1937 Ford Pickup

[kenny c]

Bill. I've been measuring a lot. and eye balling everything. Then I'm checking it some more. Mac I'm moving the battery to back behind the cab on the inside of the frame. I like the look of a firewall with as little clutter as possible. This will also give me more in the cab for a heater core and possibly an a/c evaporator. I've been looking at a few chops on this style cab and I think three and a half will be enough and still be able to see out the windshield. When I chop it I'm going to leave enough material below the rear window so if I have to raise the bottom of it I can if I don't feel the proportions are right. I hope this makes sense.[S[[

 

[Torchie]

3-1/2 sounds good. You can always take more off if you need to.
I did 4 on my F series cab and could have gotten away with 3-1/2.
How are you planning your cuts?
Don’t cut the roof into quarters.
Torchie

 

[MercuryMac]

I agree, Kenny, the firewall looks nice stock and uncluttered.
On your back window placement, make sure it's at the right height so you can see out of it for the righthand lane change.
Torchie, could you elaborate on your quartering rule. Is it just to save a lot of welding or is there other things to worry about also?

 

[kenny c]

Torchie. This cab is straight enough vertically on the sides that I won't 1/4 it. With this little amount of chop I'm hoping to get away without relief cuts in the corners. Mac. I'm trying to leave the rear window at full height. I don't care for the mail slot rear window look. I don't want the bottom of the rear window to be too low in respect to the door windows. We will see after I cut it. As far as lane changes I agree. The view will be restrictive enough being a small window in width. I also plan on running mirrors on both sides. Out of habit and being a truck driver I can't be with out a right side mirror. It may be a while before the actual chop. I want to get as many dents out of the roof as possible. At 84 years old it has seen some abuse but for a work truck it's in good shape. Thanks for the support.

 

[DozerII]

Hey Kenny, I have only done one chop and that was on the 28 with straight pillars, won't you have to split the roof front to back to lengthen it?

 

[Old Iron]

[P[P[P

 

[Torchie]

I agree, Kenny, the firewall looks nice stock and uncluttered.
On your back window placement, make sure it's at the right height so you can see out of it for the righthand lane change.
Torchie, could you elaborate on your quartering rule. Is it just to save a lot of welding or is there other things to worry about also?

Mac....
The bigger the chop the lower the roof goes(Obviously.)
The lower the roof goes the greater the side angle as it goes towards the roof causing the tops of the doors to stick out. As well as needing more relief cuts in the top to make things fit. Some people cut the roof into quarters and put a cross filler strip in the roof to bring the roof all out back to the stock angle and fit the door tops.
I just leaned my door tops in. I did it on the truck and have done it on the Dodge . Much less welding and the glass still rolls up and down as it should.
When you quarter it you get a real floppy mess and if you are working by yourself it can get interesting. Plus if you are going to get warpage and oil canning from welding heat that roof is the most likely place.

Hey Kenny, I have only done one chop and that was on the 28 with straight pillars, won't you have to split the roof front to back to lengthen it?

Dozer.......
With a 3-1/2 inch chop the roof will need about a 2-3 inch??? filler piece going side to side to line up the A pillars.
Go back and take a look at the chop and section OI did on the Chevy AD truck cab.
He did what I call a "U" shaped cut in the roof. See the crude artist rendering.
This style of cut helps the roof hold it's shape better. I think.
Lots of different ways to do chops. It's mostly a matter of personal preference. Some prefer not to cut across the roof at all but to lean back the A pillars. It's all work not matter how you do it.[ [
Good plan getting the roof in shape before you cut , Kenny.[cl
[P [P [P
Torchie

 

[kenny c]

Mac....
The bigger the chop the lower the roof goes(Obviously.)
The lower the roof goes the greater the side angle as it goes towards the roof causing the tops of the doors to stick out. As well as needing more relief cuts in the top to make things fit. Some people cut the roof into quarters and put a cross filler strip in the roof to bring the roof all out back to the stock angle and fit the door tops.
I just leaned my door tops in. I did it on the truck and have done it on the Dodge . Much less welding and the glass still rolls up and down as it should.
When you quarter it you get a real floppy mess and if you are working by yourself it can get interesting. Plus if you are going to get warpage and oil canning from welding heat that roof is the most likely place.


Dozer.......
With a 3-1/2 inch chop the roof will need about a 2-3 inch??? filler piece going side to side to line up the A pillars.
Go back and take a look at the chop and section OI did on the Chevy AD truck cab.
He did what I call a "U" shaped cut in the roof. See the crude artist rendering.
This style of cut helps the roof hold it's shape better. I think.
Lots of different ways to do chops. It's mostly a matter of personal preference. Some prefer not to cut across the roof at all but to lean back the A pillars. It's all work not matter how you do it.[ [
Good plan getting the roof in shape before you cut , Kenny.[cl
[P [P [P
Torchie

very well stated. The door frames and A and B pillars are closer to vertical and thus being parallel. I will cut across the roof at it's highest point or the crown. I don't want to cut front to back because there is peak in the center running from tht windshield to about 1/2 way to the rear.

 

[MercuryMac]

Torchie, I'm not questioning your information, I'm trying to learn all of the tricks to chopping a top, in case I have to do it sometime. I don't actually like extra welding on large tin surfaces. Welded tin usually outsmarts me.
Kenny, from driving my '36 around I know about seeing or not seeing what's in your blind spots on both sides, even with mirrors. I just wanted to be sure you were aware of the pitfalls, but you already knew this stuff. Keep on tinkering.

 

[Torchie]

[P[P[P

Torchie, I'm not questioning your information, I'm trying to learn all of the tricks to chopping a top, in case I have to do it sometime. I don't actually like extra welding on large tin surfaces. Welded tin usually outsmarts me.
Kenny, from driving my '36 around I know about seeing or not seeing what's in your blind spots on both sides, even with mirrors. I just wanted to be sure you were aware of the pitfalls, but you already knew this stuff. Keep on tinkering.

No worries Mac. I never thought you were.
Like I said. Many ways to do a chop. I tend to go for the easiest, when possible.
Less is best when it's come to welding those big flat areas of metal.
I'm about half way ready to put a peak on my Dodge hood. It will be with round rod and I will be taking my sweet time with it.[ [ [

very well stated. The door frames and A and B pillars are closer to vertical and thus being parallel. I will cut across the roof at it's highest point or the crown. I don't want to cut front to back because there is peak in the center running from tht windshield to about 1/2 way to the rear.

Sounds like a plan.[cl
[P [P [P

 

[kenny c]

Tonight's installment of chopping the top. This is in not a tutorial and nothing is carved in stone. More measuring and thinking. The rear of the cab is getting cut below the window and above the belt line. I'll be taking out 3 1/2 inches. The cut will follow the belt line in an arch. This is to add a little strength and reduce warpage. It will also put the joint at a point where the upper and lower will meet with having to adjust either piece. The A pillar will have 3 7/8 taken out because of the slant in order to keep the roof level. The roof will be cut in a slight arch in order to follow the crown. It will be cut through the frame of the roof just ahead of the corner where it starts to flatten out. I will have to add 1 3/8 to the roof in order to line up the A pillar. This is all subject to change. If any one sees anything way out of whack with this plan please chime in. I think it should work.

 

[Torchie]

Torchie

 

[Old Iron]

If you'll cut a horizontal line at the sides of the roof, it'll give you a way to keep the top in line when moving it forward.
Go as far back on the roof with the cross cut as you can. jmho

 

[kenny c]

I'll look into it. I think that because the roof tapers a lot from where I have it marked it may create more of a problem trying to align it. Thanks for the input. All ideas are appreciated. and welcomed. None of us are as smart as all of us.

 

[Torchie]

That’s the U cut that I mentioned a few posts back.
Only other thing I would add is to mark the center of your roof from the Front of the peak all the way back to below the window.
I also weld a centering rod at the cowl to help line things up again. Weld it at the cowl and leave it free at the roof.
It helps when you are working by your self.
JMHO
Torchie

 

[kenny c]

Thanks Torchie.

 

[kenny c]

Not much to report. I did get the bracing for the headliner removed and the rear window out. It was the only window that wasn't broken but it is now. I also got most of the dents knocked out of the roof. It's not perfect but it is good enough to get the the chop done. I think the next step is to clean the garage. It's such a mess I can't find the floor. [

 

[Torchie]

[P [P [P [P[P
Torchie

 

[Old Iron]

[P[P[P

 

[I-R-POPS]

Get to choppin!! the anticipation is killing me. [P[P[P[cl[cl