Big Block Bantam

You keep us entertained and awed Bob. I'm going to be without a shop for an indefinite period but your projects will keep me inspired until i can get back in the game. Thanks for sharing.

I'm happy you are enjoying the rebuild, E-Man. I hope you have an outlet for your creative energy.
On the engine front, the block is cleaned and the main studs, bearings, caps and crank are installed. Rings are on the pistons. I've had lots of starter problems lately so the next step is to make sure the flex plate and starter are in perfect harmony with each other.
The bare block and trans are out of the car. Now to pressure wash the frame and suspension and freshen the chassis paint.
I had too much angle on the drag link so the spindle mounting point was raised. Pic to come, if I remember.

Put two coats of Rustoleum Ford Tractor Red on the frame. It's ready to receive the engine and trans. I have all the parts to assemble the short block. The 406 should be around 400 hp.

I like using the 99-04 4.3 V6 starters.
I know you know this but, make sure the bolts are actual starter bolts.

Thr red paint and killer chassis just goes together dont it?!. Keep having loads of fun!

Looks good Bob!

Coming along nicely. Keep it up !

Old Iron said:

I like using the 99-04 4.3 V6 starters.
I know you know this but, make sure the bolts are actual starter bolts.

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A few years ago I went to the Chevy dealership to get OEM starter bolts. The counter guy told me they buy theirs from NAPA.

On the engine assembly front I tried to put the pistons and rods in the block but my adjustable ring compressor wouldn't cooperate. After years of usage it just became too wobbly especially on the short skirt pistons. So I bought one of these one size only super trick tapered sleeve installers.

Been using those sleeves for years and love them.
I actually have couple that has a split with a hose clamp to adjust it for different size pistons it goes from standard 4" to 4.090 and 4.125 to 4.190 from Speedway

Engine is assembled and along with the trans is in the car. We are 89.653 % done. Going to try something different with the headers. Instead of gaskets (I've use all kinds) I'm using high temp silicone.

Now on to the driveshaft. This is quite a story. We go back to when I first built the car. I only drove it once for any distance. If you look back on this thread there's my observation about how it shook and vibrated while mildly accelerating. Rolling in Neutral, no vibration. So I changed the converter. No improvement. I then blamed it on the 400 Turbo trans. I bought it used hoping it was good. Read articles about problems with them, including vibrations. So I decided to change to a built up 350 Turbo I had. Along with that change I also decided to lower the compression in the 406 sbc. That's what reactivated this thread.

So I took the engine, trans and driveshaft out and began the conversion. After the bulk of reassembly, it was time to get the driveshaft lengthened and fitted for a 350 slip yoke. Got the driveshaft back and installed it. BUT, I noticed it fit too easily in the 8 3/4" Mopar rear end pinion yoke. The u-joint cups were too small in diameter. Also, there was no way to center the u-joint in the yoke.
Yes folks, It was the wrong u-joint all along. The source of the vibration. The reason I changed converters, The reason I removed the trans and sold it as a core. The reason I made a new crossmember and trans cover and other odds and ends. None of this would have been necessary if only I would have noticed the ill fitting joint originally.

I went to NAPA and got a conversion u-joint. Driveshaft installed. Everybody is happy.

Still putting it back together. Today the headers. I tripped across some Lexan in the attic of the garage. Scrounged enough to make all the windows. Which I did. The windshield was done a while ago.

That’s a very nice ride !!!

Looking good!

bob w said:

Engine is assembled and along with the trans is in the car. We are 89.653 % done. Going to try something different with the headers. Instead of gaskets (I've use all kinds) I'm using high temp silicone.

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I've heard good things about Remflex gaskets but haven't used them myself.

https://catalog.remflex.com/

I used Remflex gaskets once and thought they were very good. But not necessary for my application.

I got the engine started today but no oil pressure on the gauge. Checked under the valve covers and looked like the rockers were oiling. Still unsure, I pulled the distributor and used a preoiler on a drill motor. Sure enough, oil to the rockers but still no reading on the gauge. Then I made a rookie mistake. I pulled the Skinny copper line from the block and ran the preoiler with a drill motor. The result was a geyser of oil shooting almost to the ceiling out of that little hole in the block. Clean up took 2 hours. Turned out the 1/8" copper line was squeezed shut by the "wedding band" fitting. Much ado about nothing.

The clean up sucks, but that is the best possible outcome for no oil pressure.

I always have problems with those little skinny copper lines used on mine too! Once I connect them one time, I've never had one seal again after opening it up. I went to Ace hardware and bought a bunch of the ferrules(wedding bands) and change them every time I have to reconnect that line.

smallfoot said:

I always have problems with those little skinny copper lines used on mine too! Once I connect them one time, I've never had one seal again after opening it up. I went to Ace hardware and bought a bunch of the ferrules(wedding bands) and change them every time I have to reconnect that line.

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The ferrules deform, so they're designed to be single-use.

Yessir, I realize that but they should slow the flow down a little. Even with extra tight treatment it looks like somebody poured the oil on the rear of the motor expecting it to suck in somewhere.