MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
And a dang fine picture it is. You passed the test.
My 40 Dodge Truck Build - Maybe a 41 LOL
- Thread starter Couper
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rods Rule:
Thanks Mac
Finally got the oil to prime up to the rockers.....could not figure the 120 degrees after TDC on #1. I spun the drill while very slowly turning the crank. The oil finally came up. Did both sides in that manner.
Question..... turning crank clockwise, the numbers on the damper as it comes around clock wise go down...40, 30, 20, 10 ?? Is something backwards about this?
I woulda thought after TDC the numbers would go up?? I'm very confused.
Question..... turning crank clockwise, the numbers on the damper as it comes around clock wise go down...40, 30, 20, 10 ?? Is something backwards about this?
I woulda thought after TDC the numbers would go up?? I'm very confused.
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
The gold coloured tin thing that is turning with the vibration dampener could be a speedy sleeve. If there was a groove worn in the vibration dampener neck from the last seal, then you could press on a thin speedy sleeve and it's new smooth surface runs against the new seal and keeps the oil in.
Hmmmm... looking into that. Thanks
Old Iron
Well-known member
The timing marks are supposed to go in that order.
The first number to show up is 50 btdc {before top dead center} then they go down from there. The reason is the piston is still coming up in the cylinder as the crank turns.
The first number to show up is 50 btdc {before top dead center} then they go down from there. The reason is the piston is still coming up in the cylinder as the crank turns.
Thanks OI... Seems I have a real mental block with this. What has me screwed up was I was told at 120 degrees after TDC on #1 the oil holes would line up to prime the drivers side bank. So I'm thinking TDC then use the degree tape to add the 120. Couldn't get them to squirt. I then cranked the drill and turned the crank very slowly until I got oil at the position shown at the picture. I was taping from TDC counter clock wise and I guess I shoulda been taping clockwise. Very confusing....whatda dummy.
Attachments
So Eric at Hot Heads tells me this is a dust cover....ok to spin and won't hurt anything. He said I could remove it if I wanted to.
Here is something interesting which I'm sure you guys already know. I ordered header studs today.... Asked for header bolts and Eric asked if I wanted bolts or studs.... Of course I asked what the difference was....not the difference between a bolt and stud but why would I want one over the other. He told me that if I used bolts and removed them, I'd have anti freeze coming out. If I used studs, the studs would stay in place and I wouldn't have that issue. The studs have to be sealed in with a loctite thread sealer. Interesting, but why would they drill right into the water jacket? I took a bolt out at the front of the engine and found some white sealant on it....near the timing cover, bolt for the alt bracket, must be the same deal.
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
I found out that Dodge motors have bolt holes that go right into the water jacket.
Yeppers.... seems a bit silly to me.
Old Iron
Well-known member
Holes into the water jacket is just the way that Chrysler did them.
GM engines have some bolts that do the same thing. For instance, if ya don't use sealer on the intake bolts, not the 4 corner ones, the oil will seep around them and puddle on top of the intake.
GM engines have some bolts that do the same thing. For instance, if ya don't use sealer on the intake bolts, not the 4 corner ones, the oil will seep around them and puddle on top of the intake.
Interesting.... always learning new stuff!
gene49
Well-known member
Dodge (all Mopar) motors have bolt threads into the water jacket.
Exhaust manifold bolts.
Water pump bolts.
Timing chain cover bolts.
Thermostat housing bolts.
Probably some not right off the top of my head.
Then there is the list of threaded bolt holes in areas that cause an oil leak.
Intake manifold bolts.
Fuel pump bolts.
Rear end covers bolts.
I'm sure I'm missing some from this list as well.
When in doubt, put thread sealant on the bolt threads before you insert them.
Exhaust manifold bolts.
Water pump bolts.
Timing chain cover bolts.
Thermostat housing bolts.
Probably some not right off the top of my head.
Then there is the list of threaded bolt holes in areas that cause an oil leak.
Intake manifold bolts.
Fuel pump bolts.
Rear end covers bolts.
I'm sure I'm missing some from this list as well.
When in doubt, put thread sealant on the bolt threads before you insert them.
Thanks Gene.... I'm gona see if there is a complete list. Any idea if the Trans mounting bolts are affected? I've already installed my trans adapter bolting using loctite.Dodge (all Mopar) motors have bolt threads into the water jacket.
Exhaust manifold bolts.
Water pump bolts.
Timing chain cover bolts.
Thermostat housing bolts.
Probably some not right off the top of my head.
Then there is the list of threaded bolt holes in areas that cause an oil leak.
Intake manifold bolts.
Fuel pump bolts.
Rear end covers bolts.
I'm sure I'm missing some from this list as well.
When in doubt, put thread sealant on the bolt threads before you insert them.
Does the priming operation to get oil up to the rockers need to be performed right before the initial start-up / breaking. I did it but won't get to the start for another couple weeks.
So with my oil pump tang pointing towards the #1 cylinder intermediate gear and shaft (dist shaft slot 90 degrees from oil pump tang), dist dropped in, rotor can point centered to the passenger side or I can flip it facing the driver side. Is there a preference on this?
Dist wires 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 with the rotor moving clockwise? I see conflicting CW CC info but I think the CC is for the new gen Hemi's?s
You guys should have a jar that I have to drop a couple bucks into for each answer. LOL
Dist wires 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 with the rotor moving clockwise? I see conflicting CW CC info but I think the CC is for the new gen Hemi's?s
You guys should have a jar that I have to drop a couple bucks into for each answer. LOL
gene49
Well-known member
The trans mounting bolts at the bell should not go into the water jacket, There was usually extra material at the bell mounting location, but I'm not real informed about the early Hemi.
I do have a 54 Dodge truck factory service manual here, according to it "the distributor shaft rotation is clockwise when looking down upon the distributor from above." There is no reference as to where the rotor points when #1 is on compression, but #1 may be identified on the distributor cap, so lining the rotor with a cap marked #1 for the ignition wire might be a good idea.
