I'm Gonna Build A Dragster!

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It was a warm and breezy day at the track. I elected to run 1/8 mile cuz there were very few cars doing it. Short staging lane mean't not much time all suited up waiting my turn.
Now for the excuses. Untried junkyard torqueflyte with stock unknown converter. First time with 3 Holley 1 barrel carbs.
First run I took it easy, seeing if it would shift, go straight, not bobble, etc. Made an adequate run. On the return road I shut it off so I could get out of the hot fire suit. It wouldn't start. Middle carb was overflowing. Towed it back to the pits and dug into the carb. Hoping it would fix itself just by taking it apart and putting it back together. No more internal leak but the brass inlet fitting would not seal in the carb body. Not good to have gas dripping on the header pipes. So we blocked the middle carb off. It ran but was ragged at idle.
I made a run and it came off the line pretty good but then kinda laid down. Not bad but I could tell it was far from its potential. Ran an 8.98 @ 76 1/8 mile. Not a blistering performance but a fun ride nevertheless. That equated to a 14.06 quarter. Then the front carb began leaking. I had rebuilt the carbs but they are old worn out swap meet cores.
It's obvious this combination cannot be tuned to reach the high 11's.
More drastic measures will have to be taken...
 
now tell us how big the grin was as you were running down the 1/8 mile. Something like this :D? or BIGGER?
 
bummer, not what we were hoping for. trying to race in these hot and humid conditions sucks the big one.

I can't remember if you have a fuel pressure regulator installed or not?

I think those small Holley 1bbls will only tolerate about 4psi max. should set the regulator to 3.25 - 3.5 psi at idle to allow for a little "creep".

they are also very touchy on float height, if they are a little too high on an unsprung car it may be causing them to get "jacked up" and over fill the float bowl.

we use to run a hose on the vent tubes of Holley 4bbls inside the air filter to raise the "tube " venting point higher and discourage over flow.

keep after it, sooner or later, all the little bugs will get worked out and then the fun starts.

or this might be a good time to find 3 of them ford/autolite 2100 2 bbls with the .98 venturies.
 

Not in the works, Sarge, but in the house. Got a few speed goodies for it too. All free from a good friend (he lurks here). I need to get a core C4 for building purposes.
Being old, the wife and I have a few medical prescriptions. One of the drugs just went from $33 a month to $330 a month. That is really going to cut in to the hobby budget.
 
Speaking of C4's, ford built some 2.3L pinto's and MII's with C4's that had a small converter in them. Ford referred to it as a 10.5" diameter. being ford and trying to be different they were measuring the outside of the torus, where every one else called theirs a 10", as measured inside the torus.

any how the bottom line is those converters from the 4cyl's will stall to at least 3000 rpm and maybe 3200 rpm behind any thing bigger.

it sounds like with the right mixing and matching, a person can have a cheap 300 6cyl. / c-4 set-up.
 
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In the middle of this pile of tin is a Hupmobile cowl. I also have a nice Hup radiator shell. I've wanted to replsce my fiberglass roadster with real steel for a while. Finally talked myself into using the slant in this project.
 

Today I ordered a JW Performance Ultra Bell bellhousing to connect a 300 Ford 6 to a Powerglide. So I am committed to changing the dragster from the slant 6 to a 300 Ford 6.

I would like to sell this 10 second Crosley If interested, send me a PM.
 

For only $375 I got this NHRA legal bell housing that will mate my 300 inch Ford six to a racing Powerglide I've had laying around for a few years. So the conversion from Mopar Slant 6 to 300 Ford six has begun. First step is to saw the stock bell housing off the Powerglide and bolt the new housing on using the bolt pattern for the front pump cover. A pretty cool conversion. And, if the flex plate or converter blow I'll be protected.
 

I'm committed now. Cut the stock bell housing off the Powerglide with a Sawzall. That is the rough cut. Need to finish it off with a die grinder and an angle grinder. The Ultra Bell bolts on to the front pump bolt circle so the cutting of the Powerglide housing does not have to be precision.
I pulled the engine apart. It is .040 over and there is rust in one cylinder. Hoping a .020 bore will do it as then I can use a 390 Ford forged piston. The crank is mint.
 
Very nice job on the PG...

have wondered how easy it is to do that swap...looks like you've got it down to a science......[P
 
Just following some very poorly written instructions. What you see is the rough cut. There's a lot of trimming ahead. I watched a video on You Tube and that helped.
 
Looks like a perfect union....lol

guess you just have to make sure it seats to the front pump .....should work out pretty well....
 

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