I know that the gaps weren't perfect when new but I think there's room for improvement. It only needs to be a little better.
1937 Ford Pickup
- Thread starter kenny c
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rods Rule:
BillM
Well-known member
Looks good to me Kenny!
Thanks. I'm gaining on it.
Kenny .. is the cab bolted solid down ?? that can alter door gaps
may be hinge alignment as well. Things do sag after 50-60years - ask Dolly
may be hinge alignment as well. Things do sag after 50-60years - ask Dolly
28sawrig
Well-known member
A sheet metal shim behind the hinge is a good way to adjust. Move the shims in or out helps with hinge bind if you run into that.
Torchie
Well-known member
My 2 cents...
If the belt lines line up you are golden.
A little round rod goes a long way to getting your gaps.
Most likely the cab is out of square. Hinges will sag but doors don’t usually become un square.
Looking good kenny. You can get there from here.
Torchie
If the belt lines line up you are golden.
A little round rod goes a long way to getting your gaps.
Most likely the cab is out of square. Hinges will sag but doors don’t usually become un square.
Looking good kenny. You can get there from here.
Torchie
Thanks guys. I beat on it tonight and I'm happy with it. I put a piece of 3" channel across the passenger door opening and one across the top of the door at the rear and a 3" block of wood in the door jam at the bottom rear. Then I pulled the top in with a ratchet strap. That got the twist out. After that I pulled the hinge pins and the plates out of the jams. I bent them a little in the press and put them back together. Now I have 3/16" gap front and rear. [dr[cl. After that I pulled the door latch out and fixed a crack in the linkage and straightened the bent pieces. It works better. Now on to the passenger side.[
DozerII
Well-known member
Persistence pays off, the other one should go way quicker after doing the first one. [P[P
Thanks guys. I beat on it tonight and I'm happy with it. I put a piece of 3" channel across the passenger door opening and one across the top of the door at the rear and a 3" block of wood in the door jam at the bottom rear. Then I pulled the top in with a ratchet strap. That got the twist out. After that I pulled the hinge pins and the plates out of the jams. I bent them a little in the press and put them back together. Now I have 3/16" gap front and rear. [dr[cl. After that I pulled the door latch out and fixed a crack in the linkage and straightened the bent pieces. It works better. Now on to the passenger side.[
when the masses say "they are only original once" this is probably what they mean haha.
i am saving this post for the next prewar!
I think someone said stubborness. Yes the other one has to be easier. Thanks for the help and support everyone.[
84 year old rot repair
Got some more done on the passenger door. Not as bad as drivers door. This side was twisted the opposite direction as the drivers. Kind of used the same method as the driver. Ratchet strap at the bottom and 3 inch block at the top. Small patch on the inner door panel. 90 degree bend then shrink to arch of outer then cut straight to weld to inner panel. For the outer panel kind of the same but shrink both legs for the compound curve. I also found some damage by the lower hinge that was previously repaired. Also welded up a bunch small rust holes. Thanks for checking in. [
Got some more done on the passenger door. Not as bad as drivers door. This side was twisted the opposite direction as the drivers. Kind of used the same method as the driver. Ratchet strap at the bottom and 3 inch block at the top. Small patch on the inner door panel. 90 degree bend then shrink to arch of outer then cut straight to weld to inner panel. For the outer panel kind of the same but shrink both legs for the compound curve. I also found some damage by the lower hinge that was previously repaired. Also welded up a bunch small rust holes. Thanks for checking in. [
Attachments
Getting ready for a hair cut
Got the doors hung and closing properly. Pulled the windshield frame. Braced the inside of the cab and trimmed the 36 firewall that is going to replace the hacked up and rusted one with the battery tray that is rotted away. I'm going to replace it and the dash board after the chop. I'm thinking I can chop it three and a half inches and not have to shorten the rear window. I like the looks of more chop but I don't think it's a good idea. I'll take out 3 1/2 and see what it looks like.[S[S[
Got the doors hung and closing properly. Pulled the windshield frame. Braced the inside of the cab and trimmed the 36 firewall that is going to replace the hacked up and rusted one with the battery tray that is rotted away. I'm going to replace it and the dash board after the chop. I'm thinking I can chop it three and a half inches and not have to shorten the rear window. I like the looks of more chop but I don't think it's a good idea. I'll take out 3 1/2 and see what it looks like.[S[S[
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Torchie
Well-known member
Torchie
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- Nov 5, 2015
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[cl[P
DozerII
Well-known member
I like watching hair cuts. [P[P[P
BillM
Well-known member
Good luck with the chop Kenny!
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Measure twice and cut once. Advice from my Grandma. Good luck with it.
Old Iron
Well-known member
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MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
Kenny, most of that era of trucks that I've come across, have a battery tray chopped into the firewall right there. That still doesn't make it cool though, you have to cover that hole up and find a different place to put your battery. I hid a long slim battery between the bucket seats on mine.
Those cabs are already 2" shallower than the next era of cab, so I think a 3 1/2" chop will be lots.
Good Luck.
Those cabs are already 2" shallower than the next era of cab, so I think a 3 1/2" chop will be lots.
Good Luck.
Bill. I've been measuring a lot. and eye balling everything. Then I'm checking it some more. Mac I'm moving the battery to back behind the cab on the inside of the frame. I like the look of a firewall with as little clutter as possible. I've been looking at a few chops on this style cab and I think three and a half will be enough and still be able to see out the windshield. When I chop it I'm going to leave enough material below the rear window so if I have to raise the bottom of it I can if I don't feel the proportions are right. I hope this makes sense.[S[[
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