Bits and pieces, Leslie's car.

[Torchie]

Nice call on the latches.[cl
[P [P [P
Torchie

 

[endicott_jb]

Repaired the rear where the trunk lid meets the rear of the cab. Then went onto modifying the 65ish VW bug fuel tank. Mocked everything up to check fit and then moved onto finishing up the hitch receiver. If anyone has been paying close attention to my other builds, they all get a hitch. Tomorrow before it gets too hot I’ll build the rear panel where I will mount the tail lights.

 

[soltz]

Good Thing

looks good. Those tanks have many uses and most are dirt cheep[cl

 

[Torchie]

[cl [cl
Never thought about using a VW bug tank. I'll have to file that one for future reference.
[P [P [P
Torchie

 

[endicott_jb]

looks good. Those tanks have many uses and most are dirt cheep[cl

This one I pulled out of a farmers field. I was going to take it to the local radiator shop and have them clean it up but after talking to the owner, he said just clean it out with muriatic acid. Seemed to have worked really well.

 

[endicott_jb]

[cl [cl
Never thought about using a VW bug tank. I'll have to file that one for future reference.
[P [P [P
Torchie

It worked out really well. Only has a capacity of about 10 gallons or so but I may add more capacity to the bottom still. I was really surprised how easy it was to weld on.

 

[Skip]

It worked out really well. Only has a capacity of about 10 gallons or so but I may add more capacity to the bottom still. I was really surprised how easy it was to weld on.

Good heavy gauge steel, and NOT galvanized.

 

[endicott_jb]

Finally started work on the trunk this morning after work. The upper most piece I will have to scrap as I forgot to account for the trunk being wider at the front and narrower at the rear. The rest of it will work but in order for the sides to fit proper I need it to go wide at the top to make up for the difference. I still need to roll beads in the upper floor but I’ll do that tomorrow. Once I have the beads rolled I can start tacking all the pieces together and then work on the sides.

 

[skull]

lookin' really nice[cl

Later

 

[05snopro440]

Finally started work on the trunk this morning after work. The upper most piece I will have to scrap as I forgot to account for the trunk being wider at the front and narrower at the rear. The rest of it will work but in order for the sides to fit proper I need it to go wide at the top to make up for the difference. I still need to roll beads in the upper floor but I’ll do that tomorrow. Once I have the beads rolled I can start tacking all the pieces together and then work on the sides.

Looking good! Are you going to make any of the pieces removable for easy access to the upper coilover bolts?

 

[soltz]

Looking Good!

[cl
[P

 

[endicott_jb]

Looking good! Are you going to make any of the pieces removable for easy access to the upper coilover bolts?

The entire trunk will be removable to allow access to the fuel tank and suspension components. The first thing I did this morning was remove the pieces that the trunk seal sits in and put threaded inserts in where the original screws went. I figured this was going to be the easiest way to make the trunk removable.

 

[endicott_jb]

More trunk work done today. Decided that instead of welding it together, even though it would be more sealed up, I would rivet it together just for ease of disassembly if it ever came to that. Plus, a million rivets look kinda cool. Tomorrow I’ll finish off the bottom of it by riveting some pieces of angle that I bent on the brake at work and that is what will attach to sides to the bottom. Once I have those in place I can start on the sides and the rear most piece. I’m now thinking that instead of leaving the lower portion open where the battery is going to go, I will make a lid for it and that should help seal off the trunk from anything I may have overlooked.

 

[Bamamav]

You could use DZUS fasteners and then it would be quick and easy to remove when needed.

 

[05snopro440]

You could use DZUS fasteners and then it would be quick and easy to remove when needed.

Good idea, but myself I'd go a little simpler on that application. Dzus can be finicky to install and get aligned, personally I'd just go with machine screws. Easy to rework or replace if you have any issues

Just my thoughts. [S

 

[Torchie]

Looks Great.[cl
[P [P
Torchie

 

[soltz]

Looking really good. [cl
I don't about your place but when I bought some Dzus for the sprint they were like 12 a piece
Machine screw are much better [S
Good luck with it and can't wait to see it on the road. [P

 

[05snopro440]

Looking really good. [cl
I don't about your place but when I bought some Dzus for the sprint they were like 12 a piece
Machine screw are much better [S
Good luck with it and can't wait to see it on the road. [P

Yeah, they're expensive. Great on race cars or aircraft, not so necessary on something that doesn't need to be removed every time you use a vehicle.

 

[endicott_jb]

I know having one or two panels removable would be the simplest but because I want it fairly water tight, it was either weld everything together or use rivets. I think the rivets give it that little extra pop and removing them isn’t that bad. Just have to drill them out. Dzus fasteners would work for this application but one, I can’t get them locally, and two, they are a lot more expensive than rivets. I can buy a whole mess of rivets for the price of one dzus fastener. When I get everything finished up, I plan on using silicone around the edges just to give it that little bit extra waterproofing.

Anyhow, got one of the sides finished up today but that was all. Tomorrow I’ll focus on the other side and then work on the attachment points. Shouldn’t be too difficult as I have the pieces I removed to use as templates. Once that’s all in place, it’ll be time to move to the rear most panel and then the lid.

 

[28sawrig]

Good job, nice looking work you did and that's from a 30 year sheet metal worker. Keep up the good work.