1936 Diamond T with 6BT cummins

[bkvail]

getting a lot closer! We got the floors done, the underside of the cab finish welded, sealed and undercoated. That undercoating stuff is awesome! Then, we got the front brake lines bent too.... we will be deer hunting this weekend, but plan to set aside Sunday for working on the truck. Pics at http://36hillbillydeluxe.com

 

[bkvail]

We are getting so close to it being a driver! We started it for the first time in our 4 year build!!! (engine was in a running/driving Dodge 3/4 ton pickup when we started the build)
link to the blog post: http://www.36hillbillydeluxe.com/2016/10/shes-alive-part-deux.html

link to the youtube video: https://youtu.be/7u-zDqyXVCQ

We ordered a new flare kit from Eastwood, so we plan to redo some brake lines that didn't work out so great with the cheapo HF tool. And, do the hardlines for the fuel tank. Possibly run battery cables - but we are trying to decide how to deal with battery cables through our battery box (that is made from a converted fuel tank) and still be sealed from the elements.

 

[kenny c]

You could use rubber grommets or you coulld use bolt through connector. I think Speedway and Jegs sell them. I think your battery box needs to be vented . Batterys produce gasses that have to dissipate.

 

[bkvail]

You could use rubber grommets or you coulld use bolt through connector. I think Speedway and Jegs sell them. I think your battery box needs to be vented . Batterys produce gasses that have to dissipate.

We made the battery box from a round 33 gallon fuel tank - it has an open drain hole in the bottom, so it is far from 'air tight'

 

[bkvail]

oh, I am so behind on this build thread! We actually DROVE the truck for the first time a couple weeks ago. Front fenders/hood/grill shell are still off because of running fuel and brake lines, but it runs and drives, woohoo!

https://youtu.be/rnADTEom6ZQ youtube video of the first drive

so, the last couple weeks I have been working on rusty screws on our parts truck doors to salvage the door locks/etc. Fun fun (not)

20170218_124314 by Karin Vail, on Flickr

20170223_131441 by Karin Vail, on Flickr

20170223_151824 by Karin Vail, on Flickr

I just love our dash panels we made (we just put in the oil pressure and water temp gauges temporarily for the test drive - we can't leave anything in the truck until the cab is sealed up)

20170212_114722 by Karin Vail, on Flickr

this was a mock-up with all the gauges
IMG_20161115_174334 by Karin Vail, on Flickr

 

[Bamamav]

Great! [cl Truck sounds good! Looks like when he started driving it, he didn't want to stop. Going to be a nice one when y'all get finished.[cl[cl[cl

 

[Skip]

Now that looks like fun.

Nice Western Star log truck there, too.

 

[smallfoot]

Truck sounded great and looks awesome!!![cl[P

 

[DozerII]

Nice job, love the dash.[cl[cl

 

[bkvail]

Anybody know of a a way to repair the inner splines of a door handle? Or at least make the ones left not completely strip out? The handle has a bit of a slop and I am afraid it is going to strip. The handle is pot metal I believe (the mechanism is good solid steel). Thinking maybe there is something I can melt in there and then put a mechanism on until it sets up? Something removeable! I have an extra mechanism so I could do it on the bench. Any ideas??? I only have one extra handle and it is completely stripped out. I could test something out on that one.....
20170226_150047-1-1 by Karin Vail, on Flickr

20170226_150129-1 by Karin Vail, on Flickr

Also, any ideas on door latch alignment? Any reproductions that would work? We have to graft the b-pillar from our 37 parts truck onto the 36 (36 was originally wood b-pillar). Anyhow, the alignment is broken (would have had 2 spring loaded bits top and bottom).

20170225_155133 by Karin Vail, on Flickr

20170225_155104 by Karin Vail, on Flickr

 

[DozerII]

Just my 2 cents, but I would change to bear claw style latches. On the stripped handle, could you clean the splines really good then coat it with silicone spray or some kind of mold release then clean the inside of the handle well coat it with a thin layer of JB weld then put the two together till set up??

 

[bkvail]

Just my 2 cents, but I would change to bear claw style latches. On the stripped handle, could you clean the splines really good then coat it with silicone spray or some kind of mold release then clean the inside of the handle well coat it with a thin layer of JB weld then put the two together till set up??

oh, the latch conversion idea has me nauseous! I will post another pic of the door. I worry that it would be too hard to make it look like it was 'supposed to be'. I am already really concerned about the b-pillar partial transplant. - AND, I don't think we could make the original handles work with that style latch? They are so unique. I will post pics of a latch handle too....

The mold release/JB weld idea is something to consider, thanks

 

[Bamamav]

As to your door handles......I doubt you will be able to save the old ones. Probably made of pot metal, too soft after all these years. If you have one of the door shafts out, you could go to a old junk yard and might find something that would fit, maybe Mack or old White. They might even be the same as GM truck and pickup. If they are the same size and spline, you could get new repops.

You might find the door dovetails reproduced for a Ford or GM might work. Would take some looking at some of the reproduction places like Dennis Carpenter or Chevy's of the 40's, but I'd bet there is something that could be made to work since that is a common design for back then. The bearclaw design is safer, and You probably could use some kind of Ford handle that looks close to what you have.

 

[bkvail]

As to your door handles......I doubt you will be able to save the old ones. Probably made of pot metal, too soft after all these years. If you have one of the door shafts out, you could go to a old junk yard and might find something that would fit, maybe Mack or old White. They might even be the same as GM truck and pickup. If they are the same size and spline, you could get new repops.
.

what is frustrating me - all the repops show the front of the handle all pretty and shiny and show NO pics of the backside of the handles or give specs on how they attach. They don't think about the person who is looking for a different brand vehicle The inner door release handles are splined, but the window crank and windshield crank handles are square on the DT. I would love to be able to buy all new repops in a period correct style, I just can't find them listed with vital information necessary to figure out if they will work or not

 

[Bamamav]

Early Ford used square shafts. Gm and 60's Ford used splined shafts for sure.

 

[bkvail]

we worked on some bits and pieces this last weekend - Brian cleaned up the routing of the wiring and fuel lines (I forgot to take a pic).
I mostly worked on making a dash extension. we wanted it to be lower to hide the wiring better, but also to add switches that we didn't want cluttering up the figured maple dash that we built
First I made a cardboard template of what I wanted, then transferred that to plywood.

[/url]20170312_121031 by Karin Vail, on Flickr[/IMG]

then, used the plywood to mark the 20g steel - and drew 1'' on either side for flanges. Brian cut it out with the plasma and I cleaned up the edges.

[/url]20170312_131521 by Karin Vail, on Flickr[/IMG]

Then, realized I would need a second plywood piece identical to clamp the sheet steel between them to bend the flanges (I only wish I had a tipping die for the bead roller, I can imagine that would have been so much easier!) At this point, I had to take it out from between the bucks and Brian helped shrink the corners (two person job!)

[/url]20170312_145319 by Karin Vail, on Flickr[/IMG]

Then, I was able to finish pounding the first flange over. Was glad to see it was going to work!

[/url]20170312_155737 by Karin Vail, on Flickr[/IMG]

Back betwee the bucks and pound the second flange in the opposite direction. Some more shrinking had to happen on the long middle curve (and slight stretching on the tight inner curves)

[/url]20170312_173434 by Karin Vail, on Flickr[/IMG]

All in all, I was very pleased how it turned out! I did have a little flattening to do after this pic, but it got too dark for pics outside after that.

[/url]20170312_172321 by Karin Vail, on Flickr[/IMG]

We have had a lot of planning to do on this project lately - wiring and such is coming soon. I hope. I would like to get the interior painted before any wiring is done though - so we just need to finish up the b-pillars before we can do that (and have warm enough weather for painting!)

 

[Old Iron]

I like the way the extension looks on the dash. These dashes are so short the stuff behind them is hard to hide.

 

[bkvail]

I like the way the extension looks on the dash. These dashes are so short the stuff behind them is hard to hide.

yes, they are so short, they hide nothing! We had the idea in our head from the beginning of the build - but then saw a truck with pretty much our exact idea at a truck show, so we knew we were on the right train of thought! Brian wants a center console that ties into this as well, but something that curves from the dash to the tunnel - I am thinking about tackling that this weekend....

 

[kenny c]

I like it!

 

[akatao]

[cl nice work