1946 Chevy Bobber Truck Chop Build

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401ton

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 6, 2010
Messages
180
Location
Des Moines, IA
I got the urge like alot of others to purchase my own early truck cab after I started to see more and more Rat Rods out there that appealed to me. I finally found this 46' chevy cab this Summer with a title and figured I would use alot of what i had at home for the the rest. Here's what I started with. The cab isn't too bad and the doors had most of the hardware etc.

My plan was to use a extra AMC 401 engine and auto tranny I had laying arround. (plans change...)
I want it to be fairly low and haven't decided yet on the suicide or not front susp. I have learned alot from others build threads and will need some help as I go.
 

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I know you are toying with the idea of useing that independant front suspension sitting on your trailer , PLEASE don't ! That cab has so much potential to be a cool old rod , Find you a good straight axle and give it the look it deserves . You won't be sorry !!
 
I got a 1953 Chevy car frame and front suspension with it. The guy I got it from was just going to use it as is, but it would be too high and need to be cut up too much for my taste, so after talking with a few I'm going to go with 2 x 4 - 3/16" steel and make it from scratch. I advertised the frame lacally on craigs list, but no takers. Then checked the Speedway catalog and saw they made an straight front axle for these so I hope I can use the brakes and spindles and get some good out of it before it goes to the scrap yard.
 

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I know you are toying with the idea of useing that independant front suspension sitting on your trailer , PLEASE don't ! That cab has so much potential to be a cool old rod , Find you a good straight axle and give it the look it deserves . You won't be sorry !!

I don't have any plans of going independant front suspension at all and agree with your thoughts. I just was thinking I could mount a 5-6" dropped axle in front of the engine but behind the grill. Likely will need to Z the frame some while I'm at it. My thoughts were a new unpainted catalog tube axle with the drop when I get that far. Lots to do before then though...
 
I don't know how old you are or what shape your body is in or if you plan on driving your ride long distances . Have you ever riden in a rod with a straight front axle ? If not you might consider a ride in one before you make up your mind . If you are starting from scratch , a complete straight axle set up will not be much cheaper than a IFS kit . If mounted on the frame in the correct place -out front with the center of the axle in line with the radiator/grill - an IFS can look good and give a much better ride .
 
Here's a couple weeks ago after I spent days getting all the old clutch head screws off it where needed and also the doors etc. I saw this year truck in a mag with a 4" chop and liked the stance. I'm a fairly big guy and wanted to use the windshield crank out so trying to keep the windshield frame, so only went with a 3 1/2" chop. I taped off 4" at the "A" pillar with with my level turned out to be right on 3 1/2" in height. Taped off 3 1/2" at "B" pillar, but only about 3 1/4" all the way around to leave metal for an overlap.

Well...I was trying to load some more pictures, but got a error message now so will try again later.
 
I don't know how old you are or what shape your body is in or if you plan on driving your ride long distances . Have you ever riden in a rod with a straight front axle ? If not you might consider a ride in one before you make up your mind . If you are starting from scratch , a complete straight axle set up will not be much cheaper than a IFS kit . If mounted on the frame in the correct place -out front with the center of the axle in line with the radiator/grill - an IFS can look good and give a much better ride .

i drive my truck 40 mile round trip to work almost everyday. i've drove it to shows that were over 250 mile round trip. i have a straight axle. it rides and drives great guess it depends on how you set it up.
 
i drive my truck 40 mile round trip to work almost everyday. i've drove it to shows that were over 250 mile round trip. i have a straight axle. it rides and drives great guess it depends on how you set it up.

I have a I beam set up ,been driving it for 4 years have driven it over 399 miles round trip , If the ride from a straight axle could be made better by changing the set up IFS would never have been invented . When some one asks me "how does it ride " i say " like a 32 Ford " . I learned to drive on a 31 Ford , believe me the quality of the ride was not one of their strong points .
 
I've tried everything I can think of to improve the ride of a straight axle light weight hot rod. My conclusion is; they ride good on good roads and they ride rough on rough roads.:)
 
i didn't say it was better than ifs. i just said my truck rode and drove great. i just like the look of a straight axle on a rod with no fenders. if the straight axle is so bad how come after 4 years and a 399 mile round trip you haven't changed it to ifs. springs, shock, tires and wheel alignment has come a long way since 1932. you can make them ride and drive if you use newer technolgy.
 
I've tried everything I can think of to improve the ride of a straight axle light weight hot rod. My conclusion is; they ride good on good roads and they ride rough on rough roads.:)
have you tried lowering the air pressure in the tires.
 
i didn't say it was better than ifs. i just said my truck rode and drove great. i just like the look of a straight axle on a rod with no fenders. if the straight axle is so bad how come after 4 years and a 399 mile round trip you haven't changed it to ifs. springs, shock, tires and wheel alignment has come a long way since 1932. you can make them ride and drive if you use newer technolgy.

The main reason I haven't changed to IFS is the cost . I was just trying to alert the original poster that by placing an IFS in the right location it can look good. If I ever build another one it will have an IFS and it will look and ride good .
 
have you tried lowering the air pressure in the tires.

Yep, I've done that. I don't regard the ride of the straight axle rods as unacceptable, just harsher than IFS. Some of my cars have to be straight axles to look right in my opinion. I'm building my first fenderless IFS rod right now. Hoping it will look ok.
 
If your gonna look at it more than you drive it then go straight axle. If ya wanna drive it like ya stold it then go IFS.Both set ups have their own pros and cons as with oppinions. stick with whats in your budget also. both can be done cheap with some good deals.
 
I f s

If your gonna look at it more than you drive it then go straight axle. If ya wanna drive it like ya stold it then go IFS.Both set ups have their own pros and cons as with oppinions. stick with whats in your budget also. both can be done cheap with some good deals.

my thoughts exactly,im in the drivin camp
 
i say go IFS, simply because thats what im building, but my buddy and his dad swear by the solid front with the suicide stretch. i bought my 42 with the frame running a IFS, but thats what i was after because i like the look, open fender or not, work with what you got or can get easiest. good luck with the body style.
 
if you do think of going IFS, consider some of the import front clips, mazda, toyota, etc. i know the s10 etc, but the the other mini truck clips have a good room of movement, especially if you plan to drop it or airbags. just my thoughts
 
Thanks for all your comments on IFS vs. straight front axle.

I am going with a straight front axle on this project for looks. It's just the style I want. I believe you could probably build a decent riding straight front axle if you used different springs and such as even Grand Cherokees newer than 2000 used them would good results. I also realize the ride isn't going to be there with one leaf sitting crossways as opposed to a coil on each side that has more travel available.

Soooo, it's looks first than ride and everything else second.
 

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