36 Ford truck on Ranger

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On the '53's the spring steel clip hugs the top of the shaft and sticks up into the rotor. On the '51 there's a hacksaw cut, slanty in the shaft and a piece of bent spring steel is pressed in the crack. I couldn't get one at Napa. I took a section out of another set of points 'spring' and filed it down slightly narrower so it would fit into the rotor better. No pictures tonight.
 
Working with an itty-bitty piece of spring steel is frustrating. The first one needed just a wee bit more adjustment so I took it out and filed it a little. And lost it under the bench. The second one was bent and ground and at the last second the grinder flung it over toward the east wall into the blocking pile. here's a picture of the third one and the distributer rebuilt. The other picture is the difference in the shafts and bushing areas. The last picture is the first spring that was almost right. I can't get good focus up close.
 

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The redone distributer is in the truck and timed. The truck started right up, so I set it at 12* advance. It sounded to be a little more advanced than when I just time it by ear, but with the three deuces, the vacuum advance might peter out a wee bit.
 

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The first one needed just a wee bit more adjustment so I took it out and filed it a little. And lost it under the bench. The second one was bent and ground and at the last second the grinder flung it over toward the east wall into the blocking pile.


are you me? haha seriously my favorite saying is "if there is a problem, I can have it". [cl[cl[cl


way to keep at it!
 
are you me? haha seriously my favorite saying is "if there is a problem, I can have it". [cl[cl[cl


way to keep at it!

I'm more of the Kind of guy that buys 3 of everything(Nuts and bolts and screws). One that I use and two that I drop and can't find.:eek: [ddd
You need to post a video of that flathead running, Mac.:cool: :cool: :cool:
[P [P [P
Torchie
 
There probably won't be a video of the running 'cammed' flathead, not because I'm a selfish guy, but because I'm a dinosaur computer operator. Mrs. Mac is better at it than I am, but still can't transmit a decent length video.
Anyhow, as promised I have tested my transmission jack and it passed the first half. I've got the transmission out. Now, to see what is wrong with my clutch, and then have the jack put the transmission back in.
 

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The clutch on this motor 'kinda' jingles when engaged and it only quiets down when I ride the clutch pedal. When the pressure plate is squashing the friction disc the three fingers are all loose so they dance, jingling.

The three fingers have little bolts in the ends of them to adjust the contact to the throw-out bearing. One of the little bolts is painted white, now. When I was measuring the distances from the contact point of the bolts to the back side of the bellhousing, I suspected the one to be higher than the others so I painted it white, then took the bellhousing off and found that the little bolt that usually is stuck solid had unravelled until it was almost falling out. This caused the pressure plate to lift improperly and engage 'one side first', so I think this is why my clutch chattered when I was trying to sneak away from anywhere. I ordered a new clutch today.
 

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Just a new pressure plate, Doc, as the friction disc is almost new and unique. It is a T-5 Chev disc. I haven't tested the disc to see if it is uneven, yet. The flywheel was turned on a lathe and trimmed just before I mounted it last winter.
 
Doc, I secretly was worried about the smoothness of the friction disc, too. Even though I argued with you and said I don't need a new disc, this one's almost new, I took it out and set it up in my big drill and spun it. I held some tire chalk up really close to the spinning disc and got some high marks. Not really the final answer in a hillbilly lathe, but when I held the chalk up against the other side, the high marks were partly corresponding to the first side ones. Whooa, fat spot!
Tomorrow, I get to take it to a friends place an put it on his lathe.
When I asked him if he would trim my friction disc down on the lathe, he laughed. I even told him he could brag that he was the first one in his area to lathe a clutch disc. He kept laughing. I took that to mean he would like a higher bribe.
 
Pics or it never happened [ddd
Let me know how fast he ran the rpm's
I turned a couple brake rotors on my lathe with not so good of a result :eek::p
 
Here's a picture of my chalky clutch disc.
Doc. I took my disc to my friend, Buckshot, and he put it on the lathe. He explained to me about the springy strip between the two fibre discs and that would probably account for the few thousands of rises and valleys.
OI, he put it into the lathe, set up the dial indicator and turned it by hand. He wouldn't lathe it because the fibre just shreds and the springy middle strip would distort the final thicknesses.
 

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Buckshot is a welder, a machinist, a racer, and a builder of things. I think his opinions are golden. The racing guys don't have that little springy strip in between the fibre plates. Those are the clutches he is more familiar with. He said the friction disc should be alright in a streetrod.
So, I'm going to run it.
Here it is squashed in by the new, fairly expensive pressure plate.
 

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Pics or it never happened [ddd
Let me know how fast he ran the rpm's
I turned a couple brake rotors on my lathe with not so good of a result :eek::p

Brake lathes run at relatively low RPM, 100 or 200, and use a very sharp cutting insert. Usually you do pretty shallow cuts as well and then clean it up with emery when you're done.
 

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