1929 Essex/Truck

[NickFish]

good luck dozer Im keeping my fingers crossed for you

 

[DozerII]

Thanks Nick

 

[DozerII]

Found a product in Canada for insulating and sound proofing. All the ones available in the U.S. cost us a fortune to get shipped up here. This stuff is available at Rona Home centers in two widths and either white or plain aluminum. I got the 6" x 16' rolls for $12.00 each.



And here are my aluminum kick panels installed and backed with the Resisto.

 

[willyD]

I've used basically the same stuff but a different brand down here before. It was in a modern car stereo install though. I'm honestly not sure if it helped that much in that particular case and the car wasn't all that noisy to start with. It did make my car smell very strongly of roofing tar for a few weeks though! The smell completely disappeared after awhile though. I should try some in my doors in my Willys and see if it helps.

 

[DozerII]

I've used basically the same stuff but a different brand down here before. It was in a modern car stereo install though. I'm honestly not sure if it helped that much in that particular case and the car wasn't all that noisy to start with. It did make my car smell very strongly of roofing tar for a few weeks though! The smell completely disappeared after awhile though. I should try some in my doors in my Willys and see if it helps.

I have heard the same about the smell, but it is supposed to gas off pretty quick and loose the smell. From what I have read it is real close to the really pricey stereo stuff, but 1/4 the price.

 

[willyD]

That's pretty much what I had read too. I've also heard that it isn't as good from other places. I figure, for the price it is well worth it. And the smell does go away fairly quick. Fabreeze actually helps a lot if it's bothering you.

 

[DozerII]

Thanks willy

 

[DozerII]

One of the items the Vehicle Inspector was concerned with was the fuel tank being at the the back of the box, my fix for that was to build a rear bumper using a piece of 2"drill pipe and a couple of 1910 ish cultivator shanks. If it doesn't grow on me it will come off after the inspection.





Then I built a couple lower door panels out of some salvaged aluminum from an old boat trailer fenders. Had to build a mold in a chunk of 3"x16"spruce to put the blisters in fo clearance on the door openers.
The top section of the door panels will be Red and black vinyl.

 

[willyD]

Lookin good. Any particular reason you put your tank at the back of the bed rather than the front?

 

[DozerII]

Lookin good. Any particular reason you put your tank at the back of the bed rather than the front?

Mostly I didn't want it right behind the cab, and I figured the weight back there would be a good thing.

 

[Torchie]

I dig the bumper and nice reuse on the boat trailer fenders. [cl
[P [P [P
Torchie

 

[peabody]

One of the items the Vehicle Inspector was concerned with was the fuel tank being at the the back of the box, my fix for that was to build a rear bumper using a piece of 2"drill pipe and a couple of 1910 ish cultivator shanks. If it doesn't grow on me it will come off after the inspection.





Then I built a couple lower door panels out of some salvaged aluminum from an old boat trailer fenders. Had to build a mold in a chunk of 3"x16"spruce to put the blisters in fo clearance on the door openers.
The top section of the door panels will be Red and black vinyl.

Will the tailgate open ???[P

 

[Sam_Fear]

If you keep the bumper, loose the gate chains.

 

[soltz]

Improvise adapt and overcome [cl
I like the way you think.

 

[DozerII]

I dig the bumper and nice reuse on the boat trailer fenders. [cl
[P [P [P
Torchie

Thanks Torchie

Will the tailgate open ???[P

Not with out taking the two bolts out of the bumper, but there is really no reason to open the tailgate as the rear frame comes to within 8" of the top.

If you keep the bumper, loose the gate chains.

Why do you suggest removing the chains?

Improvise adapt and overcome [cl
I like the way you think.

Thanks soltz

 

[peabody]

Thanks Torchie



Not with out taking the two bolts out of the bumper, but there is really no reason to open the tailgate as the rear frame comes to within 8" of the top.



Why do you suggest removing the chains?



Thanks soltz

Thanks.

Me2 also ?
Sam... why remove the gate chains ?

 

[Gunzenrosa]

Looking good Dozer. What was the concern about the fuel tank? Rear impact I take it?

 

[DozerII]

Looking good Dozer. What was the concern about the fuel tank? Rear impact I take it?

yup, I had to remind him most vehicles from the 70,80's had there fuel tank right at the rear in [Sfront of a little tin

 

[DozerII]

Well I hit a triple and a bit, I'd say I'm 95% there. I did get a vin# assigned to the car, but to finish off the safety so I can plate it I have a short list. According to the two Sask Vehicle inspectors and the Licensed Tech doing the safety, the only reason there is a short list is the quality of the build.

So what I have to do is [S put two 1 inch X 2 inch amber reflectors one on the side of each head light and two red ones, one on each side of the back corner of the box.

I have to build some sort of a shift indicator that says what gear you are in.

I have to hook up four way flashers

The glass shop that built my windshield failed to put an etched mark on the corner certifying it is laminated glass.

I forgot to put a battery hold down on.

I also had to forward them specs for the Heim joints on my hairpins, they really don't like heim joints, and the specs for my air bags.

I have to adjust my toe in as it is out by a 1/16 of an inch but I did build it straight, on the four wheel computer aligner front to rear I'm within .014 degrees.


For the most part I'm really happy, but it will probably turn into two more weeks and another trip to the city to finish the Safety.

[cl[cl

 

[Torchie]

Keep at it.
You are almost there.[cl [cl [cl
[P[P[P
Torchie