street legal jalopy/vintage fenderless oval race car 1940lSH MOPAR tribute to DAD

[skull]

more today

doin' more stuff and pics of it


l think the headlights should be fine there, low enough to shine out yet high enough not to catch on things and they clear the tires when turning lock to lock.

every old fart should have an aluminum jack, there so easy to move/pack around.

Later

 

[Dirtyrat]

Looks like you are making some good progress, now the other body is going on this chassis then?

 

[sgtpontiac]

Look like they will be fine....

nice jack......always wondered how they worked and if they were worth the money....guess you've answered that.....

 

[skull]

still

----------"Dirtyrat" now the other body is going on this chassis then?-----

l'm still going to use the 4 door 1948 dodge body l cut down.

the silver chassis is going to get a more modern body, like a 1960's or early 1970's. my friend wants to build it like a nascar clone or a 1980's full body pavement race car, kinda like the 1964 dodge of marty robbins, l told him go for it

Later

 

[Dirtyrat]

Gotcha, thats what I thought! Can't wait to see the body on that chassis!

 

[skull]

H B

nice jack......always wondered how they worked and if they were worth the money....guess you've answered that.....

yea, it's nice to have the lesser weight to save the old bones if ya don't beat on it they should last a long time.

one complaint, they ship them dry so you have to get the jack fluid and fill it yourself and no one at the store bothers to tell you that, luckily l had a gallon sittin' around so l didn't have to make a special trip to get the "juice" for it

that one is a Harbor Freight one l got on a good sale, l still have my heavy duty steel one for other things since the aluminum don't go as high as the steel one.

Later

 

[skull]

little things

mostly tinkering on little things today.

l re-arranged the headlights/fog lights because of the brackets l am using, just works better with the main light inside and the extra light outside the front bar.

the new brackets, that l been hoarding for 15 years, are a little bit longer than the other two l was going to use so they will work for the headlights but made it to close to the tires when turning. these two are stainless and l burned up a drill bit punching two holes, so l used the fire wrench to punch the other two holes, the base of the headlights cover the ugly holes.

l think it looks good this way

Later

 

[skull]

odds & ends

seat removed, front brake lines removed, gotta replace all the metal brake lines & put in new front rubber ones. the brake pads look good and the rotors are 0K.

the rear-end l am using, need to do a few things to it, but it's in good shape and has 3:O8 gears so that should help a little on mileage since this one has no overdrive.

not much, but some progress.

Later

 

[skull]

rear springs

l got the replacement stock rear leaf springs today. l noticed there's a lot of differences between the "new" ones & the ones l'm replacing. we should get'em put on in the next few days,,, l have'ta wait till the rain slows down.

it sucks having a shop and it so full of other projects and stuff ya have'ta work outside.

at least the small barn is empty so when she is done there will be nice dry place to keep it in when the weather is crappy. that's import around these parts when you have a open wheel rod & it's going to be leaky when it rains or snows,

Later

 

[skull]

more today

between rain storms l got the passenger side mocked up.

Later

 

[oldblueoval]

Just got caught up on this build. Love the old roundy-round look. Can't wait to see more[dr

 

[skull]

passenger

mocking up the passenger seat and rough planning out of the fire wall, floor pan and exhaust.

SUPER CRUDE DRAWING FOR EXHAUST lDEA; if l cut the muffler off at the header and run a 90 from the header flange with a 9O down by the frame so it makes a S pipe to run it down and exit in front of the rear wheels somewhere in there where it runs down the frame a muffler has to be attached per washington noise laws.

the firewall will be about 2 feet or so from the edge of the seat, kinda cramped but l figure for short runs the passenger can live with it. on the seat l will put the form-fitting cover and a piece of foam for there butt so it's a tad more comfortable to sit in.

l have a 5-point harness for me and the passenger so we don't bounce around and hit our selves on the cage.


Later

 

[skull]

suicide

the driver side door will have the stock style hinges and open normal with the stock door latch and only the inside door handle.

l am going to suicide the passenger door for ease of entry/exit.

picture of my passenger door latch and hinges

the latch will have a spring attached to keep pressure on it to make darn sure the door stays shut.

since l removed 90 percent of the passenger side inner doorskin the light weight hinges will work out great as the door now weighs about 10LBS.

one major thing is l gott'a smooth all the rough pieces left in the doors so no one hurts themselves. safety always

Later

 

[skull]

A arms

the A arms came today, right on time as promised

they'll work really well to replace the hacked up garbage that's on there now.

good quality for the price.

l will get them put on as soon as the rain stops.

Later

 

[sgtpontiac]

Skull are those circle track arms....just wonderin....

Guess the old ones had seen better days....Yeah, I think a good trimmin will be in order for the doors....could leave some nasty scars...lol By the way, was the doll sitting in the rod with the suicide doors a teaser to see who would notice???

 

[skull]

thinking

not sure... just replacement for stock ones the catalog says.

wishful thinking on my part l may get some one like that to try out my suicide doors[dr

but, the pic did attract attention

Later

 

[skull]

luck

lf it weren't for bud luck

so if you order these, make sure you get the right Ball-Joint

the new arms take there moog ball joints and a stock one won't bolt in, they took care of me and are shipping them out, just charged me for the Ball-Joints not the shipping,

nice guys at the Performance Bodies place.

well..next week for the A-arm install, Wednesday the new parts arrive...0H WELL, l still can work on the back half, shock configuration and sway bar. lots to do to keep me busy till then.

Later

 

[sgtpontiac]

Yep...always something you can do when you're waiting...

Murphy's law on the ball joints....I hate that...lol...

 

[skull]

behind

Murphy's law on the ball joints....I hate that...lol...

the hurrier l go, the behinder l get

Later

 

[skull]

rear springs

the "new" rear leaf springs lined up the rear-end right where it belong and the drive shaft will bolt right in and work [cl

next, the rear shock mounts not sure how to connect them yet, the way they were attached on the old rear-end had the tires rubbing the shock housing to the point where it bent one and defentially to close to the wheels[S

Later