1937 Packard 115 coupe

[zzrodder]

Then it could look like a 40 Willys.

Hummmn, you may be right!

Willys is a great example, love the whole body shape, maybe the best looking roof. They are small though compared to the Packard or a 37 Ford or Chev. I didn't want to clone another make or body style, just trying to plow my own row....
Got the drivers side tacked in, couple more days of tackin' and smackin' to go yet...

 

[Old Iron]

Lot of work there [cl
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[Sunnybeach]

looks good, thanks for the update.

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[Skip]

Willys is a great example, love the whole body shape, maybe the best looking roof. They are small though compared to the Packard or a 37 Ford or Chev. I didn't want to clone another make or body style, just trying to plow my own row....
Got the drivers side tacked in, couple more days of tackin' and smackin' to go yet...

All the cars that you mention are on my favorites list. All are great looking. Your Packard is a beauty as designed, and your magic is only making it better. Plow on. [cl

 

[05snopro440]

Looking great, ZZ!

 

[DozerII]

You sure do make it look easy ZZ, which I know it isn't.

 

[zzrodder]

Almost done welding and hammer work on the roof skin,
chasing out those nasty little pinholes, sometimes I just zap 'em from the underside. Next is welding the upper door frames back in and making a piece for each side to replace the wood originally above the door.

 

[Old Iron]

[P[P[P

 

[05snopro440]

I'm curious, what kind of welder do you use?

 

[zzrodder]

I'm curious, what kind of welder do you use?

It's a Miller 252, so easy to use - look at the chart for metal gauge and wire size, turn the dials and weld. Makes a dummy capable of decent welding....

 

[05snopro440]

It's a Miller 252, so easy to use - look at the chart for metal gauge and wire size, turn the dials and weld. Makes a dummy capable of decent welding....

Awesome! Thats precisely why I was thinking of getting a Miller Multimatic 215 but I think I'll stick with my little mig for a bit before I move up.

 

[CORPO]

everything lined up real nice! looking awesome..!

 

[TruckRat]

Great job! Can’t wait to see more.

 

[zzrodder]

Put in a couple hours today on piecing the door frames back together, also adding a piece of square tubing above the door to replace the original wood header.

This trim piece was originally screwed to the wood header, needs a bit of a trim at the rear then will get welded in. The roof skin was nailed to the wood header too, once its all welded together, it'll be stronger than stock.

 

[Torchie]

[cl
[P [P [P
Torchie

 

[Old Iron]

[[[

 

[bkvail]

This build is starting to give me flashbacks on our Diamond T cab build. Those door strikers look IDENTICAL to the Diamond T. Makes me wonder if the guides on the doors are the same too. Originally, the DT ones had little spring-loaded pieces on the striker, where those tabs are that stick up/down. I plan to replace them with poly rub shoe pieces (I found black that was made to be a rub shoe for a log truck bunk). Just haven't gotten around to that yet! The adding steel where there used to be wood - been there, done that! Looking good! Love to see this build evolve! [cl

 

[zzrodder]

This build is starting to give me flashbacks on our Diamond T cab build. Those door strikers look IDENTICAL to the Diamond T. Makes me wonder if the guides on the doors are the same too. Originally, the DT ones had little spring-loaded pieces on the striker, where those tabs are that stick up/down. I plan to replace them with poly rub shoe pieces (I found black that was made to be a rub shoe for a log truck bunk). Just haven't gotten around to that yet! The adding steel where there used to be wood - been there, done that! Looking good! Love to see this build evolve! [cl

I think some common suppliers served some of the lower production car manufacturers in that era so it's not surprising to see crossovers.

 

[zzrodder]

Cut off the top of the door and test fit - trouble in paradise....

Too low at the back - with no adjustment in the lower hinge, bending it will raise the rear of the door but will make too large a gap at the lower front edge. Even though I'd braced the body before taking out the floor, something must have moved. [S Solution will be to cut the cowl loose from the floor framing and pull it back a bit, bringing the rear of the door up while maintaining proper gaps (I hope)

 

[Torchie]

Even with bracing these things can get pretty floppy once you start cutting them apart.
[P [P [P
Torchie