I'm Gonna Build A Dragster!

[bob w]

Still Puttin' It Together

It's getting closer. Spent the day wiring. All new as the original wiring was pieced together. My friend, and driver of the Crosley, Dave came over Saturday and helped out. That was appreciated. I promised him some passes in the dragster. Putting a mini alternator on it so the bracket has to be altered. Should be running it a week.
Don't know when I'll build the two carb manifold. Planning to build it from scratch.
Pretty sure I'll put it up for sale at the Meltdown drags in July. I've got to sell some cars.
Still lots of aches and pains so I'm thinking if I race anymore I'll need a car that's easy to get in and out of.

 

[smallfoot]

Starting to look fun again...[cl

 

[joedoh]

I swear you build the craziest stuff! [cl[cl

 

[forbigpicture]

Wiring is my least favorite thing on a build Looking good bobw !!!!
oh yeah, hard to beat a lawnboy....

 

[old28]

Ya my man the dragster is looking great. Maybe some sound in a few weeks.

Just an idea on the new intake as a starting point. The lower EFI manifold tube makes a great base with the manifold to head mounts already in place. they will bolt on to any 240 / reg 300 / EFI head. I think they were on 1985 - 1995 300 motors. Should be able to pick one up at your local wrecking yard for a song. This is a picture of the one that came with my 1992 EFI block &
head. [

True on a continue racing ride, those old 40's style door cars are looking more interesting. Hang in there buddy & keep your eyes open for a 300/240 head.

 

[old28]

Just another picture showing base plate mounted to build carb plenum from. Might get a few ideas.

 

[bob w]

Tom, thanks for the pics. Using it would be a real time saver. I didn't know they existed. I'll keep looing for a head for you.

Got a few more parts to paint and put on the dragster. Then top it off with fluids and see if she runs. I might have to put longer wheel studs in the axles as I don't have quite the 1/2" protrusion from the wheel face that NHRA requires.

 

[old28]

Ya bob using the Ford 1985-95 EFI lower intake tubes will save a lot of fabrication and will bolt into your existing head with your current headers, not a problem. Like I said you should be able to find it at your local wrecking for cheap! If you can't find one I will ship you the one I have as I do not plan on building a 2x2 manifold for the street motor I am working on. [cl

For sure I would change the studs so you have 3/4 to 1" sticking out. From past experience with NHRA Tech the rule book may say 1/2" but they like 3/4 - 1" even better. Keeps you on their good side. Get them from your axel supplier as they will have the quality studs in the lengths for their axel. This a good safety investment. Stay Safe and use that lock Tite on that flex plate and convertor bolts.


Keep the pictures coming. [P

 

[bob w]

The car was 95% back together. Went to bolt the converter to the flexplate and they were bound up. Had to take it apart. 90 degrees and 90% humidity and the garage floor was sweating. After some careful measuring of the old converter and the new converter I figured out the converter guy made a converter for a car with a mid plate. It is bigger front to back to allow for the thickness of a mid plate, which I don't have. So, it's either send it back to Texas again or have one of my friends with a machine shop cut about 1/8" off the mounting lugs and the snout.

 

[old28]

Bob, I had the same problem with one of my convertor for the BBC dragster.
I had purchased it used and had to make it work. I used spacers to get it to bolt up like it should, measured spacers and had my machine shop cut the mounts and snout just like you said. Never had a problem with it and that was a 1200 HP blowen alcohol motor. If you send it back it will be months before you get it back.


Don't know if you have ever seen picture of our NE-1 dragster. This shot was of Dixie on the top end at Bakersfield after another 7.50 ET / 185 mph pass. This is the car the modified convertor was in.

 

[bob w]

Tom, Good to know that modifying the converter should be okay.

Wow! That's a beautiful FED you and Dixie had. I can't imagine going that fast. I'm in awe of Dixie driving that dragster.

 

[Bamamav]

Bob, could you just make a block to trans spacer the thickness that a motor plate would be? Looks like that would be easier than trying to cut down the converter lugs.

 

[old28]

Thanks for the nice words on the dragster, it was the best ride I had in the 45+ years we drag raced. Dixie wheeled that car way better than me. Her reaction times were light years better than mine. She made the quickest pass with it in AZ with a 7.01 @ 199 mph.

Don't get me wrong, making a spacer the thickness of a mid plate would be great, but as there are no mid plates for a 300 motor out there, making a spacer will take a ton of work and it will be a mid plate without side mounts when done.

The machine shop can mill both the mounting lugs and snout. Make sure they seal up the inside of the snout so it stays clean. Your buddy that owns the Studebaker coupe & fab shop will know how to do what is needed.

Bob, I just have to ask to make sure, are you positive you had the front snout locked all the way into the pump housing on the trans? I am sure you did but don't want to miss anything.

 

[bob w]

Tom, the dragster it terrific. Wish I could have seen you run.

I measured from the flexplate mounting lug on the converter to the bellhousing mating surface on the original converter and the new converter. The new converter was 7/8" back and the original converter was 1 1/16" back. I also compared the overall thickness of the two converters and the new one is 3/16" thicker. That measurement is from the forward snout to the end of the sleeve that drives the pump. So I believe I had both converters seated in the pump.
When you use a mid plate do you have to do anything to the starter to make sure it engages? I can buy motor plates but they are only 1/16" thick. Would have to add two of them to get minimal clearance. I'll find out tomorrow what it will take to set the converter up in a mill and cut the mounting lugs and snout down.

Wow! I just had a thought. Maybe the rear (shiny) sleeve that drives the pump could be shortened and the notches cut deeper. That would move the whole converter back farther in the bellhousing. Any thoughts?

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

A mid plate shouldn't affect starter to ring gear. That dimension will remain fixed.

If I understand your explanation correctly, your thought is the most probable cure.

Your measurements from bellhousing face to mounting lugs are 3/16" different... add a 3/16" mid plate with the custom converter in place... the measurement would be equal to the stocker and mate identically to your flex plate.

Take the mid plate away and I believe your thought hits it on the head... your aftermarket converter is 3/16" too long on the pump end.

When I was active in the sport, 3/16'' was a common mid plate, front plate was 1/4", both made of aluminum. I believe your converter was built with a 3/16" mid plate in mind...

.

 

[old28]

Bob,

I agree it sounds like you had the converter all the way in and seated so we can take that out of the problem.

I am not sure about how a mid plate would affect your starter to ring gear on your 300 motor with the PG bell housing. If it was on a sbc / bbc the mid plate would have no affect.


I see no reason that you can not mill 3/16" off the end of the pump drive sleeve and mill the notch 3/16" deeper to match what you removed from the end. You might have had to do this any way after you cut the lugs 3/16" as the pump drive snout might end up being max out without the lugs matted to the flex plate. I think this is a do able modification that any good mill operator can handle and it is the easiest over all solution.


If you can not get a mid plate that is 3/16" thick and is drilled for your 300 block I myself would move on to plan B. I would not stack (3) 1/8" plates as this mounting is the main alinement tool for your trans with it's input shaft.


What do you think ?

Also I sent you an email on the EFI intake lower tubes today.

 

[bob w]

Well, I milled 3/16" off the pump drive sleeve and the cut the slots 3/16" deeper. I forgot that the input shaft would keep the converter from seating deeper in the bell housing. The result: one useless, ruined converter. I'll put the original converter back in tomorrow.

 

[Old Iron]

Useless maybe, not ruined. There's a tranny shop here that welds new ones on converters.
You may have one near you too.
Sounds like the engine plate would have been the right answer then.

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

Cut 3/16" off the input shaft? (I should shut up and run before I get shot!)
.

 

[bob w]

I'm done cutting things off, Dr. C. Probably gonna box the thing up and send it back to the guy who made it. I'll give him better instructions now that I'm smarter about converters, and see if he can build what I need. He's a good guy with a good reputation.