My 40 Dodge Truck Build - Maybe a 41 LOL

[Couper]

More overthinking here....LOL
Tested positive for COVID last night so the fog brain is worse than normal.

The first concerning issue was that the power lug was only about 1/2" from the oil pan, the second the belt wrap.

So many obstacles....lining up the pulleys, lower rad hose, the power lug, my motor mount.....blah blah blah.

So I re-designed the alternator bracket....not a big change in the bracket but much better position for the alternator. Got the lug away from the pan and gave me a little better belt wrap.

I would have liked to go higher but my motor mount is in the way....

The picture with the MDF is the new mock-up bracket.

 

[gene49]

I like that better. Nearly a 1/4 diameter drive pully belt contact is much better.

 

[Couper]

I like that better. Nearly a 1/4 diameter drive pully belt contact is much better.

Thanks Gene...that's as good as it's going to get unless I swap the pulleys out for serpentine style. I can always do that down the road if needed. I'm banking on the fact that there's a few guys running the stock HH bracket with no issues and this is a little better.

 

[Couper]

While waiting for the alternator bracket....I moved around the backside and torqued the trans adapter, flex plate, and test fit the torque converter

 

[bob w]

Looks like all high quality parts.

 

[Couper]

Looks like all high quality parts.

Nutt'ins cheap these days....unless its free of course LOL Thanks!

Drink a lot of water pal.

 

[Couper]

Doing some odds and ends to get ready to start my motor for the first time.

Water Temp Gauge, Oil Pressure Gauge, Fuel Pressure Gauge..Break in Oil

I have the directions on crank position to get oil up to each side of the valve train while priming with the drill

Going to try to fill the block with Antifreeze before filling the radiator.

Someone on one of the HEMI FB Pages said that I should permanently connect the two rear water jacket plugs on the rear of the heads together. Is that necessary?

Would this first start up also be considered the break-in? I've seen some things on running at certian RPMs to break in the Cam? If so I'll have to get a tach

Any thoughts or direction appreciated.

Thanks

 

[gene49]

You pretty much have to break that cam in on the 1st motor run. Once it starts and has oil pressure, you do the cam break in, as the cam manufacturer directions tell you. A lot of cam break ins are 2,000 rpm for a 1/2 hour (or they were way back when I was doing that stuff). The only good reason to shut down the cam break in is if you loose oil pressure. Back in the day, I watched guys feed water through a garden hose into a motor leaking coolant until the cam break in process was done.

If you don't break the cam in on the 1st run, you are almost guaranteed the cam will have problems. The cam break in is more important then seating the rings.

With the number of failed camshafts and crap lifters these days, I sure would not short the cam break in as the first thing after the motor fires. you need to be able to monitor the oil pressure as the cam break in is going on.

 

[Old Iron]

Gene is right.
The other thing to do is vary the rpm every few minutes between 2000 and 2500. A tach is not necessarily needed, I just run rpm by ear.
These old Hemis are not as hard on lifters as the other engines are, due to the angle the lifters sit in the block.
Break-in oil is a good thing, I still add a bottle of zinc for added security.
At first start-up, if something dictates the engine be shut off, it's not a real problem. Either have the engine above 1500 or shut off, nothing in between.
In any case, do not let the engine idle until it's ran for 30 minutes.

 

[Couper]

Thanks Gene & OI....

Sounds nerve wracking! Arrgg.

I'll be a couple weeks....

 

[Old Iron]

Piece of cake

 

[Couper]

Some Roller Rocker Sexiness!

 

[zzrodder]

Oh yeah, engine porn![dr

 

[Couper]

LOL[cl[cl[cl

 

[Couper]

I'm about ready to have a stroke..... I'm messing with the intermediate shaft / oil pump clocking. Turning the crank by hand (long torque wrench) I am not showing any or much pressure in the #1 cly....12psi.

Maybe valves not closing all the way? Am I ruinning something by cranking this with no oil up? Should each cly get a squirt of oil from the oil can.

Gee Wiz

 

[soltz]

Isn’t this fun
If you lubed the crank bearings on assembly, no problem turning the crank [cl

 

[Couper]

Hey Soltz.... I didn't build this bugger and it's been sitting for at least 3 years.

Shouldn't I have a compression reading?

 

[DozerII]

Hey Soltz.... I didn't build this bugger and it's been sitting for at least 3 years.

Shouldn't I have a compression reading?

You had the valve cover off on the left bank, when #1 is on TDC is there any lash on the rocker arms?

 

[Couper]

Have to check that..... seems that the concensus from some of my motor friends say that cranking by hand won't show much of a reading. Some guys at another forum said no chance I did any damage. Which makes me feel better.... I'm not gona get excited about the compression right now and before I do any more turning, I am now trying to locate that 120 degrees past TDC on #1 to align the oil ports to prime up to the rockers. Not having much luck so far

 

[Couper]

Testing adding a picture....