1937 Ford Pickup

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thanks guys. I got a little more done today. I cut all the bracing out of the front 2/3 of the chassis, cleaned up the welds and set the cab in place. I have 1 3/4 inches of room between the back of the cab and uprights taking into account for the curve in the back of the cab. This should give me enough room front panel of the bed. I set up the front axel. The problem I'm having is that I'm not sure that I have my ride height where I want it. I pushed the axel up to where I will still be at 9 inches of ground clearance. I was shooting for 7 to 8 inches. The spring looks pretty flat. What do you guys think.[S[S
 

Attachments

  • DSC01383.JPG
    DSC01383.JPG
    139.9 KB
  • DSC01382.JPG
    DSC01382.JPG
    141.2 KB
  • DSC01380.JPG
    DSC01380.JPG
    141.1 KB
  • DSC01379.JPG
    DSC01379.JPG
    149 KB
Tomorrows plan is to set up temporary motor mounts and use it to weight it down and see where it sits. I will have to add extra weight to take into account for the radiator, fluids, sheet metal, steering, lights and what not. Maybe an additional 100 pounds, again any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks for checking in and the encouragement.
 
I hate rework

Todays adventure was to cut the frame rails in front of the cab and raise the front crossmember. I also cut the the rails just behind the front crossmember in order to bring the caster back to 7 degrees. This will give me about 6 inches of ground clearance. It works out that the front of the hood at the bottom edge should just clear the crossmember. This way should look better and no modifications to to the hood sides or grill. This ride height should make it look less like a 4x4.
 

Attachments

  • DSC01387.JPG
    DSC01387.JPG
    142.9 KB
  • DSC01386.JPG
    DSC01386.JPG
    139.1 KB
  • DSC01384.JPG
    DSC01384.JPG
    144.4 KB
  • DSC01385.JPG
    DSC01385.JPG
    139.1 KB
Kenny, when doing vertical welds , most common problem is "drowning " your wire in the puddle. Back off the wire feed and make sure you`ve got a decent V for good penetration. I hold my torch at about 45`and let the puddle pre heat the deep end of the V and then push it back up to fill. Hope that makes sense.
I would stongly advise to flip the frame to do the welds on the underside.

Thanks Dutch. I'll try that. If seems I'm welding too hot. less wire speed makes sense.
 
Not too much done tonight. Started making motor mounts. I think I may make them so that I can bolt them to the frame. This will make it so I can drop the motor and tranny out the bottom and not have to pull the cab off in the event that the motor has to come out. Just trying too think ahead and make life easier later.
 

Attachments

  • DSC01392.JPG
    DSC01392.JPG
    140.7 KB
  • DSC01391.JPG
    DSC01391.JPG
    146.3 KB
  • DSC01390.JPG
    DSC01390.JPG
    138.9 KB
  • DSC01389.JPG
    DSC01389.JPG
    144.7 KB
Not much to report today. Yesterday I made threaded bungs to put through the frame. I only broke one tap. I got them welded in for the motor mounts and put the motor back in place. Today I made a temporary mount to locate the rear of the trans. After finishing the welds for motor mounts and smoothing the welds I decided to move on to the rear end. spent a lot of time welding up rust pits and grinding gouges on the nine inch housing. It's amazing how long some stuff takes to get done but doesn't look like much. I forgot to take pictures so you will have to take my word for it for now. Maybe tomorrow I can get the four link brackets on the rear end.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top