!
Well that is nifty i must say. 
1955 Ranch Wagon Cruiser
- Thread starter DJ3100
- Start date
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soltz
The Rat Captain
That looks great.
I like the way people around here done buy things, they make them [cl
Don't make the mistake i did when i some plating a while back, don't put it to a buffing wheel, plating is to thin and goes away quick.
have fun and beware of the acid
I like the way people around here done buy things, they make them [cl
Don't make the mistake i did when i some plating a while back, don't put it to a buffing wheel, plating is to thin and goes away quick.
have fun and beware of the acid
DJ3100
Well-known member
That looks great.
I like the way people around here done buy things, they make them [cl
Don't make the mistake i did when i some plating a while back, don't put it to a buffing wheel, plating is to thin and goes away quick.
have fun and beware of the acid
Acid always concerns me. I had a friend who died from being overwhelmed by acid fumes when he was stripping some anodized parts.
The zinc continues to build up. Supposedly you can get .025". (That would be a real problem on threaded parts.) So far, I have not gotten anything like that and every piece I tried on the buffing wheel had the plating removed. The gray Scotchbrite seems to work well. Removes the whitish/gray surface and gives it a little shine.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Hood latch
Here's what the hood latch looked like when I started.
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I disassembled it, blasted it, soaked it in muriatic acid and Zinc plated it.
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The safety latch spring was broken (upper one in the photo). I bought a compression spring and bent it to work.
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I think this is the first thing I have been able to actually finish in months.
Here's what the hood latch looked like when I started.
I disassembled it, blasted it, soaked it in muriatic acid and Zinc plated it.
The safety latch spring was broken (upper one in the photo). I bought a compression spring and bent it to work.
I think this is the first thing I have been able to actually finish in months.
Old Iron
Well-known member
That really looks good!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
8literbeater
Well-known member
It looks as good as new now.
earthman
Fascinated by rolling objects!
Looks like a potential side business. Nice.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Thanks everyone.
As for a side business - I don't think so. I keep wishing I hadn't avoided chemistry throughout every bit of my education.
As for a side business - I don't think so. I keep wishing I hadn't avoided chemistry throughout every bit of my education.
DJ3100
Well-known member
One issue with the plating is that some areas don't want to see the plating. On this part I changed the orientation in the plating bath several times and still couldn't get the pocket to plate.
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DJ3100
Well-known member
I had ignored this part that goes between the fenders and supports the front of the hood. I finally figured out that it needs to be in place before the front sheet metal can be aligned. Monday it and some other parts got painted.
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I also painted the latch for the lift gate and installed it. Now the lift gate won't close without scraping on the lower gate. The problem (I hope) is the slop in the hinges. Even though each joint only has les than 1/32" of slop, there are 7 joints and the total movement of the tailgate is more than 1/8".
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This is the worst one.
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I was trying to avoid messing with these, but I decided to do one at a time and leave the other for a pattern. After drilling one rivet out, I found only one side as worn. It was oval shaped and measured .480 to .520. I opened it to .531; made and pressed in a bushing. Then modified a 3/8" bolt. A modified 1/4-20 bolt will be lock-tighted in to make the other side of the "rivet".
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I only made a couple, then the joints I thought were OK started looking not so good, so I ended up with these. The plate shows the bushing pressed in. The press is an .008" interference, so I have to ream the hole after installing.
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I also painted the latch for the lift gate and installed it. Now the lift gate won't close without scraping on the lower gate. The problem (I hope) is the slop in the hinges. Even though each joint only has les than 1/32" of slop, there are 7 joints and the total movement of the tailgate is more than 1/8".
This is the worst one.
I was trying to avoid messing with these, but I decided to do one at a time and leave the other for a pattern. After drilling one rivet out, I found only one side as worn. It was oval shaped and measured .480 to .520. I opened it to .531; made and pressed in a bushing. Then modified a 3/8" bolt. A modified 1/4-20 bolt will be lock-tighted in to make the other side of the "rivet".
I only made a couple, then the joints I thought were OK started looking not so good, so I ended up with these. The plate shows the bushing pressed in. The press is an .008" interference, so I have to ream the hole after installing.
smallfoot
He's rockin' the "Nuttin Special"!
I played with some electrolisis some time back and your approach was different. I have a question. You said you soaked the part in muriatic acid first before the immersion. Did you have to stabilize the muriatic before you dunked the piece or go straight into it?
Old Iron
Well-known member
Nice
[P [P [P
[P [P [P
DJ3100
Well-known member
I didn't do anything to the muriatic acid other than pour it into the distilled water to get a 50-50 mix. I don't know how to stabilize it or why it might it might be a good idea.
I blast the parts. Clean them with Simple Green or acetone or wax & grease remover. Dunk in distilled water. The DW should sheet off. If it beads up, more cleaning is needed. Then in the diluted muriatic acid. If there is rust or plating, the muriatic acid will remove it. Then another DW dunk; wire it and put it in the tank to plate.
smallfoot
He's rockin' the "Nuttin Special"!
I understand the muriatic acid was for cleaning but I didn't catch the diluted part. Thanks. I was concerned if the muriatic would keep on working depending what your solution for the process was. I have always stopped the muriatic working with baking soda and water. That just neutralizes the acid.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Oh, I understand. Some of the websites did suggest a neutralizing bath after the acid dip. However, the electrolight is acid based, so I think that a tiny amount of residual acid left on the part would be better than a small amount of the neutralizing base.
I think that muriatic does not attack the steel. When It quits bubbling it is pretty much done doing anything to the steel. The longest I have left a part in the MA bath is about 20 minutes and couldn't see any evidence of the steel being etched.
I would not put pot metal or aluminum in the muriatic acid. Copper seems to be OK.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Hood
The hood is not co-operating. The GT40 on Fast and Loud needed the hood springs in order for the hood to fit. Maybe hood springs will help.
First thing I figured out was that this is not a Chevy! There is a lip on the hood that prevents mounting the springs. After unbolting the hood, I realized the angle was wrong to be able to stretch the springs like you would on a Chevy. It has to be pulled down, into the inner fender.
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Off came the hinges. Holding one in the vise, I used the chain to pull the spring. It moved 1/2" I needed 2". Out came the ratchet strap. That didn't work. Then the come-along.
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Springs are on.
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But the hood still needs to moved back at least 1/4".
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I'm out of ideas except for making more adjustment on the hinges. Off came the hinges again (did I mention what a pain it is to unbolt the hood and remove the hinges?). The one on the right in the pic has the elongated slots - they're both done now.
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The gap is now OK, but the back of the hood needs to go down - maybe tomorrow.
The hood is not co-operating. The GT40 on Fast and Loud needed the hood springs in order for the hood to fit. Maybe hood springs will help.
First thing I figured out was that this is not a Chevy! There is a lip on the hood that prevents mounting the springs. After unbolting the hood, I realized the angle was wrong to be able to stretch the springs like you would on a Chevy. It has to be pulled down, into the inner fender.
Off came the hinges. Holding one in the vise, I used the chain to pull the spring. It moved 1/2" I needed 2". Out came the ratchet strap. That didn't work. Then the come-along.
Springs are on.
But the hood still needs to moved back at least 1/4".
I'm out of ideas except for making more adjustment on the hinges. Off came the hinges again (did I mention what a pain it is to unbolt the hood and remove the hinges?). The one on the right in the pic has the elongated slots - they're both done now.
The gap is now OK, but the back of the hood needs to go down - maybe tomorrow.
Torchie
Well-known member
Can't even begin to tell you how many times I have had the hood off and on with my project.
I did the same as you and elongated the holes. And yes the springs do make a difference as they seem to pull the hinge down farther.
Be glad that you didn't have to add anything to the back edge of the hood to close the gap..
Looking good....[P [P [P
Torchie
I did the same as you and elongated the holes. And yes the springs do make a difference as they seem to pull the hinge down farther.
Be glad that you didn't have to add anything to the back edge of the hood to close the gap..
Looking good....[P [P [P
Torchie
8literbeater
Well-known member
What is this "hood" thing you speak of?
Usually I just jam screwdrivers and punches into the coils to stretch them out enough to fit. If you had to stretch them 2 inches to fit, they must stretch a long way when the hood is closed.
Usually I just jam screwdrivers and punches into the coils to stretch them out enough to fit. If you had to stretch them 2 inches to fit, they must stretch a long way when the hood is closed.
DJ3100
Well-known member
What is this "hood" thing you speak of?
Usually I just jam screwdrivers and punches into the coils to stretch them out enough to fit. If you had to stretch them 2 inches to fit, they must stretch a long way when the hood is closed.
Yeah, that's my experience, but I have only worked on GM stuff. I googled installing Ford hood hinges and got nothing but GM responses. I am sure they are the original springs. They do seem to work OK, but the hood is really floppy.
Torchie - The hood is lining up front and back so I won't be needing to add material and I am happy about that. Pretty much there is nothing else I'm happy about with this front sheet metal.
Torchie
Well-known member
If you think that this is bad you should try getting repro sheet metal parts to line up.
Your wagon is the same age as I am and nothing fits right on me any more either.
Lots of stretching and flexing since the day that wagon was first put together. Once it it is done you will be the only one that notices all the little things.
I had a friend that used to sell everything that he bought and redid because he just couldn't get over the fact that nothing turned out as good as he wanted it too. And his work was meticulous.
From what I can see. You are doing great......[cl
Torchie
