The Roofus Special

[CORPO]

wow.. glad to hear you are all right man.. looks like a solid hit...

I know you are good with metal... Pretty sure you can rebuild it .... haha jk

 

[earthman]

Glad to hear you walked away from that.

 

[BigIrish]

That really blows, hopefully you won't be too sore for too long.

 

[Flipper_1938]

I settled with the insurance company and got a new daily driver, 2010 toyota Yaris (it was hard finding one with a mnual transmission). Hopefully this will be as good of a car as the previous one.

Also, I am going to attempt to work on Roofus this weekend. Not aiming to get a lot done...I'm still kinda sore.

 

[Flipper_1938]

On Thanksgiving I did verify that the u-bolts that I bought at the pumpkin run swap meet are exactly what I need to mount the spring. Now I need to finalize my design on how to mount the spring.

Anybody have thoughts on if the u-bolts should be straight up and down like this: I I
or perpendicular to the arched crossmember like this: \ / ?

Which ever way it is, I know I need to make sure the nuts tighten down on a matching surface. I will modify the crossmember as required.

 

[jfg455]

They just need to be 90 degrees from the mounting surface. If the part is curved then it is ok to have them in the \ / configuration as this is following the curve of the mounting surface. Make sense?[P

 

[Flipper_1938]

They just need to be 90 degrees from the mounting surface. If the part is curved then it is ok to have them in the \ / configuration as this is following the curve of the mounting surface. Make sense?[P

In your opinion, would they look better up and down or angled? I can fix the 90* for straight up and down by welding in a flat plate where it is needed.

 

[jfg455]

In my opinion they would look better angled so that they would follow the spring curve. If the mount is curved, and the spring is curved, with the U bolts straight up and down, then it would look weird.

 

[deerchooper]

ok, i have a question/ concern.

if you mount the bolts like this \ /. wouldnt you putting you perch a little farther off of center (per side) to hit the angle of the spring? then when you bolt it to that area then your going to change the actual spring rate some and or cause a weak spot on that side of the spring, or if its loaded heavy the spring would kinda look like a w (upside down).

or am i way off and dont know what the hell you guys are talking about?

 

[jfg455]

(

It wont make it bind or change the spring rate due to the fact that the spring will be held firm in the same spot side to side. The "flex" will be from the bolt outward. If Flipper is worried about a high stress point then he can just fab up a plate to run between the u bolt and the spring to spread the "load" so to speak. After looking at this pic I don't think there will be that much angle on the bolts. it will be subtle and most won't even notice. if you were to put them straight then the load of the spring would start to put side pressure or shear preasure on the U bolt. if the bolt isnt 90 degrees to the spring face then as tension is put on the bolt it will try and straighten itself. Make sense?[S

 

[deerchooper]

i forgot all about his cross member. i was thinking more along the top mount perch.

but he could change the spring rate the farther out he moves the bolts from center.

 

[Neverdone]

That is one of the coolest looking builds I have ever seen!!. I would love to have one of those cars. Maybe that is what I should do with the 250 straight six when I pull it out of my rat and swap it for the V8

 

[rainman]

Flipper do you think you will need a spring stack that big? I would do as stated before and have my bolts perpendicular to the spring. Although there will be stress on the bolts I don't think it will increase much if any.

 

[Flipper_1938]

Flipper do you think you will need a spring stack that big? I would do as stated before and have my bolts perpendicular to the spring. Although there will be stress on the bolts I don't think it will increase much if any.

I have no idea how much spring I will really need. I hope I can pull out about half of the leaves.

 

[Flipper_1938]

Pictures of u-bolt angles

and

The cadillac spare tire cover over the rear tire gives an idea what it would look like with tall wheels and tires. I kinda like the look of full cycle fenders too.

 

[rainman]

I like the aangles on the bolts. JMO

 

[CORPO]

angled ones look nice...

 

[jfg455]

+2 on the angled bolts

I think cycle fenders would look right with the style of the wire wheels. I will try and find a pic of an MG K2 K3 or K magnet. they had almost the same shape as what you are building. Tall skinny wires with cycle fenders. [P

 

[jfg455]

Here is a K2 and the one on the right is a K magnet. You can kinda get the gist of the fenders. these were cool cars. Here are some specs.


Brief technical specifications…
Engine: 6 cylinders in line.
Bore/Stroke: 57mm x 71 mm
Capacity: 1087cc
Valve operation: Overhead camshaft.
Compression ratio: 5.4:1 to 6.6:1 according to tune.
Carburation: Single SU carburettor with Powerplus or Marshall Supercharger
Power output: 105 to 125bhp according to state of tune.
Transmission: Wilson pre-selector four speed gearbox without clutch.
Brakes: 13" drum, cable operated, (twin lever 1934)
Suspension: Half elliptic front and rear with sliding trunnions. Beam axle front, live rear axle.
Chassis: Twin side members with cross members.
Wheelbase: 7' 10 3/16"
Track: 4' 0" front and rear.
Wheels: Centre lock wire spoke.
Weight: 181/4 cwts.
Performance: Max speed: 110 mph.
Acceleration: 0-75 mph in 14.6 secs.
Fuel consumption: approx. 15 mpg.
Number built including prototypes and EX135: 33

 

[jfg455]

better shot of the rear of a K3